Steering Box Question

[mr_blasto]

I am putting in a 2wd steering box, but it is really stiff. I couldn't move the pitman arm by hand, so initially I thought it was seized. I put the biggest wrench I have ever used (1-5/16") on the nut on the output shaft and could then move it fairly easily with the added leverage.

This is a rebuilt box I got off ebay about 4 years ago. There are caps where the power steering lines go, so there isn't any fluid in there at the moment. I read other threads about how terrible rebuilds can be, so I didn't know if this was considered in spec or too stiff. Would adjusting the sector shaft via the nut on the cover have any effect on how freely the shafts move? Will it loosen up over time? The only thing I have to compare it to is my 40 year old steering box, which moves pretty freely. Just trying to get this sorted out ASAP.

I don't have the time, know how, or tools likely needed to rebuild this myself, so it's either run it as is, make some minor adjustment, or buy another rebuilt piece (which I really don't want to do).

 

[toomany]

I think that is how they are supposed to be. Every one that I have tried turning by hand has been hard. Turning the output end of anything is usually harder than turning the input. How easily does it turn if you put something onto the input splines?

 

[mr_blasto]

I can't turn the input shaft by hand, but if you say they are normally pretty stiff, I'll take the next step and mount it to the steering shaft and let you know. It's obviously easier to work on it off the truck than in it, so I just wanted to make sure there was nothing I should tweak before putting it in. Sounds like it will be fine, so back outside I go!

 

[gotblazers]

according to what my automotive teacher taught me it should not be that tight and you can adjust it by the nut on the sector shaft. There should be no play in the pitman arm when its in the middle of its 180 degree range of motion.

if 4x4high see's this im sure he will also be able to help even more than me as i saw him take one apart in 10 minutes flat while explaining all the parts functions to me and another guy from ck5.

 

[mr_blasto]

Yeah, I was reading some of his other posts about steering boxes, he seems to know his stuff. I have it bolted into place now, but the input shaft is a different diameter (smaller) than the input shaft of the box I took out. So I either have to buy a new coupler that will work or swap the input shafts, but I think swapping the input shafts would be more involved than I am looking for at this point.

I searched napa online and can't seem to find a coupler, but I know they have to have tem. The other possible problem is that my power steering lines use a flared end and I don't know if my box is intended to be used with o-rings or flared lines. Is there an easy way to tell? I don't know how easily I could look in the holes now that it is mounted, and even if I did look in the holes, I don't know if I would be able to tell a difference. If I run over to napa to sort all this out, do I just need lines from a newer style pump, or what?

I am a total noob with all this, but it's fun to learn. Any help is appreciated.

 

[76zimmer]

search for the XJ shaft upgrade, and do away with the rag joint. The flared style will have a tapered seat in the box where the line will screw into. The o ring style is pretty much straight in the bore in the box.
be careful adjusting the box by the screw on top, this can easily mess up the play of the shaft and gear. There is a very specific procedure that should be followed for setting up a box.

 

[mr_blasto]

This is super, I definitely have a steering box designed to be used with o-ring fittings instead of flared fittings like I have. I'll going to try check out the xj shaft thing to see if that will solve at least one of my problems. In the mean time, I need to look for a new power steering line that will work with my old pump and my new box. If anyone knows the application, or part number to shop around for, that would be helpful.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Ok, I have rebuilt MANY of these boxes. You've already discovered that you have the wrong box for your year truck. Don't worry just yet as there is a cure for that. Lets get back to how hard it is to turn, you need to be turning the input shaft and NOT the output shaft (sector shaft). When properly set-up the steering box should only take less than 10 inch pounds of force to rotate the input shaft overcenter. Basically with an appropiately sized socket (17mm in this case) and a standard length 3/8" drive ratchet you should be able to turn the input shaft very easily (without a draglink attached).

Now, how to mate this newer box to your older P/S pump, remove the high pressure fitting from the rear of the pump and then hit the wrecking yard and pull another fitting from a 1981-later truck with O-ring style lines and put it into your pump and then run the later O-ring hose between your pump and the new steering box. While you're at the wrecking yard also grab the rag joint from the steering box of which you're removing the P/S pump fitting and use it on the new steering box. In order to use the XJ steering shaft your steering column must be the double D shaft and not the earlier splined steering shaft.

 

[mr_blasto]

Ya, the XJ route is out for my '72. It seems some have gotten it to work using a lathe and mill - I have neither.

4x4high, thanks for the pointers. I just located a yard that has about an '86 2wd big block suburban. I am going to check them out in the morning cause they are closed now, but I would think the fittings and coupler/rag joint should work. Any reason to think they wouldn't?

 

[4X4HIGH]

Should work no problem, forgot to add that you need to grab the return hose that threads into the steering box as well since it should be a short piece of tube that is O-ring and then has rubber return hose clamed to it that goes back to the P/S pump.

 

[mr_blasto]

I went to the nearest dismantler, they didn't have anything that would work. I called a few other yards, and no one has a mid to early 80's chevy truck. I went on car-parts.com and found a few yards that have the steering boxes (so they likely have the coupler and hoses too).

I was a bit concerned cause I stopped by napa and autozone to see if they have the parts, and they don't have the coupler. I looked at hoses at autozone, and none of them had an o-ring on them. I started thinking what a head ache this would be if started tracking everything down and then had to track down some orings too.

Long story short - I found a yard about an hour away that has a 2wd steering box and coupler out of a '74 c10 for $50. I figure I can use the flared hoses, not deal with o-rings, and get a coupler all in one stop. So off I go.

Anyone need a steering box from what seems to be an early 80's 2wd pickup?