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Spring rate table vs. real world functionality...

Avery4jc

Avery4jc

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I've got this on-going list of things to do on my truck and just because I'm 25 hours from home doesn't mean I'm going to stop :)

The plan is since I'll be working here and already have a little money saved up I'm going to be ordering parts and have them shipped to the house in Cali...then when I get a month off for Christmas I can spend the first week back getting them all installed so that I can spend the last 3 weeks playing with it in the sand ;)


Ok so here is the topic at hand tonight...my suspension. As of now it pretty much sucks due to stiff springs, worn out bushings and terrible shackle angles...

The plan is to order up a Shackle flip from Kert and run 6" springs out back for a total of 10" of lift...

Up front I'll be running 8" springs, a zero rate and extended shackles from Hill 4 Wheel Drive for a total of a hair over 10"...


So my question is what 6" lift spring is everyone running and how do they like it? I'd like to shoot somewhere in between where I am now and an all out flex monster....

http://coloradok5.com/springratetable.shtml
 
That table is 8 years old, I'd bet that some of those numbers have changed.

BDS and Tuff Country have the lowest spring rates. Alcan or Deaver will make springs with whatever rate you want, for a little more $$$.
 
Yeah I noticed it was an older table as well as its all 4" lifts...I'm looking at 6" lifts and I bet they're different but that table is what got me thinking about shoping companies b/c of their different spring rates...
 
Avery4jc said:
Yeah I noticed it was an older table as well as its all 4" lifts...I'm looking at 6" lifts and I bet they're different but that table is what got me thinking about shoping companies b/c of their different spring rates...
Click to expand...

If you call/e-mail the companies, they will probably tell you.
 
Thats a good idea...I guess people just aren't talkative about this subject :)

I can sit here and read spring rates all day or talk to companies but I was just hoping other guys running 6" lift springs would have some first hand experience with them on a K10/K5/etc...
 
When I was calling around for spring rates I was surprised at how high the spring rates were for the BDS, esp after everyone said they were soft. Make sure you call them all. It's very interesting. I can't remember if skyjacker or superlift had the softest rear springs, but they were about 100lbs lighter than anyone else, but that was for 4" (they were also about $200 more than everyone else). Good luck. Do your homework, and you won't wish you had later. BTW, FYI my diy4x shackle flip with the short shackles left me back end high with 4" TC EZ front springs.
 
mabye im the only one here but the words "flex monster" and 10 inches of lift dont go togher in the combo you are putting togher...

take all that money you are thining about spending by crossover...then get some lift...why do you need 10 inches anyway...use the K.I.S.S THERORY...

mabye a set of 4 inch tc 52s then a zero rate,and shackles then mabye 10...if you want a "flex monster"


you asked for opinions so there is mine...spend your money on crossover
 
twoslow4fiveo I'm doing x-over too but only after I track down a D60...

I must have sounded confusing b/c what I meant was I don't need a flex monster...something in between my super stiff current 8" Superlift springs and something really flexy like the BDS's...

I figure anything will be better since I'm technically dropping down on my lift achieved from the springs... sure I'll be at 10" of lift (2" higher than I am now) but instead of 8" lift springs I'm going with 6" lift springs out back...
 
why are you gonna wait to do crossover..i just bought all my crossover stuff and i might have 200 bucks in the stuff for the 44...if i want to take it out and put a 60 in i have almost everything there except a arm...in other words i could prolly sell the knuckle and arm on here for enough to buy a 60 arm...

i hear alot of people say they are gonna wait for crossover..the facts are that your riding around on 8 inches of lift and want more with a stock push/pull setup...i think its ill advised but thats just me....i dont even like push/pull on a 4 inch lift i cant imagine it on 10 inches of lift...1 word SCARY!!
 
I run 6" superlift rear springs on my truck. Its hard to tell how they ride as the front are so stiff (8" superlift). I used to run a DIY4X shackle flip in the rear also and it was waaaaaaay to high, not to mention i had a terrible shackle angle. I wanted it lower and didnt want to spend the money on new springs so I got a 2" shackle flip from ORD and moved the hanger forward 2" so I had a decent shackle angle. Either get tuff country or bds springs for the rear.
 
Remember that the advertised rates are static rates. Leaf springs can have a lot of friction, so the effective rate can be much higher than what is advertised. Static rate should give a decent indication of off-road "flex", but the dynamic rate determines the ride quality. If you get good springs with teflon pads on each leaf, the dynamic rate shouldn't be any more than 50% higher than static. Friction in the spring bushings, sway bar bushings and shocks all add to the dynamic rate.
 
Blue85 said:
Remember that the advertised rates are static rates. Leaf springs can have a lot of friction, so the effective rate can be much higher than what is advertised. Static rate should give a decent indication of off-road "flex", but the dynamic rate determines the ride quality. If you get good springs with teflon pads on each leaf, the dynamic rate shouldn't be any more than 50% higher than static. Friction in the spring bushings, sway bar bushings and shocks all add to the dynamic rate.
Click to expand...
good info right there!!
 
I agree with most of what everyone has said so far. You don't need 10" of lift to run 38s. Lower it a little. At the most 8" of lift. For the rear get a set of lifted 56" springs they are going to flex better than the stock 52s
 
Here are my thoughts Avery. If you only plan on running sand, you dont need a super flexy susp or a dana 60. If you start running trails/rocks then maaaybe get a 60 but its not that important.

I say keep it simple. Keep the 10 bolt and run er till she breaks. I dont see how you could snap it in the dunes. Esp since all you ran was the 35's last time.

I for one dont agree with the common view around here that you gotta have a 60 or you cant wheel. For a lot of folks, it just aint needed.

I would say do the crossover first because thats a must for the lift you have.
Then I would order lockers because that will get you further than flexy springs and an open D60/14bFF will.
Then if you want to change the lift, go for it but I agree with what was said above, flex and 10inches of lift dont go together at all.

Lastly, save some money for gas and beer and come wheel with us around San Marcos cause you are welcome here anytime.
 
Thaks for all the input guys...

twoslo the reason I wasn't worried about doing x-over on my 10b was because the truck is just sitting back at home...so the plan is to get all the parts ordered/picked up so when I get back for Christmas I can do it all at once...
Oh also where did you get your x-over parts for around $200? Between a 2wd sector shaft, draglink, TRE's, knuckle (I can machine it myself so I just need the knuckle) and the steering arm for the knuckle I figured I'd be around $500...



Blue85 Thats something I wasn't thinking about...I'll call a couple companies and see what they say...

Dustin I ran the 38.5's while I was in Pismo...they did great with the weight of the truck alone but as soon as I tried to help pull people I just dug...not really a big issue since I don't plan on pulling anything but at the same time Chris and Garry's truck ran 33" BFG AT's and they put my truck to shame...

Ok guys I'm going to kick around a few ideas and post back...
Maybe stuff like OBA, Disc brakes out back, drop from my 4.10's to some 5.13's, and a locker out back should be done first...then get started on re-working the suspension...
 
No I said I probably should have ran my 35's...I have a set of 35" BFG AT's that I run on the street but I took my 38.5's instead...like I said they did fine but I would have probably done just as well with my 35's...

To tell ya' the truth I probably shouldn't try to compare tires until I get some lockers in b/c as of now with my open front and rear diffs its hit and miss depending on which tire got power...
 
about 5" of lift and 44s here. Those almost-stock tires ya got don't need no stinkin 10" of lift. If you want it for other reasons, thats cool... but you don't need it to fit da rubber.

j
 
Avery4jc said:
No I said I probably should have ran my 35's...I have a set of 35" BFG AT's that I run on the street but I took my 38.5's instead...like I said they did fine but I would have probably done just as well with my 35's...

To tell ya' the truth I probably shouldn't try to compare tires until I get some lockers in b/c as of now with my open front and rear diffs its hit and miss depending on which tire got power...
Click to expand...
next time run the 38.5s backwards :wink1:
 
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