Starter sticking on 94 6.5

[The_Tomato]

So I've had an issue with my starter continuing to crank even after the key is released. Through process of elimination and a few key part replacements, I've narrowed it down to the starter bendix staying kicked out thanks to the flywheel and starter gear being wedged together. I've tried quite a few shims and still haven't gotten it to stop sticking. Any other suggestions to help fix this?

For more context, I did a clutch job on this truck and switched from dual mass to solid flywheel. I think I saw somewhere that the dual mass flywheel has 138 teeth and all the solid ones I'm finding have 139. Pretty stumped.

 

[Barrman]

I have never read that about different teeth counts. As far as I am aware the 6.2/6.5 has only 2 starter motors. The direct drive Delco 27MT for the early 6.2. Then the reduction drive 28MT for the late 6.2 engines and all 6.5 engines.

There were small mouth automatic only versions of both and big mouth auto and manual versions of both. The small mouth will not bolt up to an engine with a flywheel installed I have learned from personal experience. So, you should have a reduction drive big mouth starter. Some of them actually have “No shim” cast into the housing where the solenoid bolts on. Which normally works just fine unless you have a cheap Chinese knock off.

However, if you don’t have the support bracket on and tight. Your problem could be caused by that. Is the bracket on and tight? If not, get the bracket and new starter bolts because yours are flexing and will probably break soon.

Here is a video I made about the different starters:

 

[The_Tomato]

I have never read that about different teeth counts. As far as I am aware the 6.2/6.5 has only 2 starter motors. The direct drive Delco 27MT for the early 6.2. Then the reduction drive 28MT for the late 6.2 engines and all 6.5 engines.

There were small mouth automatic only versions of both and big mouth auto and manual versions of both. The small mouth will not bolt up to an engine with a flywheel installed I have learned from personal experience. So, you should have a reduction drive big mouth starter. Some of them actually have “No shim” cast into the housing where the solenoid bolts on. Which normally works just fine unless you have a cheap Chinese knock off.

However, if you don’t have the support bracket on and tight. Your problem could be caused by that. Is the bracket on and tight? If not, get the bracket and new starter bolts because yours are flexing and will probably break soon.

Here is a video I made about the different starters:

This is great info and very helpful, thanks.

 

[The_Tomato]

Here's a video explaining the situation. I'm powering just the signal terminal for the solenoid using an external solenoid and a switch for diag.

 

[The_Tomato]

I'm thinking the flywheel seems too big. Only reason I can think of that multiple starters would be hanging up like this and causing that much wear.

 

[campfire]

I'm thinking the flywheel seems too big. Only reason I can think of that multiple starters would be hanging up like this and causing that much wear.

Might be. I tried but was not able to see the video.

Starter shims are not recommended for this engine family. These starters try to twist sideways worse than most, and shims make it harder for the starter to clamp firmly in place. I also didn't see an answer on whether the brace is tight.

Either of these problems can allow the starter axis to shift (so it's not perpendicular to the flywheel), which causes the starter to mesh incorrectly. Incorrect mesh commonly leads to binding.

If neither of these points to a problem, you may be correct about having an oversized flywheel. Do you have your old one to check against?