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Spindle wear

jfabert

jfabert

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I am getting ready to replace both spindles on my 10 bolt. I noticed some noises coming from the front end and decided to check the bearings and re pack them. The inner bearing on the passenger side looks to have been spinning and wore a grove into the spindle. The drivers side didn't have as much wear but i think it was doing the same thing. What would cause this and how can I prevent it? This time Im using Timken bearings and new spindles. When I replaced the bearings last time I torqued everything to spec from my manual. Could it have just been a combo of older spindles with a little wear and cheaper Napa bearings? I don't want to do this again sense its costing right at $500.00 to fix. Thanx.
 
it's an age and wear thing. If the hubs are original, you might look into replacing them as well, as the races could shift inside enough to cause what you're experiencing. seems like a lot of money into a 10 bolt though.. i'd bandaid it with new bearings and the worst spindle replaced, and then build a d60...
 
How bad is the groove? To my understanding is that if they're old and rusty they will lock up and the spindle side of the bearing may spin.
The spindle side of the bearing is the non roller side. Unless the spindle is seriously that grooved, I'd buy bearings that come with new races, replace the races in the HUB and call it a day.

In FL it wasn't uncommon for me to do repack on front wheel bearings but having to RnR instead due to them being so rusted you can barely spin them by hand. Mudding is real popular and the dirt/water destroys the seals allowing contamination.
 
There are several causes.
The age and wear one is the most common. Next, is probably a seized bearing causing it to spin on the spindle.
Note: The bearing that seized might not have been the one you took off. The PO might have replaced one that froze and spun without fixing the spindle, which caused the new one to spin.

Once in a blue moon, you might get a bearing out of spec which will cause it.
And, like they said, sometimes the race will spin in the hub when one of those happens.
If its a tight fit, you should be alright.

On the other one, try a new bearing by its self. It should be a really snug fit, and be tight when it gets on.
But, you should be able to pull it off by hand, just tight.

If its loose, and you want to get a few more miles out of it, you can use a sharp punch to punch little dents where the bearing fits.
Some people use chisels, but I have found a sharp cone shaped punch does best.

Just some random dents all the way around, will leave little rings of raised metal around the dent.
That metal has to go somewhere when it makes a dent.
Just don't do too many and have to press the bearing on.

I have seen trucks run for years like that, but it is strictly a bandaid. You need to replace the spindle or the whole axle if you are going that way.

And it does not help a deep groove.
 
The groove is the width of the bearing and deep enough its loose on the spindle where you can rock it side to side. Also where the back of the inner bearing sits on the spindle under the seal it pretty rough and galled. The bearings and races look good other than a little darkening on the rollers. I am replacing the races again this time too and I'll check to see if they have moved at all. Also how hot can you expect the hubs to get in normal city driving? I thought I have read somewhere they shouldn't get hot enough that you cant keep your hand on them cause after the 10 mile drive home they are hot enough I can only handle a couple seconds of my hand being on them. (It may not help I'm a pansy when it comes to pain)
 
Well, most of the time, they will not be warm much at all. But, you have to be careful. The brakes are right there, and the heat from just a little hard braking will work its way down to the hub and make you think you have a bearing problem.

But unless you have a dragging caliper, or have recently done some panic braking, they should never be anywhere close to being too hot to touch.

Even with other parts of your body........

And if its grooved even half as much as you say, its toast.

And, to tell the truth, if they are that hot in that short a distance, I would take a hard look at the rotors if its disks.
If they look funny, like they are blue, or discolored, I would suspect a master cylinder problem.
Unless its just one side, then I would suspect a sticking caliper.
 
I have had a rear brake problem in this truck from day one. They don't work very well at all and almost all the braking is in the front. Much more than normal. I just got a set of ORD extended lines im going to put in when I do the front end. I have replaced everything in the braking system except for the hard lines and the flex lines. Hopefully Its rubber line with a loose flap that is not letting the fluid get there as soon as it should. I will check the front rotors for any abnormal things while I have them off.
 
Well the rubber flap problem will work both ways. It might be holding fluid to the calipers and making the front brakes drag.

That could cause you to think the rears are bad, because the fronts kick in so quick.
 
Bring the spindles to a general machinist. Have him build up some braze or weld on the spindle where its grooved and lathe it back down to spec.

Honestly idk why 2 spindles and bearings is coming out to $500. You could buy 3 used front complete axles for $500.
 
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