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starting problem-IT STARTED! more Q's

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84gmcjimmy

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Hello.

I am still having problems with my 1984 GMC Jimmy.

I am starting a new thread because the old one is too long.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164388

When I go to start the truck with a "fullly" (battery charger says it has a full charge) it doesn't crank it just kills the battery. This would make you assume there is a short somewhere. Where do I start looking to track it down? The battery I am using is brand new and has only been used to attempt to start this heep.

This week I will buy new spark plugs as the old ones are quite dirty and black.

I haven't been able to take my gas tank out yet, all the ^@%#%ing bolts are rusted and seized so it's frustrating trying to get them loose. As mentioned in my previous thread the inside of the tank must be dirty and thats why it ran BAD when it did start.

Can anyone help. I really need to get this truck running again.

Thanks.
 
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What wiring should I look at?

How can I find out if my starter is working or not? I really don't want to replace it. My battery just keeps dieing. Could that be caused by the starter?
 
Disconect the starter and see if there is still a larger drain on the Batt. If the large battery drain is gone, have the starter tested. If it's still there, then look for melted/damaged wirring above the starter.

If you're handy with a DVM, you can disconect the batt and measure the resistance to gnd of the +bat wire. I think you're going to find a short.

KM
 
When you say DVM, is that a digital volt meter? OR what does it stand for?

I recently picked up a digital multimeter so I will try it out. I want to find the resistance of the positive battery cable?

When I dissconnect the starter, how do I check if there is still battery drain?

Sorry, I'm new to this stuff, so bare with me. :(
 
Yes, you are right with the acronym. :)

I also suggest checking to see what kind of draw you have on the battery with everything off. You typically need to move a lead on the meter to the empty terminal which is used for amps. The procedure for checking draw from the battery has been posted before.

If your battery has gone dead before, it's also likely that the cranking power is going to be severely weakened, and that can't be fixed but by replacing the battery.

If it won't crank even with a charged battery, either the battery is toast, (easy test for a draw from the starter is watching interior or headlights to dim when cranking) or the starter circuit is messed up...parts suggested previous.
 
Thanks. I am on this project again and trying to fix it.

The battery is brand new, it was just killed a couple times and needed recharging. So I don't think that is the case...

I do remember while cranking the inside light would dim...does this mean the starter is hooped?

I will mess around to see if I can figure the DVM out. Thanks
 
i believe the wiring goes like this
+ from batt to starter solinoid
- from batt to ground
then there should be two small + wires to the solinoid i forget witch post but a small one for sure some starters have 1 some have 2
make sure the wires aren't laying on the exhaust
 
Solved the problem. The NEW battery I bought had some kind of problem-talked to the store I purchased it from and they said it was hooped. Gave me a free replacement and it cranks like a kitten now.

BUT It doesn't start still...

help?
 
Steve are you getting fuel up to the carburetor? If you have a helper you can take the hose off at the carb and hold it in a big can. Have your helper crank the motor while you hold the fuel line in the can, it should pump fuel into the can. If you have no fuel at the carb it could be your fuel filter, fuel pump, or clogged pick-up in the gas tank.
 
James, a few months ago when I was working on it I tested it myself by taping a 2 litre pop bottle over the gas line and jumped inside to crank it a bit. Fuel did come out.

This truck is a ghost, I swear. It wouldn't start a couple days ago. NOW, this morning, second attempt it fired right up. I sat in there for agood five minutes at 1500-2000 RPM and it did well. Then I let it idle for a while, turned it off, checked things out, and restarted it. The gas guage was below "E" so while it was idling it quit-which I think is because it doesn't have enough gaas. It idles at ~400 rpm so I will have to adjust that a bit because it isn't steady and shakes the whole truck. I also do I need a new fuel filter; I took it out a few months ago and let it dry out on the fan shroud. Is it okay or should I replace it?

The only problem, besides the idle, is where I was almost 2 years ago with it...

The reeason I rebuilt the carb was because from an idle when I floored it, the whole thing hesitated and then reved up. NOW it's happening all over again. I think the accelerator pump is gummed up because that would cause the hesitation, right?

I will look through that book about the idle speed and see if I can squirt some carb cleaner around the linkages.

THNKS!
 
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Steve:

I'm gonna be at the property for 9 days starting tomorrow. Maybe I can spin into Cranbrook one evening next week and see if we can't figure out what's going on.
 
Okay sounds good, Paul. We will get in touch this weekend or early next week. I start working Wednesday until Friday then I will be gone July 8th and possibly July 9th.

Thanks
 
If it's a Q-jet then it sounds like a power piston problem. That's the one that your main rods hang off of, remember it from the rebuild? If you didn't stake it back in place very well it may have popped loose from the piston bore.
 
jiminycricket said:
If it's a Q-jet then it sounds like a power piston problem. That's the one that your main rods hang off of, remember it from the rebuild? If you didn't stake it back in place very well it may have popped loose from the piston bore.
Click to expand...

I think I remember it. I hope I put them in the right place, I will look in the rebuild book and see how much trouble it will be to check.

Thanks
 
You'd have to unhook the choke, unhook the accelerator pump, and pop the top making sure not to tear the gasket up around the power piston.

Wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help. In fact you might just want to ask some fellow Canadians for help right about now. There has got to be someone nearby that would be willing to lend you a hand.
 
jiminycricket said:
You'd have to unhook the choke, unhook the accelerator pump, and pop the top making sure not to tear the gasket up around the power piston.

Wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help. In fact you might just want to ask some fellow Canadians for help right about now. There has got to be someone nearby that would be willing to lend you a hand.
Click to expand...

Paul said he might come over sometime in the next 9 days. I still need to talk to him about it, find a good day. Unfortunately, it would be the first time meeting him (don't ask, long story) so it would be on the bad side to ask for help when I just meet him. Thinking.......
 
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