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Square Tube Driveshafts

So I know that St. Anthony is kind of forgotten about it seems.

I have had Horton in the air alot. Dozens of time in a day.

St. Anthony is steep. Jumping is not something always done on purpose. It's something you have to do to maintain momentum.

We rarely get pics cause we rarely stop and jumping is just something that happens.

If your running leaf springs you need a high quality driveshaft. Period end of story. You also need to know your clearances. High quality parts last. Driveshafts don't break unless they bind first.

Find out where your binding, problem solved!

It sucks to swallow the high dollar driveshaft pill. I didn't for several years. Since I have only me wearing out parts and not addressing them soon enough have been my only issues
 
I told Trent last year I've had the entire weight of my truck on both of my driveshafts. Have the Knicks in them for proof.Spend the money and get one that holds up. But sounds like you just need to rebuild the cv and you should be good. FYI as long as you keep the same trans config driveshaft length should be fairly close for the k5
 
jekquistk5 said:
I told Trent last year I've had the entire weight of my truck on both of my driveshafts. Have the Knicks in them for proof.Spend the money and get one that holds up. But sounds like you just need to rebuild the cv and you should be good. FYI as long as you keep the same trans config driveshaft length should be fairly close for the k5
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He dont know what he plans on for the K5 yet. He is thinking maybe the same th350 and np208. Also thinking about th400 to hold the hp he plans on putting in it with either a np208 or a scs case. Even if he uses the th350 and np208 the K5 is going to have completely different suspention, weather it be bigger springs or full 4 link.
 
Same gear ratios front and back??? For sure?
 
Yup, both 4.10 for sure.

And we always thought that when you linked a truck it made driveshafts even harder to get right???
 
Good grief no.

Linking makes the axle move in a very predictable path.

Leaf springs not as much. A Leaf spring is flexible therefore it can move forward and back. It has a shackle that depending on length and angle the arc can change widely with very little change from the shackle.

When linked your axle moves in a very predictable path. Because it has too. The links are a fixed distance.

Leaf springs are not a fixed distance.
 
I wouldn't jump with my square drive shaft.
It can bind somewhat when you step on it.
If it binds on landing, if will probably crack your transfercase and/or transmission housing :(
I would have one custom made.
 
Just to say the same thing a different way:
Putting power through a 4 spline shaft (square) makes them bind and then you ask it to slip and it's not going to be happy. There's a reason high power trucks are linked and often part of the suspension design is limiting driveshaft plunge so that it's not a pogo stick when it's transmitting torque. You also see a lot of trucks with carrier bearings so the carrier can move a little when the driveshaft won't plunge right.

Moral of the story is just what others have said, spend some good money and it'll stay with you. square stuff works OK for toyota powered rock crawlers but you'll break parts doing what you do. And links are definitely your friend!
 
Stephen said:
Just to say the same thing a different way:
Putting power through a 4 spline shaft (square) makes them bind and then you ask it to slip and it's not going to be happy. There's a reason high power trucks are linked and often part of the suspension design is limiting driveshaft plunge so that it's not a pogo stick when it's transmitting torque. You also see a lot of trucks with carrier bearings so the carrier can move a little when the driveshaft won't plunge right.

Moral of the story is just what others have said, spend some good money and it'll stay with you. square stuff works OK for toyota powered rock crawlers but you'll break parts doing what you do. And links are definitely your friend!
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^^^^ This is the guy to listen / talk to when it comes to suspension advice for these rigs....
 
jekquistk5 said:
He should come to dunefest and teach us. Maybe bring Jack and the 818 blazer..
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Agreed. And I need a new set of passenger springs. My rig leans like mad to the pass side after a season of dumb things.....
 
Ran mine for a while on the front of my k5. 1410 standard u joint each end. I'm no certified welder ethier. And just eyballed it, got it straight enough. Ran it around the block on the rear a few times. Then went on front used alot. But I never left it in 4x4. Only used it when I needed it. Never got around to greaseing it also, but always checked for cracks or signs of failure. And after I removed it, still shows no signs I breaking. But does have alot more play at the slip them b4. Nice to have one spare shaft that will work on front or rear.
 
Nah, I found this sweet jump that made me land harder on the driver side.

All fixxered.
 
i hate to suggest it but it's just a thought.
Ever consider clocking your transfer case to help the driveline angle?
 
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