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Spring Perches

babyburb

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I'm waiting on a few parts to finish my front lift install and started thinking more about my pinion angle. Would it be better in the long run to order some new spring perches from Kert and reset them instead of shimming it?

If so do I just cut off the old ones and grind them smooth and start over? I did not measure any angles before I started so planning on setting pinion and shaft directly up and dropping it down 2* or so.

Searching and reading up on the problem it sounds that since I am running a 203 and plan on driving on the raod I need to watch for wandering the road but will need to compensate the angle somehow.

I don't know, I will go back to thinking it over.:thinking:

BTW, I am installing a Tuff Country 4" HD springs, 1" zero rate, 7" HD shackles, and new shackle hangers with new bushings.
 
New perches won't hurt, but it depends on your torch skill I guess. I've cut and reused my perches, though one of them had me a little worried. I just filled in with stick to fix my worries. The only thing you'll gain with new perches is fresh, clean metal.
 
Ok, so I started thinking about cutting the old ones off and rewelding them back on but I thought of something. How is that going to work with the Ubolt that clamps around the differential pumkin on the D44? Will the spring perch be able to be moved?
 
There are ways to correct pinion angle on the front axle. Unfortunately they are never as fun. The cast in perch is harder to deal with. Shimming is probably your best bet.
 
So back to the shim delima. I did not realize that I should have measured my angle before unbolting everything. So how will I figure out what degree of shims I need? Will it be better to get some stock length shackle instead of the 3" longer ones. My UNckle could fab some 4" long one at his work if that is the way to go?

Suggestions please?
 
I have seen several pics on CK5 where someone flipped the Front upper shackle hanger to the front of the frame and moved the fixed (or stationary??) hanger to the back. Would this in turn, turn my diff back toward tha original angle like my rear with a shackle flip?

How would this affect the driveability of the burb? or is this just strickly for off road rock crawlers?

I figura I am already pulling off my factory FUSH's, might as well flop'em if this would fix it.

Thanks
 
I have seen several pics on CK5 where someone flipped the Front upper shackle hanger to the front of the frame and moved the fixed (or stationary??) hanger to the back. Would this in turn, turn my diff back toward tha original angle like my rear with a shackle flip?

this is how jeeps are set up from the factory and i don't like it. when you're trying to crawl over a rock or log or something, the shackles can get in the way and get damaged. first problem. second problem is that as the spring compresses, it will push the shackle and axle forward. it MAY help with traction to some degree, but more than that it just feels like it's fighting you, IMO. in the same situation, a blazer's front axle will shift slightly back, allowing it to "flow" with the terrain. i've never really had a traction issue on the front, since the beast is so heavy, so i don't see much benefit to a front-shackle setup.

if you want to get a little bit of lift while you correct pinion angle, maybe you could remove your front fixed hangers and remount then with spacers or fab up a longer set. it would rotate the pinion up and give approximately 1/2" lift for every 1" of spacer.
 
this is how jeeps are set up from the factory and i don't like it. when you're trying to crawl over a rock or log or something, the shackles can get in the way and get damaged. first problem. second problem is that as the spring compresses, it will push the shackle and axle forward. it MAY help with traction to some degree, but more than that it just feels like it's fighting you, IMO. in the same situation, a blazer's front axle will shift slightly back, allowing it to "flow" with the terrain. i've never really had a traction issue on the front, since the beast is so heavy, so i don't see much benefit to a front-shackle setup.

if you want to get a little bit of lift while you correct pinion angle, maybe you could remove your front fixed hangers and remount then with spacers or fab up a longer set. it would rotate the pinion up and give approximately 1/2" lift for every 1" of spacer.


I haven't thought about that. I might go ahead and go back to the stock size 4" shackles but make them thicker for beef and space the front down an inch or 2". I'll see if I (really my uncle) can fab them up this weekend.

Thanks
 
i haven't looked at mine in a really long time, so i can't really say how much hassle that would be or how much extra stress (from extra leverage) it would apply, but it seems doable. anything is with proper planning.
 

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