CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Starter bolt torque to block?

wazzabie

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Posts
2,922
Reaction score
447
Location
Washington State
What is the torque for the two start bolts that hold the starter into the block? This is on a 78 K5 350 blazer. Stock starter.
 
Book says 35 ft lbs... it just seams high to me.


nah, think about it.. thats what intake manifolds are, and they aren't "crazy" tight...

and yeah, thats a little excessive, torqueing starter bolts... rods, mains, oil pump, heads, intake and flywheel are about all I ever torque... well, Mercruiser exhaust too...
 
Thats fine

35 ft lbs is fine for a 3/8" grade 8 bolt. And for the record the manifold bolts should be torqued to 30 ft lbs in sequnce with 3 passes gradually getting to 30 so you dont crush the gasket and have an intake leak or water passage leak. can you do it without? Yes but why not take the time to do it right the first time =)
You know what they say. If you dont have the time to do it right the first time when will you have time to do it again?
 
In my '72 service manual there is a torque spec for damn near everything on the truck. Probably 200+ specs. But like some are saying, don't sweet the small "stuff". I guess.
 
35 ft lbs is fine for a 3/8" grade 8 bolt. And for the record the manifold bolts should be torqued to 30 ft lbs in sequnce with 3 passes gradually getting to 30 so you dont crush the gasket and have an intake leak or water passage leak. can you do it without? Yes but why not take the time to do it right the first time =)
You know what they say. If you dont have the time to do it right the first time when will you have time to do it again?

I agree. I have a torque wrench so why try and guess. It only takes a second to grab it and set the settings.

The starter bolt is a grade 8 bolt. I have it at 35 lb ft. Any took several passes at it between bolts.

What is interesting is that I will tigten a bolt and the torque wrench will not click, then I tighten the other bolt and it clicks. I go back to the first bolt and it clicks with out moving the bolt. Makes me wonder why it did not click on the last wrenching.
 
i always just tightened it down til it seemed "tight enough" to me.as said i generally only torque specific applications where im worried about seals or braking something from overtorque. i use the gutentight method also.haha
 
Last edited:
What is interesting is that I will tigten a bolt and the torque wrench will not click, then I tighten the other bolt and it clicks. I go back to the first bolt and it clicks with out moving the bolt. Makes me wonder why it did not click on the last wrenching.

Because when you torqued the one side down, it rocked over slightly, and pulled the first side tight. Just like tightening up u-bolts. I am not gonna lie though, torquing starter bolts is very silly.

Martin
 
What is interesting is that I will tigten a bolt and the torque wrench will not click, then I tighten the other bolt and it clicks. I go back to the first bolt and it clicks with out moving the bolt. Makes me wonder why it did not click on the last wrenching.

Technically you are supposed to "exercise" a torque wrench before you use it. This makes sure the spring is set to the torque amount you need. I think that you are supposed to exercise it 3 or 4 times before you put it on the first bolt you are torqing down.

Rick
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom