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steering box adjustment

Wicked Wolf Auto

Wicked Wolf Auto

1/2 ton status
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I've got a little play in my steering box so i started reading up on adjusting them and have a question. The process seems pretty simple, remove rag joint, remove locking nut, tighten adjusting collar to approx. 20 lb/ft, or snug and back off 1/2". But all of them say to remove the box complety...Why seems a hell of a lot easier to just do it with it installed on the truck...fill me in I don't want to pull it if I don't have to. Hell if i have to pull it I might as well throw a PSC on there :confused:
 
sweetk30, I'm going to quote you from another thread..."i got 2.5 turns out of that adjustment and fixed the problem in 10 min time. guy was so happy." did you do this with it installed on the truck or are you just super fast pulling the box?
 
i replaced the input shaft seal on mine at one point, when i reinstalled everything, this ring gear/nut was tightened up and that was one of the things i noticed was the steering was alittle tighter.

Box was installed on the frame for the whole process.

Now in the past, on a different car, i messed with the bolt and nut on the top, this was a big mistake, as it made the steering sticky, meaning you turn one way, and you had to force it back, no self centering. Don't mess with the smaller top nut setup. :doah:
 
alf4444 said:
sweetk30, I'm going to quote you from another thread..."i got 2.5 turns out of that adjustment and fixed the problem in 10 min time. guy was so happy." did you do this with it installed on the truck or are you just super fast pulling the box?
Click to expand...


that was the top adjuster not the input adjuster.
 
alf4444 said:
remove locking nut, tighten adjusting collar to approx. 20 lb/ft, or snug and back off 1/2".
Click to expand...

I just did a steering shaft mod, wish I knew.

I need to look closer later, but what is needed to remove the locking nut, just a regular wrench, anything special?

What about the adjusting collar... anything special to that?

When I had my shaft out, I didnt see ANYTHING like that, but then again... it was a bit cruddy and I wasnt looking for anything like that.

Scribed for more info, I got a touch of box slop Id like to tighten up a bit!
 
alf4444 said:
I've got a little play in my steering box so i started reading up on adjusting them and have a question. The process seems pretty simple, remove rag joint, remove locking nut, tighten adjusting collar to approx. 20 lb/ft, or snug and back off 1/2". But all of them say to remove the box complety...Why seems a hell of a lot easier to just do it with it installed on the truck...fill me in I don't want to pull it if I don't have to. Hell if i have to pull it I might as well throw a PSC on there :confused:
Click to expand...

Ok, the adjustment you're talking about (thrust bearing preload) is rarely where the "play" is coming from. The correct method for the adjustment you're talking about is exactly like you've described. For THIS adjustment you can do it in the truck but it is the overcenter adjustment that is usually the cause for "play" in the steering box and will require the box to be removed from the rig in order to properly do this adjustment and it will require a dial type INCH pound torque wrench to make the adjustment.
 
I am not sure, are we sporting a Saginaw box?

Would this diagram (frame 5) be accurate to our truck? I dont see an adjuster, but a "plug".

From:
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_2.html



PowerStrgGear%282%29.jpg
 
Yes, the adjuster plug is what gets tightened to 20 ft/lbs then backed off 1/2". The lock nut I simply use a large punch to remove it and also to tighten it back up when i'm done. The lock nut is supposed to be torqued to 80 ft/lbs but unless you buy a LARGE socket that nut isn't going to get torqued.

Here are the pages of info I use from a Mitchell Manual when i'm rebuilding/adjusting these boxes.

002.jpg

003.jpg

004.jpg

005.jpg

006.jpg
 
Here is a "cheat sheet" I made so I know which kit to buy regardless of whether someone has changed the input shaft from one size to another. I have also noted the location of where I drill and tap for hydro assist steering.

AC Delco 36-350340
(GM 19146539)
NOTES: Fits 1969-1978 7802644 flare fitting steering box with 1.125" OD input shaft bearing.
Input shaft inner seal 7817133, input shaft outer dust seal 5688229, input shaft bearing 8-146

AC Delco 36-350440
(GM 19146549)
NOTES: Fits 1979-1989 7802644L O-ring fitting steering box with 1.025" OD input shaft bearing.
Input shaft inner seal 7832426, input shaft outer dust seal 7852427, input shaft bearing ???

AC Delco 36-351160
(GM
NOTES: Fits 1985-1999
　
Drilling for hydro assist
Drill 1st hole on casting line 2.75" from adjuster plug
Drill 2nd hole 2.5" down from 1st hole 2.75" from adjuster plug
 
I made my own spanner socket from an adjuster plug from a junk steering box and I chucked it up in a lathe then machined the threads off of it and then welded a 1/2" drive socket to the opposite end of the adjuster plug then I pressed in some steel pins in the locations that would normally use a spanner wrench. I always drill out the holes in every steering box I build to the closest next larger size so my spanner socket fits easily. I can take a pic of the tool I made and post it if you want to see it. This tool will allow you to torque the adjuster plug per the spec versus using a spanner wrench that you cannot put a torque wrench on.
 
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These are Saginaw 800 steering boxes and they are used in many GM and Chrysler vehicles.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Ok, the adjustment you're talking about (thrust bearing preload) is rarely where the "play" is coming from. The correct method for the adjustment you're talking about is exactly like you've described. For THIS adjustment you can do it in the truck but it is the overcenter adjustment that is usually the cause for "play" in the steering box and will require the box to be removed from the rig in order to properly do this adjustment and it will require a dial type INCH pound torque wrench to make the adjustment.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll try the adjust the thrust bearing preload, since its easy, first. And move on to the other if it doesn't work. How about a quick tutorial on what exactly to do once I have it out. I'd rather just put a PSC in but don't have the cash for that and want to do this before BB Thanks in advance for the help!!
 
Yeah High, pls post a pic of that custom tool. (the metal one, not the flesh one)

Ive got one similar to this, an adjustable pin wrench/spanner wrench.
SL686139.jpg

I dont know if the pins are the right size, will check in the next day or two.




Let me ask this question..
If lefty loosey righty tighty, dont the diagrams/destructions appear to be LOOSING the adjuster plug??




.
 
u dont need to pull the box to adjust the preload. You just loosen the lock nut, back it off a bit and turn to the RIGHT the preload adjuster, usually an allen wrench. While holding it there, tighten back up the locking nut.

You normally turn it 1/2 a revolution/turn at a time.

If you get to the point where resistance is felt in steering, and return to center (RTC) is slow or non-exisitant, you adjusted too far, start backing it off.

Some twits will bottom it out, then back out a 1/2 turn... wrong way to do it.




I am interested with the adjusting plug at the input shaft, that sounds more logical of an adjustment. I did the preload on a truck before, It never made any improvement.
 
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