I was driving my truck and turned a corner then herd a loud clank and had no go. I took off the diff. cover and found two very busted up gears which I think are spiders. It would be more cost effective to find a different axle right? I don't want to buy a whole new axle if the gears are cheap to replace which I highly doubt. Do any 14 bolt axles bolt directly in or do they all need spring pads and stuff relocated? Thanks for any and all help, this really sucks.
CK5
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Spider gears?
- Thread starter 82_k5
- Start date
3/4-ton 14 bolts are a direct fit. You just need a special U-joint to connect your driveshaft to the 14-bolt's yoke. 
1987Blazer
1/2 ton status
I just went through this with my K5. I put a 14 bolt rear axle under it. It bolted right in. I have a couple of problems to fix I have a 4" lift blocks in the rear. I need blocks that angle the rear axle up more. The angle at the yoke is not right. Also need to figure out how to get the parking brake to work. the cables are all different.
I don't know what rear end you have. Mine had the gov lock and was told you can only get the gears for GM and they are expensive.
I don't know what rear end you have. Mine had the gov lock and was told you can only get the gears for GM and they are expensive.
scrappy88
1/2 ton status
82_k5 said:
Spider gears new are ~$25 each if you want to bother replacing them. A 14bff will probably have 8 lug wheels so think about that. You'd have to do an 8 lug conversion up front to get everything to match up. If you do get a 14bolt, if you find one from a 3/4 ton 4x4 from 1973-1983 it should bolt right up including the e-brake cables (conversion u-joint will be required though). A 14bsf 6 lug might be your best bet if you can get one cheap.
The same thing happened to me this friday, blew up my spider gears.. I will just install a powertrax lockright....
For me that´s cheaper and faster. (I live in sweden) I found a set of axles (10b front 14bsf rear) for ~600$ but then i need to get new wheels and do the swap.
The lockright will cost me ~300$ and all I have to do is to remove the broken spidergears and install the locker.
(and also I´ve heard that a 12b with locker is almost as strong as a 14bsf (not 14bff))
just my .02$
For me that´s cheaper and faster. (I live in sweden) I found a set of axles (10b front 14bsf rear) for ~600$ but then i need to get new wheels and do the swap.
The lockright will cost me ~300$ and all I have to do is to remove the broken spidergears and install the locker.
(and also I´ve heard that a 12b with locker is almost as strong as a 14bsf (not 14bff))
just my .02$
pretty wide variety will come with 6 lug. This would be the 14SF though. Still a major upgrade from the 10/12 bolt.
Look at the '88+ C/K trucks. IIRC, it's the heavy halfs and light 3/4 tons that got them. The one I've got *supposedly* came out of a 1997 Yukon.
If you see a 3/4 ton with 6 lugs, unless it's been swapped, it's a 14SF.
There are 3 different widths.
There is a post here that I started, think the title contains "14SF" if you want to search for it.
Look at the '88+ C/K trucks. IIRC, it's the heavy halfs and light 3/4 tons that got them. The one I've got *supposedly* came out of a 1997 Yukon.
If you see a 3/4 ton with 6 lugs, unless it's been swapped, it's a 14SF.
There are 3 different widths.
There is a post here that I started, think the title contains "14SF" if you want to search for it.
I nabbed one out of an '89 extended cab. The front was too burned to tell if it had 1500 or 2500 logos on it originally. The gears, diff, axle shafts, and wheel bearings are all MUCH beefier than on a 10 bolt. The 10 bolt in the rear of our '94 Suburban was still working fine, but I upgraded to the 14 bolt SF since I found one that was the correct gear ratio.
