CK5
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Steering block
- Thread starter Dabbas
- Start date
dont get the block= loosening studs and a lot more leverage on them.
get a drop pitman arm and bolt that on the steering box. then when you go crossover you can resell it for 1/2-3/4 the money you paid for it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJA-CA50/
and if you can find a 2wd steering box just go crossover since you got 4" or more of lift. much better in the end.
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edited for wrong words used .
get a drop pitman arm and bolt that on the steering box. then when you go crossover you can resell it for 1/2-3/4 the money you paid for it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJA-CA50/
and if you can find a 2wd steering box just go crossover since you got 4" or more of lift. much better in the end.
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edited for wrong words used .
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Thats a pitman arm
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/draglink.asp
Couple different ways to do it. Whatever you choose to run, check the steering block bolts often. I broke bolts driving on the damn street, then I went crossover. Stock push/pull steering sucks.
Thats a pitman arm
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/draglink.asp
Couple different ways to do it. Whatever you choose to run, check the steering block bolts often. I broke bolts driving on the damn street, then I went crossover. Stock push/pull steering sucks.
i meant pitman arm. will go fix. drop drag is worse in my book than block.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Crossover is totally the way to go. So much less breakage.
Or just do full hydro. Its not that expensive if you just do it that way from the beginning.
Or just do full hydro. Its not that expensive if you just do it that way from the beginning.
For the cross over
owenst7
1/2 ton status
It's really easy to make your own tie rods and drag links if you have access to a welder. Ideally, I like to use DOM (drawn over mandrel, i.e. cold worked steel) that has an inside diameter of 1". You can easily order threaded bungs that have a shoulder sized to tightly slip inside that 1" inside diameter, then you weld them in place, and thread the drag link/tie rod ends in to the bungs. I use 1.5" OD x .250" wall DOM for my drag link and 1.5"OD x .375" wall for my tie rod (because it gets smacked on rocks and any bigger in diameter would contact the differential cover at full steer).
I have no idea what kind of steel availability you have around there, but using heavy pipe could also be done. It is not as strong for our purposes because it is designed as a pressure vessel instead of a structural member, but many people have used it with success. HREW (hot rolled electronically welded, the same thing as DOM but without the cold rolling process, so it is considerably weaker) would be a better choice in most cases in my personal opinion.
I have no idea what kind of steel availability you have around there, but using heavy pipe could also be done. It is not as strong for our purposes because it is designed as a pressure vessel instead of a structural member, but many people have used it with success. HREW (hot rolled electronically welded, the same thing as DOM but without the cold rolling process, so it is considerably weaker) would be a better choice in most cases in my personal opinion.
x2
best thing ever..
x3..
my truck had a 3" block and a 4" S drag link.. and couldnt turn to save its life.. however i never drove it on the road..
now the truck is alot lower and ORD xover.. love that thing...
truck never turned so well
if you realy wana block i would sugest looking at offroad designs block thay sell just not a pic or price on the site.
i like it better by looks than the cast block and center spacer of everyone else. and ord uses arp studs.
pics of block and ord crossover arm for dana 60
i like it better by looks than the cast block and center spacer of everyone else. and ord uses arp studs.
pics of block and ord crossover arm for dana 60
There aren't pictures of it on the site, the block is $85 and the ARP stud kit is $59
