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Spraying on a clear coat

  • Thread starter **DONOTDELETE**
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**DONOTDELETE**

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I painted my truck about a year ago and sanded it down to get rid of the imperfections, but never got around to putting on a clear coat. The paint is still in excellent shape. I went down to my local auto paint supply store and they said that spraying on a clear coat after the base has fully cured will more than likely lead to peeling because the clear coat needs to chemically bond to the base coat. How much truth is there to that? I thought that if it was cleaned properly then the clear coat would adhere properly. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
See if you can dig up the "info sheet" on the paint. It usually states how long you have to topcoat. Other than that, if no one here chimes in check this forum. Autobody
 
If you wetsand the truck before you clearcoat, you'll most likely be ok barring some odd incompatibility with the two. You usually have to wetsand the base coat after 48 hours of curing if you plan to clear coat it, unless you clear coat within that time frame.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
If you wetsand the truck before you clearcoat, you'll most likely be ok barring some odd incompatibility with the two. You usually have to wetsand the base coat after 48 hours of curing if you plan to clear coat it, unless you clear coat within that time frame.


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I agree, the only thing is if it is a metalic base you are sanding away some of the dimension/metalic edge.
 
I thought the clear coat had to be sprayed 36-48 hours after the base coat. I can see it starting to peel, you have wax, grease and dirt in the paint... No matter what you clean it with before hand I dont think it would hold. Best bet would be to use a wax clear coat like the line that McGuires has. Its a paint cleaner, wax, then a buff in a three part system and then keep it waxed regularly. you should be good to go! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
<font color="green"> It's not going to be as strong as if you had done it right away, but if you prepare the surface really well then you should be OK. Usually when I sprayed a base/clear paintjob I would put the last coat of color on a bit dry to help the clear bite into the base. Wetsanding it won't give it as much bite but it will certainly help. The main thing is to make sure it's really really clean. Make sure you invest in tack rags for right before you shoot the clear. If you start wiping it down with a tack rag and it comes away with more than a real slight haze of dirt then it isn't clean enough. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif </font color>
 
I have done clear before on old paint, as long as you wet sand it to remove the top layer which contains most of the dirt and it will give it something to grip on to.
And then clean it with a special degreaser (ask for that at a paint shop)
Remember, shops will do that when they fix one side of the car and they have to make blend in with the old, they wetsand the surrounding and clean it then shoot it.
 
I painted a buddys car once left it in the garage for 3 weeks before we painted the clear on it used the compatiable clear and it started pealing in about 8 months. Call the manufacturer of the paint. We found out with some systems you can do this with others you cannot. The only sure way of knowing this is calling the manufacturer of the paint. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
Thanks for the replies. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I should have stated this in the beginning but I didn't want to confuse people, but I don't think I can call the paint manufacture since it really isn't paint. It's actually been powdercoated, so I don't know if anyone has sprayed a clear coat over sanded powder coating before. I would assume the same process and rules would apply though. I guess if it does start to peel I can always sand down that spot and reapply it. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Are you sure it was powdercoated?
Some paints are sprayed and then baked in an oven to cure them, that is not powdercoating.
Powdercoating is done with powder that is help by electrostatic and baked at much higher temps to melt and adhere to the metal.
Just some info.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Yes I'm sure. I took all the body parts to the powder coater myself. He even explained the process and took me on a tour of his shop. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif You might wanna mention these things to begin with in the future. Most of us here know the difference between paint and powder coating! Since powder coating is not even remotely similar to painting I wouldn't "assume the same process and rules would apply". Contact your powder coater and see what he says.....just don't tell him it's paint......
 
<font color="green"> Why do you even want to clear over powdercoating? Powdercoating is ultra-durable, so I just don't see the point. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif </font color>
 
Because I sanded it to remove the orange peel which removed some of the shine. I would just like to get some of the luster back.
 
<font color="green"> Why not just buff out what you have already? Seems like that might be an easier way to go. </font color>
 
I've used rubbing compound and Carnuba (sp) wax which makes it look good but that seems to wear off over time. I'm to the point where I'd just like to put a clear on it and forget about it, if you know what I mean.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I've used rubbing compound and Carnuba (sp) wax which makes it look good but that seems to wear off over time.

[/ QUOTE ] Powdercoat can be wet sanded and buffed just like a single stage paint. Start with 1200 grit then move up to 1500 grit and then finally 200. Then hit it with a buffer and POLISHING compound. You should have a good shine for quite some time. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Powercoat......why Clear isn't that good enough....
 
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