A Lock-right is a true locker and works very similarily to a Detroit. I went from a front posi/limited slip to a Lock-right front and noticed very little difference in turning ability on the trail (the rear axle was welded for both of these front setups). The Lock-right durability seems decent and mine has held up well with the 38's and has survived two stubshaft and 1 inner shaft break. My buddy's Lock-right stripped trying to turn 42's under a 7,000 lb. truck, but it did hold up for several years of abuse when that truck had 38's.
I'm not a big fan of the "unlock one front hub" for driving on slick roads with a front spool. I know off-road that driving with one hub locked and any type of front locker causes some weird handling characteristics and is NOT the same as having an open diff.
With any type of true locker (Detroit, Lock-right) in the front, whenever you have the t-case in 2wd the locker will be unlocked (no torque input) and will behave basically the same as an open diff. I run flanges and never have any problem driving in 2wd on the street to and from the different trails. With a front spool the two front tires will always be locked together and cause scrubbing with either the hubs locked or flanges. The main reason I bring this up is that on trucks with locking front hubs I have always kept them locked in during bad winter weather so I could simply shift the t-case into and out of 4wd as needed.