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square driveshafts

thnaks ... are there bigger tolerances with making a hsaft out of square tubing rather than having slip yokes and such??
 
85mudblazin said:
2.5"x.25" square, and the inner is 2"x.25" square.
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Same here. You'll have to grind the smaller tube to clear the seam on the inside of the larger tube.

The shaft has probably the same amount of slop in it, but in a square shaft, there are only 4 points of contact, which is why people worry about binding.
 
Yeah, as long as you have a balanced rear shaft, a part time transfer case, and lockout hubs you shouldn't have a problem. The shaft will still spin, but not fast enough to cause any vibrations in my experience.

What I am even talking about, at 70 I hit 4000 rpm's before I could hear the motor over the boggers...:doah:

I would recommend running a support rod from the side of the t-case to the bellhousing or frame though. I don't like the thought of my transmission spilling its guts.
 
cool :bow: :bow: :waytogo: :waytogo:

85gmcOD, sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack your thread, but doing only the front shaft might be a good way to test this square-tube shaft thing....for both of us. thanks for binging it up.:bow:
 
Phil, what's an M1009 again? Pickup or Blazer? I've got a 700R4/NP241 support rod in my garage that I was gonna lengthen and use with my current setup but I think I'll go with a round shaft this time around. It might work on different configurations but I'm not sure.
 
NP241's have two BIG bolts in the side of the case, I'm not sure about NP208's but they're easy to spot. In some applications, there's a rod that bolts to those bosses and to one of the bolts in the bellhousing. Perfect for a square front shaft because it braces the setup into a triangle.

You can see 'em in the upper left corner here:
DSC035602.jpg
 
I have had my truggy up to maybe 50mph (no speedo:D ), the front DS felt like it was about to blow up and hit me in the head but the rear was very smooth. If a square shaft is built correct and the yokes are on there straight and all I assume all you would have is a slight humm coming from it just because it isnt balanced.

The rearson my front shaft vibes so much is because of the Superflexx joint not really the square shafts its self.

It would be nice to have all nice round balanced shafts but your looking at $1500+
 
Ok, thanks. :bow: :bow:
So for the rest of us that don't have a dedicated wheeler, I'm understanding that the most we should do is maybe the front shaft and put in the rear shaft when at the trail?:confused:
 
filo said:
Ok, thanks. :bow: :bow:
So for the rest of us that don't have a dedicated wheeler, I'm understanding that the most we should do is maybe the front shaft and put in the rear shaft when at the trail?:confused:
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Sounds like a plan...just use your factory one for the highway and if you want an uber beefy rockproof one you could even use thick round tube since you've got a slipyoke on the back of your case. ;)
 
Has any of you guys ever taken them in and had somebody try to balance one? Might help. Guy may look at you and tell you your crazy but who knows. Could help.

My shaft outer is 2.5" x .3125 wall. Inner well, its solid and spline a long ways!
 
cybrfire said:
Has any of you guys ever taken them in and had somebody try to balance one? Might help. Guy may look at you and tell you your crazy but who knows. Could help.

My shaft outer is 2.5" x .3125 wall. Inner well, its solid and spline a long ways!
Click to expand...
Where did you get the male and female parts?? I assume the inner is splined full length besides the yoke??
 
This is what I'm gonna build with and I think it's what Kert's using.

Driveshaft "tractor spline" slip joint:
NeapCo.
Male PN 72-2231
Female PN 53-2415

attachment.php


If not...it's a useful set of part numbers anyways.
 
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