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steering box question

surpip

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so i got my box out and tore apart
man there was alot of crud in there
anyway, how do i get the top cap off the sector shaft? and when i put it back together how do i set the preload on the shaft?
the directions on the rebuild kit are kind vauge
and any other tips i should know about, i am replacing the sector shaft seals, and the seal on the input shaft
 
To get the cap off of the sector shaft, remove the locknut in the center of the cap.

Setting the pre-load is pretty easy if you have the right tools.
The following adjustments must be made with drag link disconnected from pitman arm and flange removed from worm shaft.
Loosen lock nut and turn lash adjuster screw all the way in (clockwise), then out (counterclockwise) three turns. This will remove load imposed on worm bearings by close meshing of rack and sector teeth.
Using a socket on steering gear worm shaft, turn shaft from one stop all the way to the other carefully counting total number of turns.
NOTE: Do not turn hard against stops when drag link is disconnected as damage to ball guides may result.
Turn the shaft back one-half total number of turns to center position and using an inch-pound torque wrench, measure pull required to keep worm shaft in motion through center position. This should be 1-1/2 - 5-1/2 inch pounds. If indicated pull does not lie between given limits, make the following adjustments:
a. Loosen lock nut
b. Turn adjuster until required resistance to pull is reached.
c. Tighten lock nut and recheck pull. It must lie between limits specified after lock nut is tightened.

Note: Turn lash adjuster screw clockwise to remove lash and counter-clockwise to increase lash from gear teeth.

Here is the only tip I have......Don't misplace the balls.....or install them wrong
 
If you're not replacing the sector shaft but just need to remove it to make changing seals easier just center the steering box and remove the 4 cover bolts and pull sector shaft out with cover still attached to it, doing it this way also does not affect the adjustment although the adjustment should still be re-checked upon re-assembly.
 
well its to late for that now, its out, i just couldent get the cap off the shaft
im not sure i was to replace the inside stuff, but i may, just for peace of mind
i just wish i had a step by step so i dont screw it up
 
let me know what all is involved in replacing that input seal, I've got to do that soon, with the box still in the truck :deal:
 
Pray. And alternate them. They go dark, shiny, dark, shiny. Use some grease to hold them all in the nut so you can turn the worm shaft back in.
 
If you don't have the box completely apart at this point you now will have to take it apart to fix it. Ask me how i know. :D This is what ended up makig me figure out how to rebuild steering boxes and also made it much easier to drill and tap for hydro assist. I have since learned how to drill and tap without having to take the box apart, only the end cap and the input shaft need to come out. :thumb:
 
well ****tty
steering box one, dale 0!!
rebuilding it was easy, but it just doesn't work, i think it was jacked up to begin with, the valve spool just didn't fit right, but oh well, ill order one tomorrow.

putting the balls in was wicked easy, you just slide the shaft in, and put all the balls that will fit around the shaft,(wow, did i just say put the balls around the shaft? humm anyway) than you put the rest of the balls in the split "U" on hold the just the 2 at the tops of the u in with a little grease, and install the "U" took me like 5 min to do it all.
 
The spool valve can be tricky, it likes to slip off the pin and not allow the input bearing housing to screw on all the way.
 
cbbr said:
I sent you a PM - complete diagram.
would you mind sharing that diagram with me too? I don't yet have my box apart and after reading this I may just buy a new or reman one anyway, but I'll probably take a stab at rebuilding it first! Steering Box Losers Club here I come!

Thanks!
 

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