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Spooled 10b. Any experience???

Clod_King

Clod_King

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I want to know if anyone has ever spooled there 10b, or even licoln locked it. Either way it is the same thing essentially.

Preferably rear axle.

I do not plan on doing this operation, but I am getting a plan, and I need to know the outcome.

Also, has anyone ever broken the carrier before, and what size tire were you using, and whether it was locked or not.

Sorry this is a top secret project, so no questions about the application, besides the fact that it will be under a suburban.
 
Subs are heavy. I wouldn't run a locked 10B under a sub in the rear ever, and maybe in the front if you've got 33's or 35's and Chromo's, or don't mind changing shafts and joints. Under a sub, you're going to want a FF in the rear, and a 60 up front if you're locked and/or run big tires.

If you spool/ weld the front, you probably want a twin stick or other way to get 2WD low range.
 
I have 10bolts under both ends of my 84 blazer, both lincoln locked. I'm runing 36x12.50 TSL, and I have broke one front axle shaft and one pinion shaft in the rear. Also I have 3.42 gears. Its been like this for over 2 years. Hope this is helpful!
 
I am currently running a 3/4 ton setup. I have a 14b FF in the rear and a 10 bolt up front.

I am NOT considering swappng out the 14b for a 10b, so don't worry about that. It would be ludicrous if I even considered that.

I am planning to go D60 up front, and some 37or 39" tires. I am currently running 35's right now...

Hey Elevator Man, have you not ruined the carriers yet?? or have you seen any damage to them yet?? Premature wear, or weird noises??

As I said top secret plan, I'll let you know what goes down when everything is finished....
 
So would you say the Axle shaft is stronger then the carrier then??

Also has anyone ever broken the short axle shaft before??

One last one:

Would an after market spool be stonger then an OEM open carrier??
 
Clod_King said:
So would you say the Axle shaft is stronger then the carrier then??

Also has anyone ever broken the short axle shaft before??

One last one:

Would an after market spool be stonger then an OEM open carrier??
Click to expand...

ive broken all of em at one point or another. i was runnin 10 bolt front, 4.56's, lockright(lunchbox), and 37" ssr's. the locker, carrier, and gears never flinched, but i burnt through shafts.

a spool will be a lot stronger than the factory carrier, but from my experience i would not be worried about the carrier as much as the shafts/joints. i do hear plenty about the carriers letting go, too, but i never had that happen. all i know is that i am relieved to have stepped up to a 60.
 
I,ve never had any problems out of the carriers. (yet) I don't know as far as wear, (I'm kind of a don't look at it till it breaks kinda guy). I want to step up to a 14bff/D60 set up but its really hard to find a D60 here in AR. I don't want to find one thats a good deal. I would like to step up to at least a 14bff rear. I would if I could find some 8 lug front rotors. sorry to ramble I'm pretty board tonight.
 
I run a d44 welded in the front and wheel with a guy that also has a d44 welded. its not a 10b but they are comparable in strength. I havent had mine for long and havent broke anything with my 35s but my friend has broken numerous axle shafts. most of them because of u-joint failure but never a carrier. if its in the front and you plan on getting a d60 then I say weld it and run it till it breaks then replace with the 60.
 
Are 10b carriers the same front and rear??

How much smaller in size is a 10b housing compared to a 14b housing?? you know what nevermind, I am going to get off my butt and go outside and measure right now.

And how much would a 10 bolt/D44 rear end go for these days??
 
A spooled or welded carrier can in some cases be easier on parts because it doesn't lock and unlock and shock load the parts. Problem with a spool up front is that things never unlock, making turning difficult. If you have a locker up front and twin stick, you can go to RWD Low and unlock the front end, releasing the locker and allowing your tires to move independently of each other in tight turns.

When my 10b exploded, in my case a rear, it stripped the teeth off the ring gear and pinion. The center pin snapped too, but stayed in place enough that I didn't lose an axle.
 
hmmmm..... good info there. But these 10b/D44 carriers are going in the rear of the burb.

And say One would like to build a pumpkin. Would One be safe with using 1/2" thick mild steel?? Or would One want to go bigger.
 
ALL TEN BOLT 8.5 CARRIERS WILL INTERCHANGE. SOME HAD 28 SPLINES (1/2 TON), AND SOME WITH 30 SPLINES (3/4 TON). I HAVE AN 86 K10 WITH 10 BOLT FRONT AND 12 BOLT REAR, BOTH WELDED WITH 4.88 GEARS. SO FAR I'VE SHEARED THE EARS OFF 1 LONG SHAFT, AND 1 SHORT SHAFT. WHEN I BROKE THE FIRST ONE, I HAD AN OPEN CARRIER, BUT I AM RUNNING 36X12.50 TSLs. YOU'RE ALMOST BETTER OFF RUNNING WEAK U-JOINTS IF YOU'RE GOING TO RUN STOCK SHAFTS SO THEY'LL BE THE WEAK LINK, SAVING YOU MONEY ON STOCK SHAFTS IF YOU CATCH THE BREAKAGE EARLY ENOUGH. IF YOU'RE RUNNING 35s OR HIGHER, THEY WILL BREAK SOONER OR LATER. ALSO, WELDING THE FRONT DIFF TAKES AWAY FROM TURNING RADIUS IN 4X, BUT ON THE LIGHTER SIDE, WHEN NOTHING IS BREAKING, IT WORKS DAMN GOOD, AND IS CHEAP.
 
28 and 30 sp 10b stuff was all half ton and/or 3/4 ton...they used 28 sp until the mid/late 80s i believe and went to 30 sp then...my halfton 10bs were both 30 spline in my 91.
 
well as I said before. the 10 bolts are going into my suburan, but how is a secret. I will NOT be running them in the conventional way.

Now for a side note. When linking the suspension, should you attach the bottom links to underside of the axle tube.... or the top??
 
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