Starter Problems

[nau81blazer]

Hey guys,

I have been going thru starters like crazy. This last one went out and I pulled it down and the housing for the gear was cracked. I don't have any shims on the starter nor, do i remeber having any when i got the truck. I was wondering how you go about determining how many shims and where these shims would need to go, in order to line up the starter correctly? Any suggestions? Thanks for the help guys!

--Adam

 

[79blzrfan]

Every starter you get is a little bit different. Some may not need shims and others will. That's why if I have one that works good and engages without problems I'll rebuild the starter rather than buy a new and have to turn it in for a core. You can get the shims at any auto parts place. Start out with the smallest and put it between the starter and the block and tighten the bolts. Try it if it grinds add another shim until it engages properly. Sometimes you may have to only put the shim under one of the bolts to get it to line up properly. It can get to be a pain but way cheaper than a new flywheel or ring gear. Hope this helps

Scott

 

[POWERMAD]

I went through a bunch of housings till I figured out that the timing was to far advanced.
The distributor was froze at max advance and when trying to start it it would kick back and break the housing.
A brace on the rear of the starter helps too.

To check the starter drive to flexplate clearance.
Leave the main positive cable off the starter and use a starter switch between the cable and the solinoid. ( remote starter relay makes this easier)
When you press the starter switch it will engage the starter but it will not spin.
You can then check the backlash using a paperclip as a gage.
Add shims as needed untill you can get the clip between the face of the two gears, sorta like gapping plugs.
Don't keep the solinoid energized for more than a minute at a time or you'll let the smoke out of it.

 

[bigblock44k5]

Ditto on what Powermad said. That is what most commonly breaks the nose off of starters.