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Steering arm on 84 chevy-how to get the mf off?

Use the Search, Luke. :D (The answer is penetrating oil, maybe some heat, and a hammer in that special place :haha: )

-- A
 
Hammer downwards, and side to side...never upwards. The washers under the nuts are split conical and will only seat harder if you hit from below upwards.

Side to side, and down...as soon as you see one look a little loose use the needle nose pliers to get it out. They will unthread (even though they're obviously not threaded.

The last 10 bolt arm I did took about 5 minutes.

Rene
 
I've removed them just like Rene said and have had them off within a couple minutes. No heat involved, just a few good whacks with a BFH downward and side to side and then lift those conical washers off and remove the arm.
 
I have had good luck hitting it right around the curve of the arm.. I guess you just have to find the spot. But every time I have done one it has come off pretty quick
 
Oh man I have to finish my lift this weekend,all I have left in the front it the arm....I hit it a few times and gave up and came home(it was almost dark anyway)
 
On my 87 K5 we beat on it for about HOUR and then heated it and beat it some more... after 2 days of no luck, we used a torch to cut and a air chisel.
... It was messy , we luckily didnt hurt the threads , i have some pics i will post a full build thread soon..

Lance
 
Sounds like you're trying too hard. Those tricky conical washers are your problem. I beat and beat on mine, but if you don't lift those washers off, you're just wasting your time. Try putting a chisel on the edge of the washer where it's sticking up out of the arm a little and tap it with a hammer. They should all three come up more easily than you think and then you can whack the arm with your hammer. That should do it. After I discovered this, I wanted to kick myself. Another thing you can do to loosen the arm is to removed the lock nuts and conical washers and turn the steering wheel back and forth a little, provided that your drag link is still connected and the truck is securely up on blocks. I wouldn't turn it too much though.
 
The best technique I've found is to loosen the three nuts until their surface extends a bit past the top of the studs. Spray the studs generously with penetrating oil and go get a cup of coffee, grab a beer, etc. Then come back and hit the top of the nuts smartly with a reasonably sized hammer (not a 12 lb sledge hammer).

You'll see after a few whacks that the conical sleeves are starting to move up the studs a bit. I will take a small screwdriver and wedge it in the sleeve opening, then essentially loosen the sleeve as though it were threaded.
 
Good idea. I can also tell you to torque the nuts on those 9/16" studs to 120 ft./lbs. and check them every month for the first 6 months or so. I forgot to do that on mine, and the front nut came loose over time and the stud ended up shearing in half when I tried to tighten it. It could have been dangerous if I had let it get worse. I had to drill it out and tap the hole, which was a pain in the butt. Also the new stud cost me over nine dollars.
 
andyblack said:
Good idea. I can also tell you to torque the nuts on those 9/16" studs to 120 ft./lbs. and check them every month for the first 6 months or so. I forgot to do that on mine, and the front nut came loose over time and the stud ended up shearing in half when I tried to tighten it. It could have been dangerous if I had let it get worse. I had to drill it out and tap the hole, which was a pain in the butt. Also the new stud cost me over nine dollars.
Click to expand...
Yeah I wish those had castle nuts , there kinda a important connection.
Yours and Wasatch K5 sound like great Ideas. Im going to try them tonight.
 
First I tried what every one said to do
Try putting a chisel on the edge of the washer where it's sticking up out of the arm a little and tap it with a hammer. -- removed the lock nuts and conical washers and turn the steering wheel back and forth a little, -- Spray the studs generously with penetrating oil and go get a cup of coffee -- hit the top of the nuts smartly with a reasonably sized hammer (not a 12 lb sledge hammer).
..... etc
Click to expand...
Then I took the drag link off,on accident, the nut was loose and my kid was turning the wheel and the DL poped off. :doah:
So then I hit the arm on the hole where the DL go`s , not very hard even ,and bang it poped half way off.. :)

Then i pulled and pulled on the cone washers... until I remembered to UNSCREW them :doah:

Now if I could just get the brake lines off..:rolleyes:
 
Geez Dafey,

You don't have rust in Roswell do you? Guy's up north DREAM about getting rigs from New Mexico.

Seriously, buy a set of flare nut wrenches. They are awesome for brake lines and bleeder screws.
 
HAHA I did buy a set , tonight :haha:
The hard parts I`ve never changed out a set before and I cant see behind the frame well enough . So Im having to do it by feel.
Can ya`ll give me any hints of anything. I already broke the pass side , dont wanna brake the drivers side. I know where to get hard lines cheap and quick now.Classic tube. Awesome help on the phone too!
 
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