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Spray on Bedliner in Interior

87GreyGhost

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Has anyone just sprayed the whole floor pan and not replaced the carpet or insulation. My whole passenger side is shot, so I was thinking after I replaced the pan , of just spraying in some type of liner and leaving it. It's not my daily drive, but i go un roadtrips, so I was wondering about sound and heat...

K
 
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road noise will be worse than w/ carpet (no insulation) and floors will be warmer in certain areas. But much easier to clean out.
 
Used roll on stuff from Wal-Mart $45 a gallon.:waytogo: Works good if prep work done right.:grind: Had a few spots peel up. oops little sand an recoat all good. 3 gallons did all interior.
 
Yeah, I figured it would a little louder and warmer... I was thinking of just leaving carpert and insulation over the transfer and tranny part of the floor pan.. Might look like **** though
 
Yea little louder. Heat not a problem.

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I'm bedlining my entire int also. I bought the rubber floor mat that covers the entire floor. It's 1/8" and tough as hell. My rig is not even close to being done, but I'm thinking it will help a lot with noise and heat while still staying with the easy clean out idea.
 
I used about 1 gallon of Herculiner in the back of my 87' grey Suburban.

I love it. Removed the rear seat, tore up carpeting. It's a great mod. I can toss my Hi-Lift in and it will not chip the Herculiner. About 4 years and going strong. No peeling, no regrets.

I have not done this to the front passenger area's, for the carpet is good and see no need yet. But it would work well.
 
yep, I have Herc on my whole interior, its good stuff. Of course, noise/heat aren't especially relevant when your rig has no doors, top, roof, tailgate etc...

j
 
how did you apply it and would it turn out ok if I used it on my doors, lower dash and headliner area?
 
I used a roller for 98% of it... other 2% was 1" wide brush dabbing. The steel part of doors can be done, I did do it on the bottom of my old doors. Not sure it would work on the plastic parts though... I wouldn't recommend it. Lower dash would be fine too. By "headliner area" I assume you mean the sheetmetal above the headliner? Sure. Most important thing with herculiner is doing the right prep. Believe me, its worth the extra time/effort to do it right. Don't skimp on the prep... do as much as you think you need, then knock out a few extra hours of scuffing/cleaning. You won't regret it.

j
 
I used bedliner on the bottom of the doors and it works great. If you are just looking to get the appreance of bedline on some parts you can use a texture spray by someone like SEM. I have some and you can use it on plastic parts and things like bumper covers.
 
jekbrown said:
I used a roller for 98% of it... other 2% was 1" wide brush dabbing. The steel part of doors can be done, I did do it on the bottom of my old doors. Not sure it would work on the plastic parts though... I wouldn't recommend it. Lower dash would be fine too. By "headliner area" I assume you mean the sheetmetal above the headliner? Sure. Most important thing with herculiner is doing the right prep. Believe me, its worth the extra time/effort to do it right. Don't skimp on the prep... do as much as you think you need, then knock out a few extra hours of scuffing/cleaning. You won't regret it.

j

Is the look clean enough to do on the exterior? I am thinking of doing this from the "seam" down on my burb. You know sand, clean, tape and roll.

My biggest concern is dripping I want it to look pretty clean, not perfect just good (Kinda like my rig).

If anybody has pics of roller applied on exterior I would apreciate pics.

Thanks,
Jess
 
mine looks the same as cb77's interior. love my herculiner, jus gatta use elbo grease to get the new shine. it took me 1.25 gallons to do 2 nice coats
 
Dont do it, its a beotch to clean on the ouside IMO. You have to scrub it and it also fades with the sun bad. Looks sort of GHEY IMO. I have in on the inside though and love it. On my exterior, I bought some military paint spray bombs in Earth Brown and sprayed the whole truck. I have extra cans to touch it up after trail rides, or if it starts to flake any where. Also, like when I converted to a truck tailgate, its easy to match the color.
 
yeah, I wouldn't recommend herc for exterior stuff personally... for that, go with line-x.

j
 
I haven't done it my self, but I hear that you can buy the duplicolor bedliner and thin it out for a smoother look. But you still have the problem of fading. If you are looking for a ruff and tuff finish maybe conside pounding on some chip guarding on the outside of the truck and then putting an single staged enamel over it.
 
jekbrown said:
yeah, I wouldn't recommend herc for exterior stuff personally... for that, go with line-x.

j

I used to have a nice (show quality) paint job on my rig. I don't care about super bling anymore but I want it to look nice (gotta take the wife out sometimes:wink1:). I am thinking of doing this to stop the rock chips I keep getting. I run alot of dirt roads and I like mud so it happens alot. I have a power washer so I don't think washing it would be a pain.

I would prefer not to have a super rough finish. How smooth is line-x and is fading and issue? If I am serious about this should I just prep it and take it to a place that sprays truck beds?

atlantak-5er you have any pics of yours?
 
87GreyGhost said:
Has anyone just sprayed the whole floor pan and not replaced the carpet or insulation. My whole passenger side is shot, so I was thinking after I replaced the pan , of just spraying in some type of liner and leaving it. It's not my daily drive, but i go un roadtrips, so I was wondering about sound and heat...

K

I had my '80s interior Rhino lined in '98, so here is some input after 8 years.

The reason I had it done is I like to leave the top off all summer. In the South that means keeping it covered/ not driving it when it rains if you have a full carpet interior, which I did. I went with Rhino because Line-X would not tell me how thick they would spray it. The Rhino is about a 1/4" thick up front and more like an 1/8" in back. I had it done in red and the total was just under $500.

First the thick and thin area's spray patterns do not match. They didn't bother to tell me about this before I had it done and I was pissed about it for about 6 months. After talking to some people, it had more to do with the shop who did it that the product. So if you want it thick check references.

Next is the durability issue. Honestly, there have not been ANY! This stuff has stayed stuck and hasn't shown any wear. The color has faded from the sun just like they told me it would. If you take top off, I would not use red or any other high pigment color, unless you are not concerned with fading.

Concerning heat and sound. It is louder and hotter than with full pad & carpet, BUT it is much better than bare steel or the full rubber mat (I've done both). Noise; With a top & doors on you can still talk comfortably. Heat; I used to drive barefoot, now I need sandals to be comfortable in the summer. With Top-Siders on you can't tell much of a difference.

Make sure you prep it however they tell you to. Take out EVERYTHING, seats, side panels, console, seat belts, you name it. Put bolts back in all the holes you want to use. I put carb studs on the drivers seat side and set the seat on them to drive it up there, then took my seat out.

I kept the carpet for years after I had it done thinking I might want to put it back in, but I never did. I finally just threw it away. Also, remember that you will not be able to hide things like speaker wire under the carpet anymore, so buy some Adel wire clamps to keep things neat. The one thing I would do differently if I were to do it again is remove the trans tunnel and have it done separately. It was a bitch to get the bolts holding it in dug back out. If your K5 does not have the removable trans tunnel this is not really an issue for you.

Any more "?"s
 
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