Steering box return to center: what sets it?

[dremu]

As subject. My K5 is prone to wandering, since I went to a 2WD sector shaft, crossover, moved the front axle, etc. I had to do it all at once, so I've no idea what specifically causes this ... but I don't like it.

The nut on the steering box sets how tight the thing is *at* center, right ... but what causes the box to want to come back to the middle?

NB: I have added shims to the axle and the caster is about right ... IIRC, it's 8*-10*, but it's been a while since I set it. The steering's been bad for a while... just haven't gotten around to addressing it.

-- A

 

[odin]

Caster is what returns the wheel when you steer. 8-10 deg sounds high. I set mine when I did the link front susp to 5 degress positive caster and the wheel centers itself and the truck is nice and straight.

 

[tRustyK5]

Return to center has nothing to do with the box...the box could care less where it is. Return to center is all about caster angle, toe-in/out etc etc.

Rene

 

[dremu]

Guess that saves me fiddling with the box, that's good. I hate those things.

Went and checked my notes and ran out and stuck the angle finder on the truck ... originally it was ~10*, put some 4* shims on it so it's 5-6* now.

So if the caster's about right, I could adjust the toe-in, counting tie-rod turns very carefully

If I shrink the tierod, which I guess would increase the toe-in angle, does that cause more, or less, return-to-center?

Thanks guys!

-- A

 

[tRustyK5]

Loaded question Aaron...it really depends on what your toe currently is. If you're badly toed out right now, toeing it in will improve feel and return to center. Too much toe in will cause a pretty dead feeling 'center'...as well as a lot of unnecessary tire scrub.

Break out the tape measure and see where you're currently at...then adjust from there. Too much toe in either direction isn't going to make it feel better.

Rene

 

[4X4HIGH]

Like everyone already said, caster angle and toe adjustment are what affect return to center. Now if you have hydro assist then all bets are off as you no longer have any return to center.

 

[tRustyK5]

I don't have hydro assist Scott, but it would seem to me as long as there isn't any input from the driver that the steering should still 'return to center' even with hydro assist. With no steering input there should be no pressure on either side of the cylinder, unless i totally misunderstand the way it all works.

Full hydro should even have some 'return to center', although it may be greatly reduced.

Rene

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Full hydro should even have some 'return to center', although it may be greatly reduced.

That depends on the steering unit (orbital valve, as many people call them). Most that are used in 4WD applications return to center based on the caster of the axle just like the OEM steering.

There are steering units that don't return to center. That means that they stay steering exactly where you leave the steering wheel. Very few people use them on 4WD rigs.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I don't have hydro assist Scott, but it would seem to me as long as there isn't any input from the driver that the steering should still 'return to center' even with hydro assist. With no steering input there should be no pressure on either side of the cylinder, unless i totally misunderstand the way it all works.

Full hydro should even have some 'return to center', although it may be greatly reduced.

Rene

I'm not exactly sure how it works but i can guarantee you there is no return to center after installing hydro assist. At least on my rig when i did nothing but add hydro assist to my already existing crossover i lost return to center. It's not really that big of a deal but just don't expect the steering to come back after a turn or you'll be in trouble. I do know though that with full hydro steering there are some orbital valves that still allow "some" return to center.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I'm not exactly sure how it works but i can guarantee you there is no return to center after installing hydro assist. At least on my rig when i did nothing but add hydro assist to my already existing crossover i lost return to center. It's not really that big of a deal but just don't expect the steering to come back after a turn or you'll be in trouble. I do know though that with full hydro steering there are some orbital valves that still allow "some" return to center.

Maybe only on your setup. I have hydro-assist (1.5") on mine and the return-to-center doesn't feel any different than it did before. Granted a hydro cylinder will absorb a little of this because it takes some force to move it in and out even if no pressure. I'm sure as the cylinder gets bigger it absorbs more.

 

[dremu]

To hijack my own thread I turned my tierod in a bit, and between that and replacing the shocks, it's much better, such that I can actually drive the thing on the street =))

I know it's not real scientific, Rene, but when I put the 52"s in I had it aligned at the shop -- I had amazing death wobble at 15-20MPH and up -- and I seem to recall that they set it to fairly neutral at that time.

-- A

 

[NV_K5]

That depends on the steering unit (orbital valve, as many people call them).

X2 - valving in the pump IMO.

 

[Mike D]

Just a thought. Put your truck on a concrete street, open the hood and turn the steering wheel L and R ( engine on ) while a friend looks at the steering box. The box or the frame may be flexing a little with those big tires. Even a little flexing could translate into road wander. If they are, retighten the box bolts and beaf up the frame.

 

[dremu]

Just a thought. Put your truck on a concrete street, open the hood and turn the steering wheel L and R ( engine on ) while a friend looks at the steering box. The box or the frame may be flexing a little with those big tires. Even a little flexing could translate into road wander. If they are, retighten the box bolts and beaf up the frame.

Bolts are good, ORD brace is installed, DLE's and TRE's are new with the crossover, as are the balljoints. I should double-check the box-to-frame mounting, though, you're right.

-- A

 

[Blue85]

If the box controlled the "center" then we would have to adjust the box/column first and then set the drag link and tie rods later to do an alignment. Typically it's done the opposite way. You can even pull the steering wheel and re-center it once everything else works well. The truth is that the wheels try to center themselves based on gravity and road forces (through caster / toe/ camber) and the box doesn't care.

Now with Electric power steering, many more things are possible (and on the road today), including active return to center.