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Stalling engine! WTF.! ! !

BADROC

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Okay here goes, I have an 88' K5 blazer. Just had the engine rebuilt. However this problem has existed prior to the rebuild. When ever its hot the truck will stall, but only when the outside temperature is high. On the drive to work it will stall but I can restart immediately. But on the ride home bout 6-8 hours later when it's cool. Between 5 & 6 am ( or a cool day ) the truck runs great. Now it's a 5.7 liter fuel injected. So does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
 
The next time the your truck shuts down look to see if the ignition is firing, or if the truck is getting fuel to the engine. If it is getting both of these, then the problem may be that the engine is running too rich because the computer is being told the engine is still cold. A bad or disconected "TEMP" or "O2"sending unit could cause this condition.
 
I'll try that, but the issue only happens when it hot outside. Does that make sense?
 
Fuel lines run the stock way? I mean vapor lock is an oldschool problem with not recirculating fuel systems but its still possible if an exhaust pipe is close to a fuel line.


My bet would be the fuel pump or relay is ****ting out in the heat.
 
Fuel lines run the stock way? I mean vapor lock is an oldschool problem with not recirculating fuel systems but its still possible if an exhaust pipe is close to a fuel line.


My bet would be the fuel pump or relay is ****ting out in the heat.

Nah, the exhaust runs down the left side and fuel lines down the right.
 
I think you left a sentence out of your first post. Not a big deal, I do it myself all the time.
But what I want to know, is there a time when it stalls and will not crank back right away?
I was thinking you might have left that part out.
If there is not a time like that, then we have to forget one of the troubleshooting methods.
When I run into something like this, I either go hot or cold.
If you don't have a long term malfunction, then we have to go hot because cold is out.

First, does your air conditioning work? If so, then we can put off testing parts inside the cab, since heat should not bother them.

Next, you need to get some kind of heat gun. A good hair dryer should work. Crank the truck, let it come up to operating temp, then start cooking parts.
Anything electrical that is exposed to the outside air temp, you need to raise its temp about 40 degrees or so.
Don't melt stuff, or burn anything, but try heating the connections for the injectors, the computer, the distributor, things like that.

Don't be in too much of a hurry. Heat a part, then let it soak for a little while. The heat might take a few minutes to do the work.
If it quits after heating a part, then you have run it down.

Just for fun, next time it quits, hurry back and loosen the gas cap. If you hear a loud whoosh, then your venting system may be stopped up causing too much pressure on the system.
 
Do u have fusible links on your truck? Mine gave me problems when hot and overheating. One went to the cpu and the truck was dead. Just thinking out loud........:)
 
I'll try that, but the issue only happens when it hot outside. Does that make sense?

Yes, because when the weather is cold, your engine will run just fine (although not 100% correctly, but not enough to notice) all day with the fuel mixture too rich, but when the weather gets hot, the engine will not like to run (especialy at idle) correctly.
 
Dont ingnition modules have this problem when they go bad?

Yes they do! In fact a friend of mine with a 1970 Dodge Charger just had this exact same problem with the external control module on his MSD ignition system. It would run just fine when first started for about a half an hour then just shut down, and sometimes even restart immedialty (or not) after shutting down, only to shut down 15 minutes later again.
 
Well the error codes: 42,43 & 44 show up. So I picked up a new map sensor and looking to rebuild the throttle body fuel injectors. I haven't found them new but was told new TBI would run bout $300. That's outside my budget, If anyone can beat that price let me know. Or if rebuilt is dependable then maybe I'll stay that route.
 
There is hardly anything to them unless you re bush the throttle shaft. Rebuild kit is somethin like 13 dollars.
 
Why are you buying new injectors and a new MAP? Those error codes have nothing to do with them.

Codes, from http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240425 :

42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit (sets when timing is set also, clear code and verify that it does not return.)

43. Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit

44. Oxygen sensor lean

It sounds like your ESC is either got a loose wire or is dying. You should test it first.

And what's up with your O2 sensor? I have a similar issue, but it's because I have headers and the stock O2 sensor. I need to put in a heated O2 sensor but have been too lazy.

FYI - Fuel injected vehicles don't get vapor lock, that's a carburetor only issue.
 
Tell me to go if you want me to start a new thread, but my 88' 5.7 tbi is kind of doing the same thing as soon as the engine warms up it sputters and back fires. I just stay on it and it works through it and is fine but after 3 days in a row they are lasting longer and happening quicker. I just did plugs, wires and a new cap, and then this all started. Any ideas?

BADROC

Does yours work through it and keep running?
 
FYI - Fuel injected vehicles don't get vapor lock, that's a carburetor only issue.

TBI isnt exactly the highest pressure going. If some dip dill ran a fuel line right by an exhaust pipe it could theoretically happen.

And honestly vapor lock has nothing to do with the motor being carbureted its just that about 75% of the carbd motors out there dont have a return to circulate the fuel which makes vapor lock WAY more likely.
 
Well it turns out the fuel pressure regulator needed to be replaced, and the culprit behind that was the distributor ( it could build any power/get out of it's own way ). So I'll drive it for a while to be sure :waytogo:
 

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