What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Starter Keeps Moving

swettysblazer

swettysblazer

Swetty The Yeti
Vendor
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Posts
5,919
Reaction score
2,617
Location
North Jersey
1978 K5, 350, SM465. Nothing crazy done to the motor, just a cam. The starter keeps moving away from the flywheel, no matter how tight I get the bolts. I can move it back and it starts fine for a while, but after 10-15 starts (sometimes less, sometimes more) I have to get under the truck and loosen the starter bolts and move it closer to the flywheel again. It's at the point where it's starting to chew up the flywheel. Any suggestions on what to do to prevent this?
 
Do you have the correct bolts? The should have a knurled section just under the head.
If you do have the correct bolts check for wear. If that is good. Then the nose is worn out
 
I didn't think they had enough play to do that.
Is it possible that you have the wrong starter for your ring gear...? Like the 168 tooth RG starter, and 153 tooth RG.

I'm not sure how much difference in OD they have. So I'm not sure if you could get that combo to grab. But figured it was worth a thought :dunno:.
I did it the other way around once and the starter gear would just spin out on the face of the RG just shy of getting in the groove. Which is how I learned that there 2 different ones lol.
 
I don't think the wrong bolts would allow it to move the full 1/8" or more that it would need to.. unless it's been loose a while and wollerd the holes out.
 
That's what I meant. You shouldn't have 1/8" of movement at the bolts. I don't think even the wrong bolts would allow that..
Has to be more going on than that
 
Brand new starter, brand new flywheel, brand new correct bolts. I'm afraid of going tighter on the bolts because I don't wanna crack the housing on the starter.
 
Make sure the bolts aren't bottoming out before they clamp the starter firmly to the block..there are more than one length of OEM starter bolts,also metric & SAE depending on the year of the block & starter..
It could be you have a starter with 10MM holes in the nose,on an older engine with 3/8" block holes..that'll let it wallow around while cranking..

Though 99% of SBC starters never have a front brace replaced when the starter gets replaced,it is a good thing to have,especially on a high compression engine..it takes a lot of strain off the two other mounting bolts during cranking..

In my experience a 153 tooth flywheel is rare to see on a truck,and the correct starter for that tooth count is the one with the two bolts "straight across"...ones for 168 tooth flywheels have a nose with a diagonal 2 bolt mounting...you'd never get a 168 tooth starter to engage a 153 tooth flywheel..
 
swettysblazer said:
Brand new starter, brand new flywheel, brand new correct bolts. I'm afraid of going tighter on the bolts because I don't wanna crack the housing on the starter.
Click to expand...
Something definitely wrong there.
The new knurled bolts should keep the new nose cone in the same spot, no adjustment is possible without shims.
Put the bolts in the starter and look if the knurled section is in the right spot and if it's loose or tight.
 
If it's a reman'd starter, my bet is the holes have been enlarged by a previous owner. Point I've tried to make is the bolt should fit the hole with NO play. None. There isn't a such thing in the normal world as being able to slide your starter.
You know the bolts are right because they tighten up good in the threads. So all that leaves is the holes in the starter are too big. There can't be anything else. :dunno:
 
shady said:
If it's a reman'd starter, my bet is the holes have been enlarged by a previous owner. Point I've tried to make is the bolt should fit the hole with NO play. None. There isn't a such thing in the normal world as being able to slide your starter.
You know the bolts are right because they tighten up good in the threads. So all that leaves is the holes in the starter are too big. There can't be anything else. :dunno:
Click to expand...
That's why I always buy new not remanufactured. Or I rebuild mine with a new nose.
 
Bolts (from what I remember) didn't have any play. Gonna try and put the rear brace on and see what happens.
 
Are you positive that the bolts are not to long. I had this problem on a mini starter.
 
I like the aftermarket starters that have both the staggered and strait bolt pattern,and run all 3 bolts. Works great on my Procharged ,timing locked out bbc in my 56 pickup.
 
BigBK5 said:
I like the aftermarket starters that have both the staggered and strait bolt pattern,and run all 3 bolts. Works great on my Procharged ,timing locked out bbc in my 56 pickup.
Click to expand...

yep, I run powermaster starters.
 
Bumping it back.... I can get the truck to start. But it will only do it once, maybe twice. I am cranking the everloving BALLS out of these bolts but I dont want to break them. I'm ready to pull the trans out and rip this whole thing apart. IDK WTF to do.
 
Pull it out. Push the bolts through, and take a pic of the threaded area where it protrudes from the starter. We're down to needing visual aid.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom