I've been fighting my stupid (D44) spindle trying to get the bearing off of the backside of it. What are some techniques anyone has used before? And are these lubed by differential fluid or are they supposed to be greased? My old ones are bone dry and rusted.
CK5
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spindle bearing
- Thread starter wkbrdrob
- Start date
The bearinf inside the spindle or the wheel bearings that the hub/rotor slide over? Both are greased or should be. I don't know how to get the one inside the spindle out. prolly just a punch. If the wheel bearing is stuck on the spindle try heating it up. Maybe some sort of a three prong puller would work. Just some ideas, but heat will prolly help the most.
yeah, I tried the punch for a while and finally gave up. Good call on the heat though, I'll give that a try and go back to the punch again. And it's the inner spindle bearing that the axle rides on, not the outer wheel bearing. Thanks
MattK
1/2 ton status
whenever you do get it off, be sure you take some fine grit sandpaper to the spindle. i had this same issue a while back...i didn't take the time to clean up the spindle and had to hassle with getting the bearing off AGAIN lol.
hack500
1/2 ton status
I used an air hammer with a chisel tip to split the thing then had to take it out in pieces. not very fun. another trick I heard is to weld something to get a slide hammer onto then start pulling.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Here is how I did it on my Jeep with a Dana 30 front. It should be very similar to the D44 or 10 bolt style spindle bearing.
Disassemble the axle down the the bare knuckle and remove the axleshaft. Reinstall the spindle BACKward on the studs. with the nose of the spindle going threw the hole in the knuckle. Put all the spindle nuts on so that they engage an equal amount of threads. THey don't have to be tight just equally engaged.
Use a slide hammer puller to get in behind the bearing and slide hammer that biatch out. I had to do this on both my CJ5's spindles. They PO liked to do river crossings and never greased those bearings so they were rusted and wasted. The technique worked great for me.
I rented the slide hammer from Checker. I used the little 3 jaw attachment. I had to play around with the jaws until they fit right but they got in there behind the bearing and made very short work of them.
Harley
Disassemble the axle down the the bare knuckle and remove the axleshaft. Reinstall the spindle BACKward on the studs. with the nose of the spindle going threw the hole in the knuckle. Put all the spindle nuts on so that they engage an equal amount of threads. THey don't have to be tight just equally engaged.
Use a slide hammer puller to get in behind the bearing and slide hammer that biatch out. I had to do this on both my CJ5's spindles. They PO liked to do river crossings and never greased those bearings so they were rusted and wasted. The technique worked great for me.
I rented the slide hammer from Checker. I used the little 3 jaw attachment. I had to play around with the jaws until they fit right but they got in there behind the bearing and made very short work of them.
Harley
fwc
Registered Member
I found that it was even more fun getting the new bearing in without damaging it... good luck!
well I couldn't get the 3-arm puller to work quite right so I took got all of the roller bearings out flipped it over and was able to pound it our from the other side. Taking out the bearings let the race deform/behave the way I wanted it to!
fwc said:
I don't suppose you have the part number handy for these bearings?
Rick
rick88blaze said:I don't suppose you have the part number handy for these bearings?
Rick
Napa PN is BK1 and it a kit with the spindle bearing axle seals, etc. 16 or 17 bucks per side I think...
And it looks like a Torrington? bearing PN B-2110
If memory serves, the bearing by itself is like 12 or 15 bucks and the whole kit is 16 or 17.
fwc
Registered Member
rick88blaze said:I don't suppose you have the part number handy for these bearings?
Rick
SBK-1 (spindle bearing kit) is the standard part number for Corp 10 Bolt fronts, may also work for D44 but I am not sure.
It is real easy to dent or deform the new cage during install. After you install the new bearing be sure to stick a finger in there and make sure the rollers still spin. Lube the thing up well cause you dont want to have to deal with it again for a long time
crash81
1/2 ton status
in the future if you take a piece of 1/2" keystock and about 1" from one end of it grind a 1/8" to 1/4" out of it about 1" long where it will drop in behind the old bearing better it will pop them right out with no problem. i made this homemade bearing punch years ago and been using it every since with no problems.
Dudley
Dudley
Thanks!! I was planning on changing mine this spring sometime.
Rick
I was planning on changing mine this spring sometime.Rick
I use my mig welder,run a bead around the inside of the bearing & then turn the spindle upside-down bearing usually falls right out.(the heat from the weld makes the bearing cage shrink)
If you don't have a mig you can use a half round cape chisel to split the cage,that works pretty good too
If you don't have a mig you can use a half round cape chisel to split the cage,that works pretty good too
well I finally finished reassembling my front axle. And I put the spindles in the oven at 300 for about 30 minutes and the new bearings in the freezer. I tapped in the new bearing with a soft hammer to get is started and used a 32mm socket to press the new bearing back in.
