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Started gathering parts for 52" swap and x over

lochenjons

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Went to the pick n pull today and picked up some shock towers from an old jeep wagoneer. They seemed better than the furd ones I saw since they had a bolt for the shock to go on instead of the furd ones which would only work for shocks that have the bolt that goes up vertically (if that makes sense I'm not sure what its actually called). I'll post some pics when I get home. I already have the longer shocks (my old rancho rs5000 I had in the rear untill I needed longer ones for the 14b) so it seems this heep tower will work out perfectly.

I also got the springs themselves and they're gonna need new bushings. I think I read that one side of them needs either different bushings or a 1/4" spacer. What side is this for (shackle or hanger)? What could I use on the leafs to make them more durable? The write-up here mentions UHMW-PE, but I'm not sure what this even is. I would probably be fine with some regular old paint right?

I got an output shaft from a 2wd steering box from a newer truck. But I couldn't find a pitman arm, I was told a 74-79 ferd van works for x over, I managed to find an 82 van, is it the same? It was too much of a pain to get off (damn furds...:mad:) especially not knowing if it was what I wanted at all. What other ones work? Why does the regular chevy 2wd ones not work?

I couldn't find a flattop knucke from a chevy, but I found one from an old dodge, do these work or no? I thought I read that pretty much only chevy ones work and not furd of heep but it didnt mention dodges.

I assume I have to buy a draglink and steering arm since none will work from anything stock correct?

Total spent so far: $100 for springs, shock towers, and 2wd output shaft. I plan on doing both the 52" swap and x over for around $400 so I'll keep you all posted on how that works out.
 
The UHMW stuff is ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene. When I went to TAP, the local plastic place, they said "Oh you mean..." something else. Basically it's slippery tape, like Teflon, so the springs don't stick together. For ten bucks for the roll, I'd say its worth it.

Looks like TAP only goes about as far south as San Jose, so Yellow Pages it is for you I think.

-- A
 
If you don't mind buying sight unseen or paying shipping, try www.mcmaster.com and search for UHMW Polyethylene Film. Everything they have is wider than a leaf spring so you'll have to cut it to width.
 
lochenjons said:
I got an output shaft from a 2wd steering box from a newer truck. But I couldn't find a pitman arm, I was told a 74-79 ferd van works for x over, I managed to find an 82 van, is it the same? It was too much of a pain to get off (damn furds...:mad:) especially not knowing if it was what I wanted at all. What other ones work? Why does the regular chevy 2wd ones not work?

I couldn't find a flattop knucke from a chevy, but I found one from an old dodge, do these work or no? I thought I read that pretty much only chevy ones work and not furd of heep but it didnt mention dodges.

I assume I have to buy a draglink and steering arm since none will work from anything stock correct?

Total spent so far: $100 for springs, shock towers, and 2wd output shaft. I plan on doing both the 52" swap and x over for around $400 so I'll keep you all posted on how that works out.
ttt
 
I found a chevy flattop knuckle, drilled, tapped, everything ready to go. How much $$ is a fair price for somethign like this? I'm still assuming that dodge one wont work?
 
lochenjons said:
I found a chevy flattop knuckle, drilled, tapped, everything ready to go. How much $$ is a fair price for somethign like this? I'm still assuming that dodge one wont work?

WFO lists them as $165, $65 of which is the machine work.

-- A
 
lochenjons said:
I found a chevy flattop knuckle, drilled, tapped, everything ready to go. How much $$ is a fair price for somethign like this? I'm still assuming that dodge one wont work?

You need both knuckles unless you are going to full high steer. I have sold pairs of knuckles with both sides tapped and machined for $150-180.

dodge knuckles will not work. the brake mounting is different.
 
gmc4cw said:
You need both knuckles unless you are going to full high steer. I have sold pairs of knuckles with both sides tapped and machined for $150-180.

dodge knuckles will not work. the brake mounting is different.
Both, meaning driverside and passenger? Why does drivers side matter? And thats already flattop
 
lochenjons said:
Both, meaning driver side and passenger? Why does drivers side matter? And thats already flattop

the taper for the tie-rod mount is opposite on a Dana 44 flat top knuckle from a 10 bolt knuckle. one of them mounts the tie-rod on top and the other from the bottom. you can have one of your knuckles drilled and tapered to match the other but by that time you could have just bought a matching pair.
 
gmc4cw said:
the taper for the tie-rod mount is opposite on a Dana 44 flat top knuckle from a 10 bolt knuckle. one of them mounts the tie-rod on top and the other from the bottom. you can have one of your knuckles drilled and tapered to match the other but by that time you could have just bought a matching pair.
Well..I have a d44 so I assume it would be the same then right?
 
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