CK5
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Square body wiper systems SUCK! Can it be fixed?

I've never looked into it, relays offer less resistance than the switches?

Well, a new, quality switch and relay should both have negligible resistance, but I think crusty old trucks are a different story and also tend to have undersized wiring and such. I bet you'd find a good bit of resistance from the battery through the rocker switch to the tailgate. Relays made a huge difference to my headlights, though I never specifically measured the resistance through the pull knob and wiring.
 
Wiper powers is ignition hot at the motor anyways so you could easily run a hot battery feed directly from the battery through a relay using a the existing wiper power wire as the trigger and see if that helps.

Can’t hurt to try. Makes a shorter run, You still need to have a fused circuit to match the original amps with a new hot wire.

By design the ground is is how speed is controlled so your still limited thru the switch.
 
Someone needs to invent a 12V to 20V DC converter with at least a 5 amp output,that will speed up those lazy wipers..

Such a thing does exist, and this thread actually inspired me to do a few hours of research last night.

In the CB radio hobby, "volting" is when you run components at around 18VDC in order to get more output, usually competition radios and amps. That's where I know the concept from. What I'm looking into is how to make a simple and small circuit for the wiper motor. The "motor mauls" of the CB world are overkill for such a low amperage application, but I'm using the concept to make a circuit. Hell I'd actually build one and try it if I can be sure I'm doing it right.
 
Such a thing does exist, and this thread actually inspired me to do a few hours of research last night.

In the CB radio hobby, "volting" is when you run components at around 18VDC in order to get more output, usually competition radios and amps. That's where I know the concept from. What I'm looking into is how to make a simple and small circuit for the wiper motor. The "motor mauls" of the CB world are overkill for such a low amperage application, but I'm using the concept to make a circuit. Hell I'd actually build one and try it if I can be sure I'm doing it right.

Step up/step down converters are all over ebay for cheap, but I am not sure what the cost is vs the load handling ability, and the ones I've seen are too exposed to be durable underhood IMO.
 
They have battery's that go in the stock location with a 12v+ term for starting and such, and a 16v+ term for accessories.

They're semi popular in either the stereo world, or racing, can't remember which
 
They have battery's that go in the stock location with a 12v+ term for starting and such, and a 16v+ term for accessories.

They're semi popular in either the stereo world, or racing, can't remember which

That's backwards of the old timers using 8V batteries for speeding up a 6V starter (and feeding the coil through a resister so it didn't burn out).
 
Maybe that's it... Dunno... Here's one from jegs though. Must have been the racing world

Screenshot_20180403-162812.png
 
How do you wire the motor to toggle switch. And also the washer. Just single speed. I have the same in the pic with three plugs.
 
Tested with truck at idle, only accessory on was wipers, low speed. Dry windshield.

Battery 14.4V
Alternator 14.7V
Firewall Junction Block 14.4V
Wiper Motor 14-14.2V (fluctuated slightly)
These numbers are much higher than I expected. But where is the negative probe during these tests? If that's really motor + to motor-, then the thing isn't drawing much current, but it has a 25A fuse.

A neat experiment would be to swap the hi and low wires at the motor (should be as easy as repinning the connector), so all the normal "mist" and delay use the higher-power winding of the motor. This could burn out the delay module - I've never done any current measurements or such - but it's so easy to bypass the delay module for the experiment. We're talking about more power to the motor, but more power is just a wiring change away....
 
The battery and alternator measurements were taken with the same ground at the core support. The wiper motor and junction block measurements were both using the master cylinder as the ground.

Did we determine the motor is grounded through the case? My internet is so slow right now I can't go back to look at the wiring diagram that was provided. I can use alternative locations to measure, but I just probed until I found constant voltage at one terminal on the three wire plug (which did not match up to the diagram as far as I could tell).
 
Wiper motors were one item we often had trouble testing for function at the junkyard--once it was out of the vehicle,9 times out of 10 our attempts to test out all the speeds and other functions ended up letting the smoke out..:doah:..
It appeared many are wired in such a manner the switch controls the ground to the motor's windings internally to get different speeds and we could never figure out how the motor case is also grounded where it bolts up AND the ground is somehow diverted inside the motor to give the speeds,delay,park,etc..
 
Wipers did look like they moved faster for the half second it shows it.
 

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