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Steering box bracing/frame boxing

dyeager535

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I've not had to deal with a cracked frame near the steering box.

After a long time, I see that frame boxing kits are available for the K5, and I will be getting one.

From what I can tell, if one were going to brace this area, it would need done before boxing. But do the cracks begin due to the frame moving, or from the amount of stress the box puts on that part of the frame? In other words, will frame bracing solve the problem, or is it prudent to do both before doing both is near impossible?

Talking about a pretty standard K5 used almost exclusively in non-"hardcore" conditions, with 33" tires.
 
@imiceman44 and I had a long conversation about this awhile back, and I sat down and talked with Stephen from ORD

The weld in box plate is for frame repair
The bolt in box brace they sell is for torsional control of the box. The arm turning is what pushed the box off the frame. So the steering of said box + suspension movements + tire/steering movements are what cause the frame to work. Adding “bigger and better” of those things adding the stress

Sounds like you don’t have cracks yet? I would still add the bolt in brace. I don’t know that you need the boxed frame, but owning a squarebody I know those frames aren’t exactly super
 
@imiceman44 and I had a long conversation about this awhile back, and I sat down and talked with Stephen from ORD

The weld in box plate is for frame repair
The bolt in box brace they sell is for torsional control of the box. The arm turning is what pushed the box off the frame. So the steering of said box + suspension movements + tire/steering movements are what cause the frame to work. Adding “bigger and better” of those things adding the stress

Sounds like you don’t have cracks yet? I would still add the bolt in brace. I don’t know that you need the boxed frame, but owning a squarebody I know those frames aren’t exactly super

Yes, looking at the bolt in style, it looks like it would be pretty tough to do with boxing the frame and crossmembers as is my plan.

This is kind of a project to see how much difference it makes. The roof popping and door binding even in my application would be pretty easy to evaluate before/after. I don't see a downside besides cost and time, but since I have a spare frame ready to be modified, I figure why not. Especially since I'll swap bodies at the same time, if I can find the right one.
 
Having the spare frame is awesome. How much of the frame are you going to box?
 
Having the spare frame is awesome. How much of the frame are you going to box?

Entire thing front to rear. Going to be a lot of figuring out how to deal with all the stuff that bolts together or is presently bolted inside the frame, but I'm ok with that.
 
Greg used another frame for the inner box part. Skunked’s has some blown up photo book pictures, but he’s usually pretty good at pandering himself for pictures
 
Since there is now a kit, I think a lot of the hassle has been removed from boxing. Obviously still going to be a bunch, but you'd have that even building another frame. If I had to cut plate and make it fit myself (and I did start, quickly realizing the difficulty) I wouldn't be so sure of doing this.

https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17750&cat=247&page=1
 
Yes, looking at the bolt in style, it looks like it would be pretty tough to do with boxing the frame and crossmembers as is my plan.

This is kind of a project to see how much difference it makes. The roof popping and door binding even in my application would be pretty easy to evaluate before/after. I don't see a downside besides cost and time, but since I have a spare frame ready to be modified, I figure why not. Especially since I'll swap bodies at the same time, if I can find the right one.
Yeah boxing takes a lot of work to do right.
Sleeves every spot you need to bolt through.
And it will make the frame stiffer but it could still benefit from a brace except it will need to be modified.
 
I would build a new frame before I boxed another squarebody frame.

And I have lots of pics of the boxing process.
 
What if someone had already cut the pieces to weld in?

That helps however you'll still spend a ton of time prepping/stripping the frame, trimming those pieces to fit and welding. No two frames are the same and nothing on these noodle frames is straight or flat. Then of course we get into all the crossmembers, fuel lines, brake lines, spring hangers etc. that normally mount and/or run inside the frame that need to be altered or replaced. I welded flange nuts inside the frame for the belly skid, rear hangers and welded brackets outside everywhere else. Several crossmembers were removed for 2x4 .250 for strength and simplicity when I boxed around them. Don't get me wrong, it made a huge difference and I've had several people ask about the lack of frame twist on the trail however it's highly unlikely that I'll do it again.

However the frame design can be improved alot so I would rather work with a stack rectangular tube and build my own.
 
Yes, definitely a lot to consider with this project.

I've considered making some sort of "caged" nuts for things like the trans crossmember and trailer hitch. Since I already had a spare frame I butchered, I plan to just box the rest of the stock crossmembers with that material, although I may add or replace a couple at the front and rear with tube.

I figure my plasma cutter will get a fair bit of use trimming things for access/fitment.

Luckily things aren't normally rusty up here, this frame required no prep except to remove the factory paint so I could weld it. But that prep is done already.

I'll be buying the mastercool flare tool kit, so making the brake and EFI fuel lines should be quite a bit of fun.
 
I'm sure you've considered this but a roll cage would stiffen up your truck quite a bit.
Is it less work? Maybe
 
Yep. Frame boxing is less effective than a cage, but I'm not interested in a cage either. If I can stop a good bit of the body stress with the boxing, I'll be happy.
 

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