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Stand alone harness help

Update: finally attempted to start the engine and amazingly it fired right up on the first try!! I am proud of myself as this was my first injection swap as well as full rewire of my K5 from scratch. Everything is running well but my only issue is that the alternator light (wired in via indicator light to the alt wire from engine harness as instructed above) but I have an in dash volt meter which indicates 14.2 volts when running. Did I misinterpret something here? @Team208Motorsports
 
When you have the ignition turned on, you should see your alternator light on. It should turn off when you start the engine. Your volt gauge sounds like it is reading correctly. It is not related to the alternator light circuit.
 
Russell said:
When you have the ignition turned on, you should see your alternator light on. It should turn off when you start the engine. Your volt gauge sounds like it is reading correctly. It is not related to the alternator light circuit.
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Oh, good. Then everything is operating correctly. Almost ready for a maiden voyage! LOL. Just have to install my new bilsteins all the way around, install air system for the locker, tidy up minor electrical circuits, transfer case shifter, & double check everything
 
Update for their that care:

Finally got to take it out and motor is running spectacular. Team208motorsports tune to the computer is phenomenal!! Worth every dollar!! Only issue I had is that the cooling fan is not coming on. Computer is reading temp according my scanner. Probably a wiring issue on my part. Haven't had a chance to check it out yet. As I interpret @Team208Motorsports instructions the fan wire from harness should connect directly to the fan as power. The other wire from the fan itself would go to ground.
 
Magikal said:
Update for their that care:

Finally got to take it out and motor is running spectacular. Team208motorsports tune to the computer is phenomenal!! Worth every dollar!! Only issue I had is that the cooling fan is not coming on. Computer is reading temp according my scanner. Probably a wiring issue on my part. Haven't had a chance to check it out yet. As I interpret @Team208Motorsports instructions the fan wire from harness should connect directly to the fan as power. The other wire from the fan itself would go to ground.
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The fan wire should connect to a relay that will power the fan, similar to the fuel pump relay.
 
That was my original thought also but according to team208 in earlier post in this thread it already is ran through a relay and that wire is power to the fan unless I am not interpreting it right.....(n)(n)

Below here the part in parentheses was my original thought. After that is team208 correction

Quote:

Fan---- (connect to switch side of fan relay (as a power or ground))??
This is power for the fan from a relay
 
Update. Rechecked wiring and all is good. Unplugged relay and ran jumper wire to fan side of relay and fan powered up. Swapped relay with known good one and still nothing. Seems the relay is not receiving signal from computer. Ran temp up to 205 according to scanner and verified with mechanical temp gauge I have installed. Fan should kick on around 195 area? Sensor read 200 ohm at this point...

@Team208Motorsports please help here


Think I am gonna replace sensor and thermostat
 
Magikal said:
Update. Rechecked wiring and all is good. Unplugged relay and ran jumper wire to fan side of relay and fan powered up. Swapped relay with known good one and still nothing. Seems the relay is not receiving signal from computer. Ran temp up to 205 according to scanner and verified with mechanical temp gauge I have installed. Fan should kick on around 195 area? Sensor read 200 ohm at this point...

@Team208Motorsports please help here


Think I am gonna replace sensor and thermostat
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Try running it up to 215 and see if the fan comes on. I don't know what the settings are in the computer. Originally they didn't come on until 225 or so.
 
Wow, really? That seems awful hot.....

Worst case I will run it to the second fan I have wired to a manual switch and run them both that way until I hear from Team208motorsports
 
No reason to replace thermostat and sensor, if the ohm reading matches with the mechanical temp gauge.

Is the fan controlled by the ECM/ECU/TCM or is controlled strictly through a switch or switches?
 
dyeager535 said:
No reason to replace thermostat and sensor, if the ohm reading matches with the mechanical temp gauge.

Is the fan controlled by the ECM/ECU/TCM or is controlled strictly through a switch or switches?
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Two fans, first one is supposed to be controlled by ecu. Second is on a switch manually. Second works fine, it's the first one that is having issues
 
If that is the case, can you see if the ECU is commanding the fan on?

In over my head on these, the earlier stuff within the software you could enable/disable electric fan control, and of course the fan on/off temps, and the datastream would tell you when the fan was supposed to turn on.

My thinking is, if you can see that the ECU is telling the fan to turn on, it's almost certainly a wiring deal. I would *assume* the ECM is the ground side of the relay, small gauge 12V ignition (or somewhat less commonly 12V battery) to the other side. The "switched" side of the relay is going to be large gauge wire, probably battery 12V in, and out to the fan motor.
 
dyeager535 said:
If that is the case, can you see if the ECU is commanding the fan on?

In over my head on these, the earlier stuff within the software you could enable/disable electric fan control, and of course the fan on/off temps, and the datastream would tell you when the fan was supposed to turn on.

My thinking is, if you can see that the ECU is telling the fan to turn on, it's almost certainly a wiring deal. I would *assume* the ECM is the ground side of the relay, small gauge 12V ignition (or somewhat less commonly 12V battery) to the other side. The "switched" side of the relay is going to be large gauge wire, probably battery 12V in, and out to the fan motor.
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Yes, I know all this and had you read my posts earlier you would know that I have chased all this down and narrowed it down to the relay is not receiving signal from computer to switch on
 
Oh ok, I missed the parts where you checked the wiring to the relay for signal from ECU, know what temp the fan is set to come on at, and figured out that you can see the ECU commanding the fan on to know when to test for signal.
 
dyeager535 said:
Oh ok, I missed the parts where you checked the wiring to the relay for signal from ECU, know what temp the fan is set to come on at, and figured out that you can see the ECU commanding the fan on to know when to test for signal.
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Beyond the relay (ecu, etc.) is not my department. Team208motorsports reworked this harness and computer and I am not about to go digging into their work without instructions from them. I paid good money for their work and it is top notch. Until I hear from them I think I will wire the first fan in with the second and control it manually.
 
Sorry, been out of town and still am. Factory AUX fan trigger is 225. Some of the early Vortec ECMs only allow me to enable and disable the aux, not fully control it.
 
Team208Motorsports said:
Sorry, been out of town and still am. Factory AUX fan trigger is 225. Some of the early Vortec ECMs only allow me to enable and disable the aux, not fully control it.
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Team208motorsports, thanx for the response. I don't doubt what you say but am curious why it triggers so high? Obviously this doesn't harm the motor apparently. Guess I am still old school where I am shutting it down at that temp. Guess I will run it up to 225 and see. Damn, we had it at 220 and shut down 'er down....
 
Magikal said:
Team208motorsports, thanx for the response. I don't doubt what you say but am curious why it triggers so high? Obviously this doesn't harm the motor apparently. Guess I am still old school where I am shutting it down at that temp. Guess I will run it up to 225 and see. Damn, we had it at 220 and shut down 'er down....
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On the original truck application that this computer was designed for had an engine driven fan. The electric fan was only used in extreme temperature situations when the engine driven fan could not keep up, hence the high turn on temp.
Unfortunately on the early (96-97) black box computers the tuning software is limited as to what it can modify, otherwise team208 would have changed the temp to a lower setting.
 
I'll look again and see if I missed something or if I can find the correct hex address to change it. I get home early next week. Shoot me an email or pm to remind me.

[email protected]
 
Team208Motorsports said:
I'll look again and see if I missed something or if I can find the correct hex address to change it. I get home early next week. Shoot me an email or pm to remind me.

[email protected]
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Thanx. I doubt you did anything incorrect. I am just trying to get educated here I suppose.

BigBlock72, I think I am gonna do exactly that; put the engine driven fan back on and run the electric as a backup fan for hot situations. We will see what Team208motorsports finds next week when home.

Thanx again everyone for all the assistance. I am learning lots.
 
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