Starting 14B swap

[CharlieC]

I'm starting my 14B swap into my '74 this evening, to include new springs, shocks and a DIY4X Flip n Switch. I've got a 3" Block plus an add-a-leaf currently. The new springs are 2" EZ Rides and with the height I'm gaining from DIY4X piece, I'm guessing that will give me the extra inch I need to get back to level? The 14B perches have been removed as well as shock mounts, I've new ones to install/weld in.

Is there anything I need to know or be aware of before doing the DIY4X swap? Seems pretty straightforward.

Thanks
Charlie

 

[shady]

Just check and recheck your pinion angle.
Myself I'd set the weight back down on the perches before tacking them. To verify your angle doesn't change.

 

[swettysblazer]

Did you get the regular shackle flip or the zero lift one?

Also, normally the shackle flip moves the axle forward in these trucks. You may need to do a zero rate to get it moved back.

 

[CharlieC]

I’ve had the flip kit for about 6 years, so I’ve forgotten a few things, but it looks like I have the regular/non-zero version. I guess it would be nice if he put that comment in the Item description. I also have his perches with the multiple spring pin holes, have someone’s upper spring plate with 1” offset holes As well. I guess I’m somewhat good to go? Will an inch to the back get me centered again Or will I need the 1.5”?

Once the above is complete and I can measure, I’m ordering a new Tom Wood’s driveshaft with a double cardan joint at the t-case ( I do have the new yoke needed for the t-case). Since the slip will then be at the diff, my plan was to set the pinion angle for a straight line to the t-case yoke. (Good idea on weight bearing first) Is that right?

Thanks for the help!
Charlie

 

[swettysblazer]

I’ve had the flip kit for about 6 years, so I’ve forgotten a few things, but it looks like I have the regular/non-zero version. I guess it would be nice if he put that comment in the Item description. I also have his perches with the multiple spring pin holes, have someone’s upper spring plate with 1” offset holes As well. I guess I’m somewhat good to go? Will an inch to the back get me centered again Or will I need the 1.5”?

Once the above is complete and I can measure, I’m ordering a new Tom Wood’s driveshaft with a double cardan joint at the t-case ( I do have the new yoke needed for the t-case). Since the slip will then be at the diff, my plan was to set the pinion angle for a straight line to the t-case yoke. (Good idea on weight bearing first) Is that right?

Thanks for the help!
Charlie

Sounds like you have it covered. If I remember correctly, I moved my axle back 1.5" and it was good. You are correct on the driveshaft. With the double cardan, you are going to want the pinion pointed straight at the t-case minus a degree or two (torque under load).

Make sure you have the full weight of the truck on it. You can set the truck on the new perches and tack it that way. Just my .02