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Starter Issue

90Suburban

90Suburban

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Posts
123
Reaction score
1
Location
Tustin, CA
Hey Everyone,

I need a little assistance and insight. I got in my 90 Suburban yesterday to start it and I turned the key as usual and cranked it up. I let go of the key and the starter kept cranking, so I panicked and turned the key off completely and the starter kept going. Well it went until the starter completely gave out. I popped the hood and there was a burning smell. So now I need a new starter but what is causing the continuous cranking?! I know that my ignition and ignition switch is shot because I sometimes dont even need a key to turn the ignition but could that cause it to keep cranking? Any insight will help! Thank you.
 
The key sliding in and out doesn't mean your ignition switch is the culprit, those tumblers wear over time. I can pull my key out at will but the switch is fine.

I'd replace the starter and check over your wiring. It's quite possible that the solenoid fused and didn't release when you stopped cranking, and since the starter is wired directly to the battery, the connection is always hot (which is why you can bypass a bad solenoid by jumping the connections with a scredriver). You can always test your ignition switch with a buddy and a voltmeter, but I'd bet your issue is that solenoid. If it's original, its about due. I replaced the starter on my 85 as a preventative when I changed the engine, and the solenoid case broke when I tried to remove the wiring.
 
paratrooper307 said:
The key sliding in and out doesn't mean your ignition switch is the culprit, those tumblers wear over time. I can pull my key out at will but the switch is fine.

I'd replace the starter and check over your wiring. It's quite possible that the solenoid fused and didn't release when you stopped cranking, and since the starter is wired directly to the battery, the connection is always hot (which is why you can bypass a bad solenoid by jumping the connections with a scredriver). You can always test your ignition switch with a buddy and a voltmeter, but I'd bet your issue is that solenoid. If it's original, its about due. I replaced the starter on my 85 as a preventative when I changed the engine, and the solenoid case broke when I tried to remove the wiring.
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Yea the starter is in bad shape and is probably the original one. If I get the replacement starter it comes with the solenoid attached correct?
 
It should come with the solenoid. It's a widely available unit and they should have it in stock at your auto parts store of choice.
 
Also, look at the starter that came off and see if it has the wide or narrow opening for the Bendix gear. There seems to be a lot of variation as to which vehicle has what, but I've been told you need to match what came off the truck. I think I might have an unused reman starter in my shop, and I'll take a look at it if you want it, but I imagine the shipping cost would be as much as buying one yourself.
 
paratrooper307 said:
Also, look at the starter that came off and see if it has the wide or narrow opening for the Bendix gear. There seems to be a lot of variation as to which vehicle has what, but I've been told you need to match what came off the truck. I think I might have an unused reman starter in my shop, and I'll take a look at it if you want it, but I imagine the shipping cost would be as much as buying one yourself.
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Thanks for the offer but Ill just take mine off and take it to the parts store. I think they are like $40. Ive never replaced a starter, do you have any pointers, tips, or tricks? Thanks for your help!
 
These starters are about as easy as they get:

-Disconnect the battery first, or you will be in for an unpleasant shock.

-Remove the wiring. You'll find the heavy wiring from the battery and the thinner ignition wires to actuate the solenoid. Some people like to use small zip ties to keep wires together and make reconnecting everything in the right place easier. You can also remove the wiring after you drop the starter. Your choice.

-The starter is held in place by two bolts into the block. Since you're in California, I doubt you'll have to worry about rust seizing the bolts. Make sure to support the starter as you remove the bolts. It is heavy enough to ruin your day if it falls on you! When the bolts are removed, guide it out of the flywheel housing and lower it to the ground. Depending on your exhaust setup, this will either be extremely simple or require some juggling.

-When you get the new starter, you may want to pick up a pack of starter shims. Neither my old starter nor my new one needed them, but some have reported having to shim their starter to obtain the right flywheel engagement. They are just thin pieces of metal that go between the starter and the block. It's trial and error, you'll know if you need to shim it when you try to crank and it doesn't sound like it's engaging properly.
 
paratrooper307 said:
These starters are about as easy as they get:

-Disconnect the battery first, or you will be in for an unpleasant shock.

-Remove the wiring. You'll find the heavy wiring from the battery and the thinner ignition wires to actuate the solenoid. Some people like to use small zip ties to keep wires together and make reconnecting everything in the right place easier. You can also remove the wiring after you drop the starter. Your choice.

-The starter is held in place by two bolts into the block. Since you're in California, I doubt you'll have to worry about rust seizing the bolts. Make sure to support the starter as you remove the bolts. It is heavy enough to ruin your day if it falls on you! When the bolts are removed, guide it out of the flywheel housing and lower it to the ground. Depending on your exhaust setup, this will either be extremely simple or require some juggling.

-When you get the new starter, you may want to pick up a pack of starter shims. Neither my old starter nor my new one needed them, but some have reported having to shim their starter to obtain the right flywheel engagement. They are just thin pieces of metal that go between the starter and the block. It's trial and error, you'll know if you need to shim it when you try to crank and it doesn't sound like it's engaging properly.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thank you for the detailed info. That really helps. Should be a piece of cake, just the first time jitters I guess.
 
Good info on replacing the starter.

But I would seriously look at that ignition switch and do some continuity checks in all key positions. Being an old worn out tumbler, who knows what else is wrong with the ignition cylinder, possibly leaving a closed circuit. You know the starter is FUBAR, so the solenoid fused is unfortunately ruled out for you to ever know if that was the case.

I'd do that before you install your new starter, only take you a few minutes.
 
mrschaeferpants said:
Good info on replacing the starter.

But I would seriously look at that ignition switch and do some continuity checks in all key positions. Being an old worn out tumbler, who knows what else is wrong with the ignition cylinder, possibly leaving a closed circuit. You know the starter is FUBAR, so the solenoid fused is unfortunately ruled out for you to ever know if that was the case.

I'd do that before you install your new starter, only take you a few minutes.
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Thanks for the info. Can you explain how to check the continuity? I have a tester but I am not sure exactly where to place the tester or what I am looking for. Thank you!

Also, I plan on replacing the tumbler and ignition switch also.
 
90Suburban said:
Thanks for the info. Can you explain how to check the continuity? I have a tester but I am not sure exactly where to place the tester or what I am looking for. Thank you!

Also, I plan on replacing the tumbler and ignition switch also.
Click to expand...

A tester light or multi-meter? Or at least a dedicated ohmmeter/resistance tester. I'll assume you have a multi-meter that goes "beep" when the dial is in continuity/ohmmeter mode.

Anyhoo, put one lead on the solenoid wire, the other lead on any positive (pos battery terminal for instance).

The meter should only beep while you're holding the key in the start position. Not in run, not in off, not in acc if you have it.
 
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