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Spring pack rebuilding

Muddytazz

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For those of you that have rebuilt your spring packs, what do you use when you put the leaf clamps back on? What I've got circled in red...

springs1.jpg
 
i don't really like the clamp style, I prefer the style with the bolt. The last set I took apart like those, I spread the clamp style apart until I could get all the leafs seperated. Once you're at that point you could bend the ears straight on the clamps, drill a hole in each ear and run a bolt.

Rene
 
Yeah I know what your saying. Your saying to straighten out the "C" look to them and turn them into a "U". But, there is a rivot that hold the clamp into the leafs. After you remove said rivot, what do you use to reassemble them to hold said clamp or do you just use the "U" shaped one and use side clamping force to the clamp in its place?
 
I"ve seen clamps like those at the 'Zone for around $15 a pair. How are you rebuilding them? Is there teflon pieces you are replacing? Also a good coating of rattle can would be in order I reckin'. Are you also adding any more leaves? Sorry for all the questions, just really interested. I might just do an add a leaf suspension to clear my 35's I just got. So I"m paying close attention:eek1: to your lead. Take lots of pics too. Thanks.
 
Muddytazz said:
After you remove said rivot,

don't remove the rivet. :doah:

I took my rear springs apart, sanded everything down, painted them with a high gloss spray paint, coated them with dry lube from PB'laster and reassembled them. I never removed the rivet or the clamp. you can just bend the clamp out of the way. its just mild steel. I leave mine open in a U shape.
 
I don't remove the rivet...mostly because I couldn't come up with a good reason to do so.

As for paint, use an epoxy enamel and do two or three thin coats. Regular rattle can will last a couple of weeks at best. I used epoxy enamel on my old 57" F-150 springs and after four years they were the same looking. Hit em with some water and all you saw was a newish looking set of flat black springs.

I found a local spring place (dealt mostly with medium and heavy truck suspension) that had the plastic anti friction tips for my springs. I seem to recall spending about 50 cents each.

They also had new center bolts for pretty cheap. Interesting side note, the Ford springs i rebuilt came with 7/16" center bolts instead of the 3/8" bolts found on the Chevy springs.

Rene
 
Muddytazz said:
Yeah I know what your saying. Your saying to straighten out the "C" look to them and turn them into a "U". But, there is a rivot that hold the clamp into the leafs. After you remove said rivot, what do you use to reassemble them to hold said clamp or do you just use the "U" shaped one and use side clamping force to the clamp in its place?

I use two 1/4" steel plates with holes drilled on either side, then grade 8 bolt hardware to clamp them shut. Re-usable and never failed me.
 
littlejimmythatcould said:
The dry lube is like a graphite spray instead of Teflon pads?

yeah except it doesn't have graphite in it. I can't find it on their website but I know they make it because I have a can and the hardware store where I bought it still has more. its really slippery. I stacked all the leaves together and they wouldn't stay lined up without assistance. I chose dry lube because it would not cling to dirt. It sprays on and leaves a white film. dirt doesn't stick to my springs.
 
Sorry to hijack, but what's the max lift you can get with stacking springs in an add a leaf and which springs out of a stock pack do you use?
 
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