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Starting from scratch... just a frame and 10-bolts...

PhoenixZorn

1/2 ton status
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Mar 17, 2005
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West Allis, WI
Ok... so the 86 Frame is still sitting at the shop where we dismantled it. We ended up using the rear leaf packs to give a 3500 an add-a-leaf, so I don't have any rear springs anymore. The 356 is at the engine shop right now getting overhauled, and I might possibly put a TBI on it instead of a new carb. The tranny and t-case are currently sitting in my driveway waiting for me to clean them up and make them look new again.

At this point, I've decided to leave the Yukon stock... it will cost me far less to build the 86 into a buggy than to convert the Yukon to SAS, and lift it, and get tires, and suspension... bah... the frame-up job is the way to go. With the 356 having a TBI on it, I should be pushing into the 320hp/400ft-lbs range, and I'll be running the SM465/208 behind it. Of course, if I should happen to find a 205 and 203 range box before the driveline is installed, I'll triple stick it, but that's a bit dreamy.

What I need is the parts list for building this thing... I'll list what I have, and what I think I need, and you guys who have built a truggy/buggy can chime in and tell me what I should get instead of what's on my list... I want to build a capable wheeler/crawler, but keep it on a reasonable budget... that means no Atlas T-Cases, or Bulletproof 700R4s, or 4-link suspension (unless it can be had for less than a set of leaf springs...) The body will be full tube, a very flat belly, skinned with sheet metal and K5 Badged. Tube diameter suggestions are also needed by the way, since I'm a n00b with teh tube.

First, the things I already have:
  • 1986 K5 Frame with 10-bolt axles (they are just there to move the thing around...)
  • SM465 Manual Trans
  • NP208 Transfer Case
  • SBC 356cu in crate motor - 285hp/395ft-lbs (builder rated with Q-jet carb.)
  • 32" tires
Now the things I think I need... feel free to add, change, or remove anything from this list in your posts.
  • 1979 Ford D60 front axle
  • 198x GM 14B FF rear axle
  • 4.11 or 4.56 gears
  • 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers or ProComp XTerrains -- Suggestions welcome...
  • Recaro Racing seats (3)
  • Hydro-steering
  • Full tube family cage body
  • Full tubed, plated and rhino-lined bed for teh dogs and/or cooler packed with beer.
  • Custom shock mounts and bilstein 9100 shocks
  • High Angle driveline parts =)
  • Custom winch mount
  • 5-ton Pintle hitch front and rear
  • Head lights and Tail lights for road legality
  • Hobbyist plates so I don't have to worry about lift restrictions....
That's really all I can think of right now... Please add as much as you want or as little as you want, but do please give me suggestions... This will take me a while to get started, and a while to complete, so there is no rush, and I'm sure parts on this list will change frequently before all is said and done.
 
Is your NP208 drivers drop or are you getting a ford tcase to go with the ford front end?
 
if you do get a ford np208, make sure you source a fixed yoke one. Ford used both slip and fixed yoke 208s. I know some Broncos had the fixed... my dads 80s 3/4 ton ford truck has a slip yoke though...

j
 
bender
lots of tube
good welder
chop saw
notcher
tranny shifter
gauges
cheaper seats
steering pump
orbital
lines
wheel and quick disconnect
gauges
fuse block
fuel tank
plate for frame boxing
different air cleaner
sheet for body panels
fasteners
batteries
battery cables
winch
new shackles and spring mounts all around
heater
5 point harnesses
brake lines
bump stops
exhaust


This is just a start. I'll find my actual list later. Also, hi-pinions are cool but they're not worth the extra $ if you ask me. If you can find a good deal on a low pinion 60, go for it.

I don't know how collector plates work in Wisconsin but in MN there's no way I could get away with a buggy with collector plates...the law reads something like "if it didn't come with it stock...you don't need it" therefore if I rip the body off I'm still outside the realm of a registerable vehicle even though I know where the VIN is on the frame and still have the firewall plate off of my old rig.

Good luck man, I plan to 4 link my rear but my preliminary estimates are around $5k to get it up and trail ready...and that's starting now...not at the beginning of the project.
 
It wouldn't be collector plates... it would be Hobbyist plates... basically, if you build a vehicle from the ground up, you can get hobby plates and a new VIN issued...
 
PhoenixZorn said:
passenger drop... guess I need a 241 then...

Or you could just get a chevy D60....

I don't think the word buggy/truggy and the word budget should be used in the same sentence.
 
8_YOUR_H2 said:
I don't think the word buggy/truggy and the word budget should be used in the same sentence.

That's what I'm trying to get at. You can add up as many major costs as you can think of, but the little stuff WILL kill you. I'd take what you're planning to spend and double it...then add $500. You might be fairly close then.
 
Famous last words....


I could finish this thing if I only had an extra $1000 dollars. :D

$10,000 later.....
 
No inspection on Hobby cars here, and no emissions in my county... so... meh...

As for the cost, I know it's going to cost more than I am thinking now... but I was originally thinking $5k total, now I'm thinking $10K total... that's why I said it wouldn't start for a while... I need to find a second income source before I even think about starting...
 
If you're going to wait awhile, and you already plan on spending 5-10g's, I would wait until you have 3-5 grand saved up and purchase a completed or nearly completed project rig here on CK5 or elsewhere. Every few months there seems to be a rig for sale with all of the right parts already in place but in need of TLC. If you plan on building it yourself, I assume you're going to build something light enough to tow behind your 'hoe. I would look into a Toyota case, and possibly axles too depending on the tire size you want to run. On a lightweight rig with tires smaller than 38's (give or take) 1-tons are overkill. A 4.3 or SBC/ TH350/ Toy case with built toyota or 3/4 ton axles on 37's or 38's would be lightweight and relatively strong. If you're going 1-ton you're going to need 39's or bigger to get the same clearance. The price difference between 38's and tires bigger than that is significant. If you wait long enough you should be able to grab just about everything you need from the classifieds here at CK5. If a budget is important, I'd keep the leaf springs. If you are building a serious buggy, it appears that you may be better off building your frame from scratch. What do you want to do with the buggy? IMO, there is no replacement for lightweight. You can add strength (which is usually the expensive part) as you start to break stuff.
 
don't forget about the time investment either... I have 300' of tube, a bender etc and my truggy project is seriously dragging ass. Haven't got much done. Work and sleep are really getting in the way. ;)

j
 
Jek, how much of that tube do you plan on using? I've got 100' and I plan on 100-150' more, I didn't think it'd take 300 to get done. :eek1:

...and 85, as long as you're lookin at the thread, what'd it take you?
 
I have gone through 180 feet of tube but that includes screw ups. I also used the pieces from the jegs kit I bought so I would say total I have about 200 feet in mine.
 

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