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Springs or blocks

Scuba Steve

Scuba Steve

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Joined
Jul 17, 2002
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Location
Fort Bragg, NC
I am going to be getting a Tuff Country 4" lift. Should I go with spring or blocks for the rear? I was thinking about putting a shackle flip in the rear, but dont want to go through with all the work of removing the rivets right now. Also do I need to have the drive shaft lengthened? I plan on putting in a 14bolt ff in the future, if I can find a good deal on one. At the same time I would get a new 1 ton shaft from high angle. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I had blocks originally but I switched to rough country springs when the blocks started to turn and I got paranoid.
 
I have blocks in the rear for the same reason as you, planning on a shackle flip in the future. I don't mind them that much because I'm not doing any hard core wheeling. I do get axle-wrap if I try wheeling in 2-hi though. As for the drive shafts, I didn't have to lengthen mine at all. I did however have to drop my t-case (on the factory sleeves) and clearance grind my front shaft. I have no vibes at all, even at 85 mph (75 mph true wheel speed) and that's with unbalanced bias ply super swampers!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I'm running rough country springs up front because I chose not to run a sway bar and I drive on the street a lot. I figured the high rate of the springs will keep the truck from swaying around corners and it works perfectly /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'd get the blocks for now and use the extra money you save on the springs for the shackle flip. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
there are two companies that make shackle flips out there ORD and Echobit might want to check out Echobit too thiers is a little different design and may work for what you want....Jason
 
Steve, what are you going to use the truck for? Blocks are the cheapest route and good for a street truck with a little off roading, a shackle flip will provide a softer ride and more off road flex and lift springs would be best for deep mud or heavy loads in the rear but generally ride kind of harsh.
 
It's more an issue of cost vs performance. Any one of the above could be used in Mud quite effectively. I usually consider 4-8" lift springs as a less expensive aproach to mud bogging since they are stiff and resist axle wrap, articulation is not as important. Once you get up around 12" of spring lift, you start to loose the side to side axle locating properties of the spring and items like a panhard bar and wrap bars become important again so blocks or a flip could be more effective for less money. While blocks or a flip could be used, they generally are used with the softer stock spring which will wrap when locked in the mud. A set of wrap bars would solve that, allow for rock crawling and soft street driving, it all comes down to your intended use and available funds.
 
I went from stock springs and blocks to 4" tuff country springs. I honestly cannot tell the difference on the pavement. Haven't had it offroad yet.
 
Cool info. I think I will go with springs. I dont mind harsh rides, it is a truck. Plus the rear of the truck bottoms out whenever I go over a speed bump so I think putting block on will just make the problem worse. The blazers had 52" springs in the rear, right?
 
Why would you think that springs are better for mud bogging? I've ran your shackle flip on my truck since you first developed it and I'd take it over springs any day!
 
Yeah, you've had a set on your truck almost as long as I have had mine. I love my flip brackets with the 57's and wrap control, they do just about everything imaginable and do it well. I'm still fighting the front end more than anything, especially since I tubed out the front clip and lost so much weight - its really stiff now with the 4" Ranchos.

Mud trucks usually have a lot of lift (12" plus) which results in a high center of gravity. Running a lot of flex can make for some crazy cornering so straight stiff lift springs are great. It's not until you start getting into double duty as something other than a dedicated mud truck that a shackle flip makes more sense. Like I said above, either one can perform the job just fine, it all a matter of price vs performance. I'd rather run a soft shackle flipped 4" lift spring to get 8"-10" of lift and lock it down with wrap bars and a rear stabilizer - but thats just me because I'd want to drive it to the mud drags without bouncing down the highway.
 
i had bought my '88 k5 with a 4" lift on it.
im almost positive it was just an add a leaf and not a new pack. does anyone know how many leafs are supposed to be in the stock leaf pack?
 
I completely agree with you Mike. My truck was and still is a trail truck. It is not built for mud bogging or it'd be FAR different than it is (it'd be an auto tranny/stall/high RPM motor/way lower gears/skinny tires type rig).

I wouldn't trade my shackle flip with stock springs for much of anything, except if it was something softer.

Now that you mention it, yes, you're right, I bought one of the first sets of 'flips you made (I think I was one of the first 10 people to buy one)

If anybody is considering this product, GO FOR IT! One of the few things sold around here that I'd definitely recommend.

As for mud trucks having 12" plus of lift, that's stupid. There really isn't any reason for anything above 12" unless you want a road queen that sees mud sometimes. I run mine at 6" and 3" body and while I'd consider 8" springs, I really think I"m going to stay at 6" and cut my fenders for any future tire.
 
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