There is no question about the stage 8s working well once they're installed, they can't come off so unless you stretch the spindle or wear out bearings, the preload can't change. It really comes down to all the extra details.
Stock nut system obviously works ok but the adjustments can be a bit coarse, the outer nut torque is kind of a pain and it's kind of a pain to line the pin up in the greasy hole. We occasionally hear of failures due to the system coming loose somehow so it's possible to mess it up.
Stage 8's downsides are cost and you have to carry snapring pliers but you don't have to have a socket, you can get by effectively without it. That was part of our deal while racing, we were able to chuck another couple pound thing out of the tool bag. You also KNOW that the adjusting nut is going to be where you left it no matter what.
14 bolt nut system doesn't fit on a 10 bolt...
And it's adjustments are a bit coarse. Otherwise it's a pretty good system. I worry about the retaining ring causing problems but chances of that are very slim and it's easy to augment with some wire if you're really worried.
If anything the left is the side to pay more attention to. The LH rotation of the wheel makes keeping RH thread fasteners tight a little more challenging.
On a previous note, Warn hubs for the 10B/D44 have always been really reliable. Much more so than the 35 spline D60 version. They actually made a weaker "fusible link" version years ago and they had to cut a lot of material out of them to make them break before shaft parts. This was before 4340 shafts and good joints and RCVs. If you're running this stuff you need to think about the yukon hubs (or maybe should have bought a D60) but for most of the world the Warns are just fine. Incidentally, the cheaper "plastic dial" warns use the same torque transfer parts as the premiums and don't really have many cap problems so if you have an old set of those don't be too concerned.
