Stainless transmission lines

[K588]

Need to replace the lines in my 1990 suburban 700R4 . Want to use Stainless ones, I saw hard lines at I believe inline tube is that the way to go? Also noticed some braided flexible kits, are they a better option? If so is there a recommended one to get?

 

[BoondocK5]

I found them on Walmart.com, when searching for hardlines.
It took about 4 weeks for the kit to show up. It had enough different fitting to fit everything from a TH350 to 700R4. The flexible lines are 36" long with fittings for both ends.
I have to say, I went into buying them with low expectations, as it's wallyworld. But, was pleasantly surprised by the quality. Time will tell, as usual...

 

[MrHappy]

Maybe it’s just angle of picture, but lower flare nut on hose looks crooked ? And yes I see they’re braided lines, so you have them directly hooked up to a cooler on other side or into radiator ?

 

[BoondocK5]

They're just hanging for now. But, with same attachmets on the other end, its very easy to adapt them to anything.
It's just the angle of the camera. I started them both with me fingers, then used shorty wrenches to snug them up.

 

[TankedUp]

I’m no help but I have the in-line tube stainless transmission lines in the shop waiting to be installed. Used their brake lines front fit good but rear not so much. But not original axle and aftermarket proportional valve so not there fault.

 

[TJ1978]

Braided for me in both... the only downside is the length, too long so you'll have to make a loop or something to take up the slack.

 

[Recon 78]

Braided for me in both... the only downside is the length, too long so you'll have to make a loop or something to take up the slack.

There's a hydraulic hose shop near me that specializes in braided hoses (main customers are shop forklifts) they can make any length/fittings I want
Mite be worth a shot to look for a place like that by you

 

[Wes Harden]

I made my own braided lines to a remote trans oil cooler. Skipped the radiator completely.

 

[K588]

Reason for skipping the radiator, just curious? Mine currently runs to the radiator then a b&m stacked plate cooler.

 

[Wes Harden]

Separate trans heat from engine heat.
Gets over 115 here and towing the boat at slow speeds both temps would creep up. Now the trans stays 180 or lower, but my engine temp will crest 230 if I don't keep the rpm around 2500.

So one beast would feed the other and I'd have to shut down the ac and turn on the heater to continue home from the lake.
I had the same set up you have to rad then large stacked plate.
Even added an 8" electric fan to plate cooler. Only a minor improvement with fan.
No more I put a 62000 BTU cooler under the bed in front of the axle. Fan runs continuous.
Has only crested 180 once since.
Next Thursday will be a good test, I'll be towing a dune buggy on a trailer up 10% grade for @ 10 miles. 18 out of high desert to Big Bear.

 

[76zimmer]

I used some pushloc hose rated for 250# and IIRC 300*. Wrapped in high heat shielding wrap close to the headers.

 

[KeyBlazer]

Looks good!

 

[skunked]

I use continental hose that came with my derale auxiliary cooler with heat sleeve.

 

[Blue85]

Reason for skipping the radiator, just curious? Mine currently runs to the radiator then a b&m stacked plate cooler.

If you drive in cold weather, the radiator cooler helps to warm the transmission. You want it to come up to temperature sometimes to keep the moisture out.

Both stock applications and KOH type stuff generally run all coolers to the one main radiator because water-water is more effective than water-air and that main rad has so much surface area. In the absolute sense having a large cooler in the radiator could potentially shed more heat, but in the real world it's often going to be doing that at a higher oil temp. A transmission doesn't make much heat until you're pulling with the torque converter unlocked. So it's been debated for years - plenty of threads on it here. For my K5 I run both.