Spindle nut torque

[Blazin'4x4]

Does every one follow chiltons recommendations on torque specs for the spindle nut on a dana 60? The hole tightening to 50lbs then back off 90* then to 35lbs and back off again 3/8 of a turn before the lock ring?

Or does something else work better?

 

[sandawgk5]

Does every one follow chiltons recommendations on torque specs for the spindle nut on a dana 60? The hole tightening to 50lbs then back off 90* then to 35lbs and back off again 3/8 of a turn before the lock ring?

Or does something else work better?

The way the MANUAL says to do it always worked for me

Dik

 

[cegusman]

I always go.

torque to 50 while spinning the wheel
back off 1/4 turn
retorque to 35 while spinning the wheel.
insert lock ring
torque outer nut to 110-120 ft lbs

 

[Blazin'4x4]

You dont back it off again the 3/8 turn after the 35lbs?

 

[cegusman]

nope never have. I would think that would leave to much slop/play in the wheel bearings.

 

[Blazin'4x4]

Yeah I agree. ive done both so far and havent had problems

 

[4X4HIGH]

I follow the manual but it's just like any other wheel bearing, too tight = not good, too loose = not good. You need to find the "Sweet spot"

 

[Mud Rat 12]

I always do them by feel. Never had a problem yet.

 

[MNorby]

I tighten the nut as tight as I can till doesn't really turn anymore to be sure the bears are all they way in then back off till loose then tighten back up till a slight slight drag on the wheel then lock.

 

[POWERMAD]

I follow the manual but it's just like any other wheel bearing, too tight = not good, too loose = not good. You need to find the "Sweet spot"

Always follow the manual. Doing it the way the manual says will give between .003"- .005" endplay

After about 10,000 or so wheel bearings I always use a torque wrench.

Crank it down while spinning to seat the bearings.
Loosen and pop it at 50, keep spinning the hub and popping it. It will prolly go a few times.
Loosen 90 deg and hand tighten till lock lines up.

I do all double nut hubs this way. Tractor trailer, pick up etc.
Always gives the 3-5 specs.

The new style hubs are somewhat easier, just pop the nut at 780 ft lbs and put the cover on.

 

[lectric80]

I have read the manuals, but I still do it the way that dad taught, by feel. Never had one back off or fail, but I may just be lucky. Only been doing them since I was 12, dad always checked the outer nut to ensure it was tight. I did mine on the Blazer a few months ago, and will be regreasing them pretty soon, but it will be a new axle at that point.

 

[POWERMAD]

I have too much $$ wrapped up in torque wrenches not to use them.

I make my $$ wrenching.

My comebacks are in the 1% range.

Here's a tale of woe.

In 02 I caught a nasty bug and still went to work AFU
The last job I did before I called it quits ( 2 weeks out) was a steer axle bearing job.

I got back to work and was called into the office.
The guy was in OK in a blizzard when the wheel I was working on took off and he wrecked.
No biggie just an 80,000 lb tractor trailer.

Always use a torque wrench.

 

[Mike D]

From my vast and half-vast experience with wheel bearings, I believe that spinning the wheel ( not fast ) to seat and center the bearings on the race allowes the nut to correctly tighten ( by feel ).
The next time the wheels are suspended ( at oil change time ) I check them for bearing looseness (wobble).