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Starter selonoid

CK5

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Is there a starter selonoid we can use on a GM starter that doesn't have the ignition post on it (Ford maybe), I have a remote selonoid and don't need it anyway, plus I just striped the positive post so will have to drop the starter, driveshaft etc. to get it out anyway.
Basicly, is there something I can use that doesn't require the use of the factory selonoid?
 
you might try to tear it open and bypass it,(since you already have the remote)

mabey a basterdising of a ford starter and a chevy bolt block the thing the starter bolts go threw.
mabey /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I need to replace my stock selonoid, its clicking and not starting occationally /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
All of the Ford style starters are just too different to work, I think.
On a stock style Chevy solenoid, the upper large connecting post gives power to the actual kicking out of the starter gear. If you run power to just the lower conecting post, the starter motor will spin, but not kick out.

I run a remote Ford solenoid on my truck and I just put a jumper between the "s" terminal and the upper post. As I understand it, the idea of the remote solenoid is not to replace a stock one, but to instead make using it more efficient somehow.

So i guess since you run a remote solenoid, you could run 2 different cables to the stock starter to make sure it was getting the most amperage, one on the top and one on the bottom post. You would still have to jump that "s" terminal though, but you will be hitting starter with most amperage possible I guess.

Blake
 
It has more to do with voltage. When you have the factory wires run to the starter and the engine runs and heats everything up the resistance increases. The fusable(sp?) links are down there also. When the engine is hot, the wire to engange the starter sometimes will only have 8 or 9 volts. When using the remote solenoid you will always get the full battery voltage to the starter motor and the "engager". It would be of no benefit to run two seperate wires to the starter if using a remote solenoid. When I did mine I used a small piece of flat steel as a jumper between the two terminals so I wouldn't have to worry about a wire connection coming loose.
 
The reason I ask is because I have a rather large lug on the end of the battery cable and it doesn't quite fit on the main battery post because of the smaller posts, I have to take it off now anyway so maybe I can make it fit with the assembly off where I can see what I'm doing. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
The solenoid on the Chevy starter is responsible not only for making the electrical connection, but also for pushing out the gear. If you bypass it, you can get the starter to spin, but it won't engage the flywheel.

You would have to go with a different style starter (like the Ford) that uses the centrifigal force of the starter to push the gear out.

Otherwise, we would all just bypass them and run remote solenoids only.
 
Can you get a Ford mini starter. The type that allows you to rotate the starter with the mounting block on the front? If you can maybe its also possible to swap the mounting block to run the chevy bolt pattern block on a Ford starter. This way you have the best of both worlds. Gotta be a way to do it.
 
I saw a seloniod relocation kit in Summit. Not sure though if it's the same as your remote. The description said relocates and has a remote option. Hope it helps.
 
I used the Summit kit - works great.

summit-1a.jpg
 
Welp, the only way to get it to work with the monster battery cables was to ditch the heat shield on the starter mounted selonoid. I would think that would be OK because I have the remote mounted selonoid so heat will not be an issue there, anybody see an issue with not running the heat shield on the starter mounted selonoid?
 
I don't have the heat shield on mine, never any problems /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 

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