beags86
Eastbound and Down
And Lots of lock tight 263...
CK5
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Steering box frame crack.
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I always check steering gear/box mounts when doing oil change, something I have done for 35 years. It is a documented inspection point for big trucks, which is done every 90 days in CA.
1st look at bolts for powdery rust or shinny spots around the head, then go on to at least put a wrench on them and pull, if they move then I go get a torque wrench, loosen all and retorque. I can probably count on 2 hands how many loose boxes I found.
1st look at bolts for powdery rust or shinny spots around the head, then go on to at least put a wrench on them and pull, if they move then I go get a torque wrench, loosen all and retorque. I can probably count on 2 hands how many loose boxes I found.
3inch (I think pretty sure) bolt on these one below with loctite to 75ft lbs and lock nut
Third one is done. This was a bit of bish because of the location and the ORD bolt on support. the stock size at 2inch (I think) so I used a 3inch I had and along with the stock spacer (which is shorter than the ORD ones with the kit) I had to use a few washers as I would run out of threads.
But it's in now with loctite and lock nut. If I get back to ace I may grab a shorter bolt and just re-do it. But for now it's fine.
Third one is done. This was a bit of bish because of the location and the ORD bolt on support. the stock size at 2inch (I think) so I used a 3inch I had and along with the stock spacer (which is shorter than the ORD ones with the kit) I had to use a few washers as I would run out of threads.
But it's in now with loctite and lock nut. If I get back to ace I may grab a shorter bolt and just re-do it. But for now it's fine.
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As you can see I had some space to eat up. So so with the stock spacer and a few washers I made up the difference where I ran out of the threads into the steering box. I may go get a 2 1/2 bolt and redo it at some point.
7/16x3-14 coarse thread you may need different lengths with 3 is what I had around and used
7/16x3-14 coarse thread you may need different lengths with 3 is what I had around and used
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So in summary,
Frame had cracks. Cracks repaired along with the addition of off-road designs Weld on kit along with their Bolt on support
Longer bolts used to get engagement through the box for the nuts. Bolts are 7/16x3- 14 coarse thread grade 8, were used with loctite and lock nuts along with washers were needed. This was done for as much support as possible for the steering box area. Not sure what else one could do to beef this weak point up but this is what I did. Torque is 75ft lbs were you can get it.
I would say do this regardless if you have cracks yet. It's wise and if you weld, it will be significantly cheaper that what it cost me.
I'd like to add the bottom bolt (towards the front of the truck, that stays stock where th ORD bolt doesn't bolt through. It's just the stock bolt and the stock spacer. I'd do that bolt first with the longer bolt and lock nut before putting on the bolt on brace.
The ORD bolt on brace makes it very cumbersome and downright more trouble than necessary or expected to tighten it down and use a lock nut. I skipped the lock nut on that bolt and just used a regular one with loctite. For me, there is enough thread left to double nut it if I choose to.
Frame had cracks. Cracks repaired along with the addition of off-road designs Weld on kit along with their Bolt on support
Longer bolts used to get engagement through the box for the nuts. Bolts are 7/16x3- 14 coarse thread grade 8, were used with loctite and lock nuts along with washers were needed. This was done for as much support as possible for the steering box area. Not sure what else one could do to beef this weak point up but this is what I did. Torque is 75ft lbs were you can get it.
I would say do this regardless if you have cracks yet. It's wise and if you weld, it will be significantly cheaper that what it cost me.
I'd like to add the bottom bolt (towards the front of the truck, that stays stock where th ORD bolt doesn't bolt through. It's just the stock bolt and the stock spacer. I'd do that bolt first with the longer bolt and lock nut before putting on the bolt on brace.
The ORD bolt on brace makes it very cumbersome and downright more trouble than necessary or expected to tighten it down and use a lock nut. I skipped the lock nut on that bolt and just used a regular one with loctite. For me, there is enough thread left to double nut it if I choose to.
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