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Stainless brake lines, this a deal?

sled_dog

sled_dog

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I just recently spent a little over $100 on my brake lines for the K5. Well coming time to swap in the High pinion and I am going to put in 52s while I am at it. I have them and the bushings for them sitting on the shelf and I could really use the BDS springs for my suburban so all in all it makes tons of sense. Only problem is I am certain I will have more flex than brake line /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif. I'm over on Bluetorch Fabworks' website and found they have all the parts to put together my own braided lines. Banjo fittings, adaptors, lines, all I need. For $72 without shipping I can get some 36" long braided stainless lines. Sound like a deal? I haven't gone around trying to find other lines this long yet.

I could just limit my droop with the 52s but why would I possibly want to do that? Besides I could also use these brake lines on my Burb /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
In case you're not aware of it, the assembled SS hoses are far stronger than the ready made hoses.

Might try calling the folks at Orme Bros. to see what they get for all of the parts to make your own. I ordered normal hose ends and adapters from them rather than application specific hose ends. I also ordered one spare of each part and enough extra hose to make the longest hose. It's been too long ago for me to remember what I paid, but I want to say that all of my parts for all three hoses + shipping (they're MUCH more local to me) came in at or under $75.
 
I sold a pair to Poohbair, they haven't come in yet, but they are already assembled and ready to go for about the same price as those. The teflon hose is from what I understand far better quality than the "Stainless braided" stuff that you buy when say you get a set of Skyjacker lines or something.

If you want just the parts to make those lines, I can sell them to you also, the hose isn't that expensive, somewhere around $30-40 for a 6 foot chunk of teflon braided hose.

The ones that I'm having made for Poohbair are -3, teflon braided with a straight 37* flare female end and the other end is a 45 degree angle 37* flare swiveling female end.

Requires an adapter at the top to hook to your brake line, and a banjo to -AN adapter at the caliper.

They can be fabricated in any length of your choosing. He chose 40" and I figured oh what the hell if I'm selling them why not have them on my own truck?

I was going to go 35" but I went 40" just like his.

They should be here this week and I can post up some pics if you like.

Any length, any size, assembled or parts, your choice.

Only two cons:
#1 is that they are NOT DOT approved
#2 is that if you want them pre-made, you'll have to order three lines or we can do a "Group purchase" like I did with myself and Poohbair because there is a $$ minimum and they will not take an order for less than that.

Either way, I think they're going to work out great on my rig and his. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

If you're not interested that's fine too, I actually spent quite a bit of time researching this idea after m j mentioned it and that's why I figured I'd try it myself.
 
I get that maybe a pre assembled line will be stronger but I also get that if you mess it up you have to spend all that money on a new one. Here I just have to spend $20 and get a new main line. I think I might go center drop actually.
 
I would look into using a center drop front brake line. Using something that long will just get caught in stuff. Then just run a center limit strap.
 
yeah I already decided if I replace my present setup I'm going with center drop. BTF has plenty of parts that will make it easy.
 
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I would look into using a center drop front brake line. Using something that long will just get caught in stuff. Then just run a center limit strap.

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I disagree. I'm going to secure mine to both the axle tube and all the way up the shock.

There's absolutely no reason why it has to flap in the breeze out by the tire other than that typically you don't have enough brake line to do it. If you secure it to the parts that don't move (axle tube, lower portion of the shock) it will be even more protected than it was from the factory.
 
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I would look into using a center drop front brake line. Using something that long will just get caught in stuff. Then just run a center limit strap.

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i was going to suggest a center drop too, however the limit strap is probably unnecesary. how much does the center of the diff really move? probably not very much.
 
i just put a set of inline tube's 30" ss on my p/u and i notice a serious drop in performance.. and i bled the hell outta em

let me know how the teflon works out
 
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I would look into using a center drop front brake line. Using something that long will just get caught in stuff. Then just run a center limit strap.

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i was going to suggest a center drop too, however the limit strap is probably unnecesary. how much does the center of the diff really move? probably not very much.

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Way more than you think, especially up front. Why do you think my front driveshaft has a 12" long slip yoke?
 
the center, eh it moves a good bit, main reason for the limiting strap in my eyes is getting air born. When you get the front tires airborne of a hill and that suspension just heads down you don't want the brake line trying to limit that shock load. The idea of my K5 being airborne isn't too crazy /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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I would look into using a center drop front brake line. Using something that long will just get caught in stuff. Then just run a center limit strap.

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i was going to suggest a center drop too, however the limit strap is probably unnecesary. how much does the center of the diff really move? probably not very much.

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Way more than you think, especially up front. Why do you think my front driveshaft has a 12" long slip yoke?

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your driveshaft at the pumpkin will move a bit more than the center of the axle. and the shackle is also moving the diff back requiring even more travel

im with sled... keeping the fullsize on the ground
 
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