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Square Driveshaft Tech Needed

nvrenuf

nvrenuf

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I know the basic principle but I still have questions...


Typically, what size tubing is used?

Are there preferred yoke part numbers?

You do install a grease fitting and keep it lubed, right?

Are they noisy?

When assembling, you heat the square tubing and beat down around the yoke for a good "fit", right?

Pics??

Thanks :thumb:
 
nvrenuf said:
I know the basic principle but I still have questions...


Typically, what size tubing is used?

Are there preferred yoke part numbers?

You do install a grease fitting and keep it lubed, right?

Are they noisy?

When assembling, you heat the square tubing and beat down around the yoke for a good "fit", right?

Pics??

Thanks :thumb:
Click to expand...

Don't have one but I can answer some of these. Most guys either do or recommend installing a grease fitting.

You cut the yoke to a square shape then weld it on. Beating it around the yoke would be very imprecise(not that cutting a square from a round piece couldn't be a problem).
 
You use 2 1/2" 1/4" wall and then 2" in 1/4" wall. Grind a notch in it for the weld in the female tube.

Installing a grease fitting is a waste, they will jsut get broken off.

As for yokes, you can either buy some that fit over the tube or grind the corners of the tube so that a smaller yoke can be used. Or you can just butt weld them.
 
On the yoke that has the 2 inch, you can take some (like a few inches) of the 2.5 and put it over both the yoke and the 2 inch.
 
Mk I made a square tube shaft for my truck and helped a friend make one for his yota. I tried to find a PTO splined shaft that looked big enough to use as a driveshaft and had enough travel but I came up empty handed, and I even have a TSC print catalog. I'm sure there is a long and heavy enough piece out there somewhere but I havent found it yet.

As far as square tubes go, as said above start with 1 stock driveshaft, a couple feet of 2 1/2" 3/16 wall square tube, and a couple feet of 2" 1/4 wall square tube. Cut the CV end of the stock shaft about 3-4" away from the CV part, so you leave a litte nub of the stock tube. This is critical strength wise so you can drill some holes in the sides of the square shaft and plug weld it to the stub of factory tube, and it also helps align the CV and square tube. Weld around the base where the square tube meets the CV and then fill in the plug welds. Make sure you get good penetration on the CV part.

Now down to the pinion end. This part f'ing sucks lol. You slide the yoke off the shaft and start grinding it into a square. I hope you have some time, some patience and a non-harbor freight grinder. You will need time because the yoke measures a little over 2" round in stock form, and you need to grind it down into a slightly sub-1 1/2" square to fit inside the 2" square tube. I think the metal the yoke is made out of is hardened or something because it took me about 2 hours to grind it down enough, then I hammered it in for a "pressed" fit. I again plug welded it on each side of the tube and then burned it together around the base.

It clanks at certain speeds but doesnt seem to vibrate any more than anything else on the truck. I smeared grease on it when I installed it but havent bothered to put any zirks in it yet. I probably wont cause I think they'll get broken off and its easy enough to grease by taking it apart, plus grease guns are my sworn enemy in life.
 
I run one in the front of my toy, and like it so much that im going to build one for the rear soon. They can be noisy at times, but as long as their is tension in the drivetrain they will stay quiet. When running in 2wd with the hubs locked or drive flanges they can get noisy, but nothing to bad. Don't pound it on, you want to grind the yokes to fit, that way you have a better chance of getting it square. Heres a few shots of mine.

P8250023.jpg


P8250025.jpg


P8250034.jpg
 
There damn near unbreakable, and you can have over 12" of slip.

Not to mention it costs about $50 to make one.
 
opfor2 said:
And what are the advantages of having a square drive shaft over the normal round tube type?
Click to expand...

Thanks, that is the same stupid question I was afraid to ask, now I know. I would imagine they wouldn't work very well for a DD.
 
85mudblazin said:
There damn near unbreakable, and you can have over 12" of slip.

Not to mention it costs about $50 to make one.
Click to expand...
If they're so damn near unbreakable, how come all the driveshaft guys don't make them to sell?
 
thatK30guy said:
If they're so damn near unbreakable, how come all the driveshaft guys don't make them to sell?
Click to expand...

It would be hard to market something you canmake yourself for less than $50 with an angle grinder. They don't balance either so there is not a huge market for them I suppose.
 
For a DD or a truck that still sees street driving, i would only put a square shaft up front because of not being able to balance. But for a full trail rig, square front and rear. Driveshaft shops do them, just not your normal driveshaft. I know of atleast one shop here that builds them. But for $50 in materials, its easily done yourself and someone who can weld.
 
opfor2 said:
And what are the advantages of having a square drive shaft over the normal round tube type?
Click to expand...

1) The square tube is cheep!! labor is free!!
2) The square tube won't twist like round shafts ( When they get dented)
 
Citizen Rider said:
For a DD or a truck that still sees street driving, i would only put a square shaft up front because of not being able to balance. But for a full trail rig, square front and rear. Driveshaft shops do them, just not your normal driveshaft. I know of atleast one shop here that builds them. But for $50 in materials, its easily done yourself and someone who can weld.
Click to expand...


how come you can't balance them?
 
just too much slop, they wobble a little bit, not to mention getting a square tube perfectly centered on the yoke is a chore and a half. My eyeball got me a shaft that doesn't vibrate until 25mph unloaded (2wd, hubs locked in or 4wd hubs out) or 35 mph loaded (4wd, hubs locked in). $38, including a s44-1310 conversion joint. I used the flange style CV for parts, hacked it up into just a flange mounted single ujoint
 
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