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Stalling at low rpms - EGR Code

J

JonathanCrites

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Howdy y'all, longtime lurker, first time poster. I drive a 1990 V1500 Suburban with the TBI small block. The thing I am running into right now is that I occasionally stall out in low RPM situations: idling, stop lights, Whataburger drive throughs, shifting to reverse, etc. It is not safe to stall, especially in stop and go traffic, but she fires back up every time. Also, if I drive for longer than about thirty minutes or so, I occasionally will get a 'service engine soon' light. I read the OBD code to be Code 32 which seems to point to replacing the EGR valve.

Does that sound like a correct diagnosis? I read a few discussions on here yesterday that point to either cleaning or replacing the EGR. I lean towards just replacing.

I welcome y'all's advice.

Here's a pic of my truck - my kids call it the Beast.

the beast.jpg
 
Hi welcome.

Yes the EGR sticking open can cause stalling.
Before you replace the part. Look at the EGR control solenoid. Should 2 vacuum lines, 2 wires, and on the end there will a sponge filter under a cap.
The filter covers the vent port, if it is dirty it won't vent well.
Check this 1st.
My opinion of aftermarket EGR valves is they are more trouble then there worth. Though finding a gm might be difficult.
Another possibility is the IAC passages are dirty. The tbi base gasket is a weak spot.
The code 32 might be a symptom of vacuum leaks.
 
Wes Harden said:
Hi welcome.

Yes the EGR sticking open can cause stalling.
Before you replace the part. Look at the EGR control solenoid. Should 2 vacuum lines, 2 wires, and on the end there will a sponge filter under a cap.
The filter covers the vent port, if it is dirty it won't vent well.
Check this 1st.
My opinion of aftermarket EGR valves is they are more trouble then there worth. Though finding a gm might be difficult.
Another possibility is the IAC passages are dirty. The tbi base gasket is a weak spot.
The code 32 might be a symptom of vacuum leaks.
Click to expand...
I was talking to a coworker today and he also suggested to check the vacuum lines first. They are probably old and brittle. I also read about the IAC, it sounds a little more complicated than the EGR, as I believe you have to reset the idle after you replace it. But good to know, thank you.
 
sweetk30 said:
If the egr is sticking open at low rpm its a MASSIVE air leak and will make it stall .

Lots of times you can pull and clean the carbon buildup off and re try it .
Click to expand...
I'm not opposed to cleaning it first, but also would be ok with just swapping it for a new one to save time.
 
The iac is no big deal to clean. Carefully unplug it. Unscrew it from tbi. Clean off the plunger, inspect the drive screw, add a few drops of machine oil to drive screw threads, set aside. A wire 1/4" pipe brush and some carb/brake clean and clean the seat and passage.
Dry it out install IAC and wire.
Start it up.
If it idles nicely just drive it. The computer will eventually adjust to new clean iac.
If it runs like crap then min air procedure needs to be done.
 
Had a $500 p.o.s. years ago.
Clogged pcv valve caused the same issues, minus code 32...

With my 89 code 32 seemed to be a generic pms code for the truck. Kinda default, like "I have a headache dear".
 
I'd stay away from aftermarket egrs. The code isn't telling you the EGR is bad, it's telling you that circuit has an issue the ECM is detecting.

Download your service manual here, code will be explained, as will diagnosis: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=5621043&postcount=1

Hopefully they don't call for a bunch of special tools. They shouldn't. Carboned up intake/EGR is a possibility, if they don't also mention it there.
 
JonathanCrites said:
Howdy y'all, longtime lurker, first time poster. I drive a 1990 V1500 Suburban with the TBI small block. The thing I am running into right now is that I occasionally stall out in low RPM situations: idling, stop lights, Whataburger drive throughs, shifting to reverse, etc. It is not safe to stall, especially in stop and go traffic, but she fires back up every time. Also, if I drive for longer than about thirty minutes or so, I occasionally will get a 'service engine soon' light. I read the OBD code to be Code 32 which seems to point to replacing the EGR valve.

Does that sound like a correct diagnosis? I read a few discussions on here yesterday that point to either cleaning or replacing the EGR. I lean towards just replacing.

I welcome y'all's advice.

Here's a pic of my truck - my kids call it the Beast.

View attachment 402619
Click to expand...
Nice looking rig. Always wanted a square body Suburban and just go psycho with it and turn it into an overland vehicle from hell.
 
I think he was being sarcastic.
Sarcasm doesn't convey well in text. Need a sarcastic smiley
 
sweetk30 said:
:p o_0:ROLFLMAO::wink: all in the smiley choices .
Click to expand...
Ok, will do next time. My biggest gripe about aftermarket stuff is alternators. Sweet mother of all things holy, they are absolute crap anymore. Finally bit the bullet and bought a PowerMaster. Problem solved.
 
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