Staun the Claws or Beadlocked 2nd set

[carpeonnel]

I've been looking into beadlocks for when I finally get my k5 trail worthy and I've been torn on what to do. I like the idea of Staun internals, but the price tag of $200 a wheel I don't really like. I also like the idea of having a 2nd set of beadlocked wheels/tires I could just change out before wheeling. But if I go with them I'm pretty much looking at 2x what I would put into the stauns. So what do you guys think? Anybody using stauns now? Like em?

Also I don't really know if I'm liking the current wheel setup I have, 15x12 w/ 2.75in BS. They stick out pretty far

 

[Jimmy4matt]

Neither option seems very cheap, but if you're not in love with your current wheels, maybe it'd be a good idea to buy some beadlocked wheels that fit better. Why feel married to a set you don't like by buying the Staun's?

 

[carpeonnel]

yeah, i thought about getting new wheels for the claws. Was kind of thinking going to a 10in wide wheel w/ 4in bs and maybe Staun internals in them. But don't really like the idea of grinding my calipers, plus that's just more money for new wheels. It's not that I really don't like my wheels, but I'm just kind of worried about the shallow bs straining the front end, and the wide bastards eating the fenders.

 

[Avery4jc]

subscribed! I'm interested to get some feedback on the Stauns, although I'm not sure if anyone on here even runs them.
When it's time to go with beadlocks I'm going the Staun route... yeah it's a lot of money but hey they're a true double beadlock/runflat so it's hard to argue about the price.

 

[carpeonnel]

subscribed! I'm interested to get some feedback on the Stauns, although I'm not sure if anyone on here even runs them.
When it's time to go with beadlocks I'm going the Staun route... yeah it's a lot of money but hey they're a true double beadlock/runflat so it's hard to argue about the price.

Yeah I read alot about them and they seem pretty great, just the price tag is pretty steep. But since I don't have any beadlocks yet, it seems like a prime time to get some. Just don't know if it's worth it with the 12" wide wheel I'm running.

 

[Greg72]

subscribed! I'm interested to get some feedback on the Stauns, although I'm not sure if anyone on here even runs them.
When it's time to go with beadlocks I'm going the Staun route... yeah it's a lot of money but hey they're a true double beadlock/runflat so it's hard to argue about the price.

Avery.....you know ME!

I run the TireLocs (Staun is just a newer rip-off of that design) and I've had them since around 2003. They are an elegant and simple way to get a double-beadlock wheel. I've got a folder in my photo gallery that shows some of the details about them. VTBlazer runs the Stauns....I'm sure there are other people on here that do too.

I am always puzzled how people complain about the price of a TireLoc / Staun system...but seem comfortable spending money on a single-beadlock system which adds a ton of weight and doesn't even secure the inner tire bead. Life is all about choices, I guess.

 

[carpeonnel]

Avery.....you know ME!

I run the TireLocs (Staun is just a newer rip-off of that design) and I've had them since around 2003. They are an elegant and simple way to get a double-beadlock wheel. I've got a folder in my photo gallery that shows some of the details about them. VTBlazer runs the Stauns....I'm sure there are other people on here that do too.

I am always puzzled how people complain about the price of a TireLoc / Staun system...but seem comfortable spending money on a single-beadlock system which adds a ton of weight and doesn't even secure the inner tire bead. Life is all about choices, I guess.

well how do you like them? Pros/cons?

 

[TerryD]

http://www.innerairlock.com/

American made and 4wheel and Offroad tested them. they had some 38 SX's with 0psi laid over to where the wheel was touching the ground and they didn't let loose.

 

[carpeonnel]

DAMN! Those are alot cheaper than what I'd priced Stauns for my wheels at.

 

[randy88k5]

Thanks for the heads-up on that brand. I've kinda fallen out of the loop on a lot of the available products. I wanted Stauns several years back, but never got em. When I get around to fixing up the Blazer, InnerAirLocks will be added to the to-do list

 

[6.2Blazer]

I agree with the above post regarding the price. $200/wheel for the Stauns is right in line with buying a set of regular steel beadlock wheels, assuming you already have a set of rims you want to use.

Honestly not sure which way I would go (Stauns or regular beadlocked wheels). I would like to have something along those lines but they are pretty low on my list as I have yet to lose a bead on my non-beadlocked $60 a piece steel rims and run single digit air pressure. 78Buford runs the same type of rims for much longer with no lost beads either. These are both 15x8 2.75" BS rims on 39.5x15 and 42x15 Swampers.

 

[carpeonnel]

well, i'm pretty sure that when I air down with my 15x12 they'll probably gonna pop a bead at some point. So I'm just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to prevent that

 

[6.2Blazer]

well, i'm pretty sure that when I air down with my 15x12 they'll probably gonna pop a bead at some point. So I'm just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to prevent that

I would at least try some wheelin' first before shelling out a decent chunk of change for beadlocks. The one advantage you have is the reverse BS of those wheels which make it a lot harder to pop the outer bead.

 

[goofy1]

I am running the Stauns Just on the rear for now but plan on doing the fronts with inner air locks. I use my truck as a daily driver and they do not cause any more vibrations than I had before. I have also been using airsoft pellets for the ballancing duties. I got only one set because of the price and like I said will be getting the other 2 for the front. I mounted mine in the back because I installed them just before a weekend at the dunes and figured with the weight transfer to the rear they would do more good there. I ran 15 psi in the front (I have 16.5"rims with no 'safety' bead), and 3-5 psi in the back and they did great.
Now for the downside. I did spin a tire on the wheel (probably from a little too much tourque when burrying myself in the sand for fun) and got a small tear in the tube. The tire didn't go flat but I knew because the pressure went up to 15 psi and I lost that 'buldge'. The tire was fine and took me all the way home 250 miles without loosing pressure. The replacement tubes from Staun are NOT cheap, about $30 if I remember right. I searched for a cheaper replacement and found one to work from the atv/motorcycle shop for $12. I will be ordering the inner air locks because of the price, made in the USA, and the site says that tubes can be found at atv/motorcycle shops (probably the same as what I found) without a steep markup from Staun. Sorry to get long winded but I hope that this helps.

 

[wayne]

I've heard of some guys having problems with the Stauns. I'm not exactly sure what the problems were/are because I don't run them and really have no interest in them. I'll see if I can dig up some of the threads on them later. I do however run Walker Evans beadlocks and love them. I have even launched the truck and landed hard with no issues. I also never had a single lock ring bolt come loose. After almost 3 years and several thousand miles I have no complaints.

 

[Greg72]

well how do you like them? Pros/cons?

I love 'em...there's not much to criticize. Other than the original acquisition costs, I suppose.

The trick is that you have to keep the inner beadlock pressurized to at least a few pounds more than the outer at all times. So for my street pressure (about 18 psi) I need to make sure that the inners are at no less than 21 psi...otherwise the pressure from the outer tire will collapse them (this might be the issue where someone decribed "spinning" a tube). The only thing holding the beadlock and tube is the pressure differential between the inner bag and the outer "aired down" tire. Honestly it's not really much to worry about once you get it setup initially. As long as you don't have a leaking tube or valvestem it's not the kind of thing you really ever need to worry about. Just check the pressures once in a while when airing up at the trailhead.

I've been able to run down to 0 psi without issue....usually around 3 - 5 psi works well on the trail to help squish-out a 38" TSL on a relatively light (5000Lb) rig. You get a "run-flat" benefit with a TireLoc / Staun setup also....if you really tear a sidewall badly, you can still limp it back to camp because the bead will stay put, and you'll have an inner bladder with a reasonable amount of air to ride on.

Airing down is quicker too, since you only remove air from the "outer" part of the tire, not the whole thing. Airing back up is obviously also quicker than a conventional beadlock too.

Overall, there are some nice benefits to having them....don't forget, they are super light too, so it doesn't add a bunch of extra wheel mass...less inertia is always a good thing when it comes to reducing driveline stresses.

 

[carpeonnel]

I love 'em...there's not much to criticize. Other than the original acquisition costs, I suppose.

The trick is that you have to keep the inner beadlock pressurized to at least a few pounds more than the outer at all times. So for my street pressure (about 18 psi) I need to make sure that the inners are at no less than 21 psi...otherwise the pressure from the outer tire will collapse them (this might be the issue where someone decribed "spinning" a tube). The only thing holding the beadlock and tube is the pressure differential between the inner bag and the outer "aired down" tire. Honestly it's not really much to worry about once you get it setup initially. As long as you don't have a leaking tube or valvestem it's not the kind of thing you really ever need to worry about. Just check the pressures once in a while when airing up at the trailhead.

I've been able to run down to 0 psi without issue....usually around 3 - 5 psi works well on the trail to help squish-out a 38" TSL on a relatively light (5000Lb) rig. You get a "run-flat" benefit with a TireLoc / Staun setup also....if you really tear a sidewall badly, you can still limp it back to camp because the bead will stay put, and you'll have an inner bladder with a reasonable amount of air to ride on.

Airing down is quicker too, since you only remove air from the "outer" part of the tire, not the whole thing. Airing back up is obviously also quicker than a conventional beadlock too.

Overall, there are some nice benefits to having them....don't forget, they are super light too, so it doesn't add a bunch of extra wheel mass...less inertia is always a good thing when it comes to reducing driveline stresses.

Thanks for the input man. That's pretty much what I had read on different websites but I really wanted somebody's direct input that has been running them. Think I'm gonna go with them. thanks

 

[goofy1]

I love 'em...there's not much to criticize. Other than the original acquisition costs, I suppose.

The trick is that you have to keep the inner beadlock pressurized to at least a few pounds more than the outer at all times. So for my street pressure (about 18 psi) I need to make sure that the inners are at no less than 21 psi...otherwise the pressure from the outer tire will collapse them (this might be the issue where someone decribed "spinning" a tube). The only thing holding the beadlock and tube is the pressure differential between the inner bag and the outer "aired down" tire. Honestly it's not really much to worry about once you get it setup initially. As long as you don't have a leaking tube or valvestem it's not the kind of thing you really ever need to worry about. Just check the pressures once in a while when airing up at the trailhead.

I've been able to run down to 0 psi without issue....usually around 3 - 5 psi works well on the trail to help squish-out a 38" TSL on a relatively light (5000Lb) rig. You get a "run-flat" benefit with a TireLoc / Staun setup also....if you really tear a sidewall badly, you can still limp it back to camp because the bead will stay put, and you'll have an inner bladder with a reasonable amount of air to ride on.

Airing down is quicker too, since you only remove air from the "outer" part of the tire, not the whole thing. Airing back up is obviously also quicker than a conventional beadlock too.

Overall, there are some nice benefits to having them....don't forget, they are super light too, so it doesn't add a bunch of extra wheel mass...less inertia is always a good thing when it comes to reducing driveline stresses.

I actually spun the tire on the rim but never 'lost' the bead and had 45psi in the Stauns at the time when the tube ripped.

 

[Avery4jc]

well, i'm pretty sure that when I air down with my 15x12 they'll probably gonna pop a bead at some point. So I'm just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to prevent that

Have you ever aired down your claws? I ran 14psi up front and 8psi out back on my 15x10 steel rims and 38.5/15-15 claws and although they were just beginning to squat (they are really stiff) I never lost a bead.

 

[carpeonnel]

I aired down to 15 when I went to my hunting land and they squated a little bit but that's about all I've done. I've never ran this wide a tire on a 12in rim before but i just don't see them holding a bead very well. Are your's bias or radial? mine are radials.