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spring bushing removal

cybrfire

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The only way I've ever done it, got to be quick with the torch on the last step.

 
I use a 4" piece of 2" pipe, heavy washer that will just fit the bushing outer, a piece of all thread and an impact wrench. Takes 'em right out with no smoke and smell.

Sounds like a good way to do it. I like the smell of burning rubber and fire is fun.:D
 
Yes.. I know I'm digging up an ancient post, but that's what the good ole "search" will do sometimes!

Can anybody else get this video to work? Wonder if its just my annoyingly crappy connection here at work at the moment.

I'm trying to get bushings removed from some brand new springs I got from ORD and I started with a press, and decided to stop with the pressure I was putting on didn't feel safe with that bulky monstrosity hanging out of the press and what not.

Then I went to my air saw with 32 tooth blade and it hardly even began to cut into the inner sleeve at all. I'm assuming that little gem is hardened?

As last resort I'm thinking I'll throw in the towel now and torch em out... What the heck sounds like fun anyway and I need an excuse to drag out my torch!
 
The video doesn't work for me. I see it and the play button but it doesn't play, it acts like a pic.

Fwiw, viewing via iphone4
 
The video doesn't work for me either but torching the bushing has always been the solution. The steel sleeve usually cuts fairly easy with a fresh blade however I've never cut a sleeve from an ORD spring.
 
I had to use a cold chisel after burning the rubber part and inner sleeve out with a propane torch one day when my oxy-acetalyne torch ran out of oxogen..once the rubber part was burnt enough to push it thru,the outer steel shell was pretty easily collapsed with the chisel enough to pound it out..

I've had mixed results using the threaded rod and big socket-small socket method,some pop right out,others wouldn't budge even with an air impact wrench (which usually works best)...

Getting new bushing IN isn't fun either much of the time..I think if I ever need new bushings again I'd use the poly ones that just pop in with no pressing or beating,after having a steel jacketed stock one get pretty beat up before I finally got it in the spring eye..
 
I had to use a cold chisel after burning the rubber part and inner sleeve out with a propane torch one day when my oxy-acetalyne torch ran out of oxogen..once the rubber part was burnt enough to push it thru,the outer steel shell was pretty easily collapsed with the chisel enough to pound it out..

I've had mixed results using the threaded rod and big socket-small socket method,some pop right out,others wouldn't budge even with an air impact wrench (which usually works best)...

Getting new bushing IN isn't fun either much of the time..I think if I ever need new bushings again I'd use the poly ones that just pop in with no pressing or beating,after having a steel jacketed stock one get pretty beat up before I finally got it in the spring eye..

Well, actually I'm removing the ones in the brand new rear springs because I've got the replacement poly bushing set from ORD to install! :saweet: Lucky for me the front spring set has no bushings in it at all. (Ironic that something like this would normally piss a guy off good huh?)

Ohh Kert... Any chance you still have that vid. and would like to re-post? :popcorn:
 
I build a fire in the back yard because it give me an excuse to do so (screw calling in a controlled burn, it's only rubber). Get the end just hot enough to push the rubber out. Then use my sawsall to cut the outer, knock one corner in with a chisel, put on vise grips twist, pull done. Nothing to it.

I don't have a cutting torch, and the ones I'm removing always have 20+ years of rust holding them in. I've never been fortunate enough to remove new one, you have to tell me what that's like. Ha Ha Ha
 
i use a knife to cut it flush then a dull drill bit to drill a few holes around it. then a visegrip and a pry bar and if its still not moving i'll use the threaded rod technic. back to the vice grip. threaded rod for in stall
 
I did a set of 52s tonight and did the drill bit, hammer, pry, drill, swear on the first one. I have no gas in my torch so I found some 1/2" bolts and welded them to the bushing sleeves. Then I flipped it over and welded inside the other end pig the sleeve. Got it plenty hot then put the impact on the bolt head and spin the sleeve. After that they punched out pretty easy. I did the other three in the time it took for the first one.
 
Dang Kurt I never knew you were so metal!:saweet::saweet::saweet:

Slip knot, Static-x, disturbed, Five finger death punch, some of my favorites.

Only downside to the torch is the smoke it makes. If you're in a small shop or trying to keep the doors closed because of sub zero temps outside, the torch may not be the way to go.
 
i use a knife to cut it flush then a dull drill bit to drill a few holes around it. then a visegrip and a pry bar and if its still not moving i'll use the threaded rod technic. back to the vice grip. threaded rod for in stall

Ahh, I'd actually considered doing this myself. I thought I'd read another thread about it once, but couldn't find it with search.


did a set of old crusty 2" rears with a ball joint press kit .

Well that's an awesome idea! I think I'm gonna try this since I have a balljoint press kit. Like Kert says, other alternatives can be more attractive for those of us who don't wanna stink up the house and let the -20 degree air into the garage!

Dang Kurt I never knew you were so metal!:saweet::saweet::saweet:

Slip knot, Static-x, disturbed, Five finger death punch, some of my favorites.



Heck yea - I noticed the music in the background and was like oh yea - awesome choice for music in general, but with a torch blazing in hand hacking stuff up hell yea!! :saweet::saweet:

Thanks everyone for the ideas.
 

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