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Spring lengths? Ideal?

Miller75

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I have read many different post on what is ideal each to have different opinions...

With only using factory springs for the front and back...

Is 52's up front w/B52 mounts and 56's in the back w/shackle flip the ideal setup?

If so what years/models should one keep an eye open for?
 
Honestly 64s are much better suited for the back. I find that the heavy rate you need to retain to carry a load doesnt allow for anywhere near as much flex with 56s and 64s would.
 
To get the correct answer we need to know what you plan on using this truck for. What type of terrain do you use it in? How many street miles does it see? Size tire you are or want to run?

Lots of people get wrapped up in the 52/56/64 swaps, but they are just trying to lift a weekend warrior/daily driver type rig they might tow with.

The 52's and 56's up front are an easy cheap way to get 4-5" of lift, but also require crossover steering, longer shocks, taller shock towers, long brake lines, custom driveshaft to actually get the benefit they provide. The downside of them is they are very soft and driving on the street can be a little sketchy,

52's, 56's and 64's in the rear with a shakle flip is also an easy way to lift the rear and get lots of suspension travel. The one downside of the rear is the longer springs really require some sort of anti wrap bar to prevent turning the springs into a W shape. This has to be built properly to retain the benefit of long flexy springs.

IMO 52's up front and 56's in the rear will travel more than enough. Before I installed bumpstops and I destroyed a set of front and rear springs I could max a 15" travel shock out in both directions.

Honestly for about 80% of this site how the average guys are using their rigs a good set of BDS or Tuff Country springs up front and a shackle flip in the rear DIY, ORD, SKY will suit you just fine. A decent set of shocks and some brake lines. No driveshaft mods are usually necessary for a 4" lift, but some people do run into some vibes in the rear.

Just my .02 :waytogo:
 
The 52/56 thing has been hashed out many times... Never ran 64s, currently running 52/56 and love it...

I'll tell you this, a buddy is doing the 52/56 right now and I've been over there helping a bit... He had a 52 pack out of a 1/2 ton truck, he was running 6" springs front and rear before... So, he didn't have the stock 52 pack from the back of his Blazer... When he set the weight of the rig on the 52s they went negative... He ended up finding another 52 pack that came from a Blazer and it sat fine... The only thing we could come up with was the trucks get overloaded a lot through out the years, where as a Blazer is less likely to see that kind of weight in the rear... The truck springs had been abused and were to soft... That's something that I hadn't thought of before... Pretty obvious, but never dawned on either of us until then...
 
Luey is exactly right too! I forgot to mention that in my post. Both times I have swapped out the springs I jacked up overflexing them I ended up with different ride heights.

I love my 52/56 setup too, but if I had to drive my truck on the street more than just here and there I would probably look into a different setup. Trail only so I only care how it performs, but I can tell you on the street around corners it rolls.. a LOT!
 
Luey is exactly right too! I forgot to mention that in my post. Both times I have swapped out the springs I jacked up overflexing them I ended up with different ride heights.

I love my 52/56 setup too, but if I had to drive my truck on the street more than just here and there I would probably look into a different setup. Trail only so I only care how it performs, but I can tell you on the street around corners it rolls.. a LOT!

That body roll means your having fun :woot:

People always give me sketchy looks if i take a turn to fast haha
 
I have read many different post on what is ideal each to have different opinions...

With only using factory springs for the front and back...

Is 52's up front w/B52 mounts and 56's in the back w/shackle flip the ideal setup?

If so what years/models should one keep an eye open for?

trail only or street time?

do NOT fall into the 52/56 front trap so many espouse..... my rig is pretty excessive, yet I know it's purpose, thus I'm running stock length fronts.. 4" TC EZ's..
 
trail only or street time?

do NOT fall into the 52/56 front trap so many espouse..... my rig is pretty excessive, yet I know it's purpose, thus I'm running stock length fronts.. 4" TC EZ's..


How well have those worked on the trail for you???
 
whatever dude... just cuz my rig isn't out doesn't mean I haven't ridden in other trucks... there's plenty of rigs that ramp ok with that spring properly set up...
 
whatever dude... just cuz my rig isn't out doesn't mean I haven't ridden in other trucks... there's plenty of rigs that ramp ok with that spring properly set up...


I'm just messing with ya...:D

There's so many things that can be done to these trucks... My rig was built the way it is from riding with others... I parked it for a year before I started building and learned a lot just watching everyone else... Saw things that worked and things that didn't... Then applied what I thought performed the best...

I have others starting to copy mine now...

Nothing will ever be the end all be all... I already want to go with links...
 
you know as well as I do about the noob, bigger, better, best line of thinking.... many fall into it from motors to suspension, etc... improvement is always sought, it's natural...... I just try to remind people it isn't always the best path...

he comes back with I'll just drive it down the street to the trail, I'll be right on the flex like a mofo train.... ;)

heck, your an old guy like me :whistle: :haha:, remember back in the day when every 18 yr old hotrodder wanted a tunnel ram cuz of the way it looked? pssst, check the rpm range, ya sure ya wanna run that on the street? :haha:
 
Want and nead....:D

I`d love to have a d60 ,14bolt, 4 link, bb, nv 4500 ,doublers ect.:rolleyes:
I need that stuff, just can`t afford it.
 
To get the correct answer we need to know what you plan on using this truck for. What type of terrain do you use it in? How many street miles does it see? Size tire you are or want to run?

Lots of people get wrapped up in the 52/56/64 swaps, but they are just trying to lift a weekend warrior/daily driver type rig they might tow with.

The 52's and 56's up front are an easy cheap way to get 4-5" of lift, but also require crossover steering, longer shocks, taller shock towers, long brake lines, custom driveshaft to actually get the benefit they provide. The downside of them is they are very soft and driving on the street can be a little sketchy,

52's, 56's and 64's in the rear with a shakle flip is also an easy way to lift the rear and get lots of suspension travel. The one downside of the rear is the longer springs really require some sort of anti wrap bar to prevent turning the springs into a W shape. This has to be built properly to retain the benefit of long flexy springs.

IMO 52's up front and 56's in the rear will travel more than enough. Before I installed bumpstops and I destroyed a set of front and rear springs I could max a 15" travel shock out in both directions.

Honestly for about 80% of this site how the average guys are using their rigs a good set of BDS or Tuff Country springs up front and a shackle flip in the rear DIY, ORD, SKY will suit you just fine. A decent set of shocks and some brake lines. No driveshaft mods are usually necessary for a 4" lift, but some people do run into some vibes in the rear.

Just my .02

Thanks that's a good bit of advice

The truck already has a 4" lift under it but its rough country and its bouncy/rough as hell. This is why I'm entertaining the idea and trying to make since of the mass information out there.

you know as well as I do about the noob, bigger, better, best line of thinking.... many fall into it from motors to suspension, etc... improvement is always sought, it's natural...... I just try to remind people it isn't always the best path...

True I'm not looking to go bigger or to be the best. Looking to make choices that work.

he comes back with I'll just drive it down the street to the trail, I'll be right on the flex like a mofo train....

Bubba says woooooo woooooooo Its all about the flow!!!
images


and now for something completely different!:popcorn:

My goals I think are justified/within reason I'm looking to make the truck preform better overall for trails and mud but not for the road...Granted I will drive it sometimes into town every once in a while but how the truck preform on the street is not a concern.
 
There are quite a few things you can do with stock length, springs to make them flex better, proper shock length, moving the upper shackle hanger for a better angle, using good shocks, proper bumpstop placement, starting with a quality spring, good bushings.

I think every one was surprised how much flex zims truck (iron maiden) is going to have in the front and that was by a simple change in position of the front upper shackle hanger.

52/56s are great ways to get flex, I have 56s up front and 63s in the rear, but I wheel mostly in rocks, big technical boulders for the most part. For a do it all rig stock length springs with a couple tweeks will surprise alot of folks
 
There are quite a few things you can do with stock length, springs to make them flex better, proper shock length, moving the upper shackle hanger for a better angle, using good shocks, proper bumpstop placement, starting with a quality spring, good bushings.

I think every one was surprised how much flex zims truck (iron maiden) is going to have in the front and that was by a simple change in position of the front upper shackle hanger.

52/56s are great ways to get flex, I have 56s up front and 63s in the rear, but I wheel mostly in rocks, big technical boulders for the most part. For a do it all rig stock length springs with a couple tweeks will surprise alot of folks

I read through the iron maiden 180+ build thread and I didn't see any information about relocating parts of the drive train.

Did I miss something?:confused:
 
yeah, recently.. Dave moved the FUSH kit for the front shackles.. somebody'll link to it...
 
I read through the iron maiden 180+ build thread and I didn't see any information about relocating parts of the drive train.

Did I miss something?:confused:
The rear axle is relocated back 4" using the offset of the 56" springs, stock is 26" forward and 30" to the rear, I turned them around so the 30" is to the front. gain of 4"
The front axle will be moved forward about 1-1.5" using a DIY4X D60 set of spring plates with the slot cut into them for movement.
Total gain of 5-5.5", making the wheelbase 111 give or take alittle.
The shackle angle was increased by relocation of the Upper shackle mounts. I used DIY4X mounts, and moved them forward about 1.5" to increase the angle of the shackle. This allows for the shackle to actually compress when it encounters a bump, and also allows for better droop, compared to the stock location which kept the shackle angle almost straight up and down.


this is a pic of before the upper pivot moved:

Ironmaiden153.jpg



And the move:

Ironmaiden159.jpg


Ironmaiden163.jpg


Ironmaiden164.jpg



Here is a better idea of how they sit now:

Ironmaiden264.jpg


And flexed out, but limited by 4.5" shackles...6" DIY's on the way!

Ironmaiden279.jpg



So those are 48" Superlifts in the front, and 56" K20's in the rear, minus a few leaves.

check post 1498 in my thread for what I've done, with the help of many experienced guys here.
 
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