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Steering Box Seals

Chief Brody

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1974 Blazer (power steering) steering box is leaking down on top of the leaf spring and dripping off the spring leaf bushing...

I cannot see where it is leaking from on the top side...is there a replaceable seal in the pitman arm shaft that can be replaced?

Has anyone removed their steering box before and replaced the seals?

Just trying to get a little help before I tear into it so I know whether to attempt to replace seals or just get a new steering box.

I can't get in there to see real well yet because my dinky little floor jack won't lift the Blazer...I have to get a real floor jack and I am broke right now...jack will cost more than the steering box.
 
There is a seal and dust shield on the input shaft, there are 2 seals (single lip AND a double lip) on the sector shaft, then there is also an O-ring on the top cover plate for the sector shaft (some use just an O-ring while others are a steel shim with an O-ring attached, either is correct and work). The sector shaft seals you'll probably need to remove the sector shaft and use some form of driver to remove the sector shaft bearing and both seals and spacers at the same time as the seals together are probably about 3/4"-7/8" thick when stacked and it's doubtful you'll be able to pry the inner most seal out.
 
Kragen/Oreiley's/Shuck's carries the complete seal kits with piston rings, etc. It's about $35-$40.

Napa does carry them too, but their kits don't come with the sector shaft cap seal for some strange reason. They're also about $15 more. They apparently do not even carry that seal for some strange reason...gets frustrating when I see Napa's quality going downhill like that.

You could replace those seals without pulling the box if you really wanted to. I'd pull the inner fender and the tire off. Then, unscrew the 4 9/16" bolts on the corner of the sector shaft cap. Leave the 5/8" nylock in the center alone, that adjusts the preload on the sector shaft bearing. Once you get the 4 bolts off, tap the bottom of the sector shaft with something like a dead blow or rubber mallet while wiggling it. It will start to push that aluminum cap up and off of the top of the box, you just have to overcome the friction of the seals on the bottom of the box. Once you get the sector shaft out, remove the circle clip and use a flathead screwdriver to pry the two seals out of the bottom. There are two washers in there too (the seal kit should have a half-assed exploded view of the box in it).

Use a socket and tap the new seals in (make sure you orient them correctly and put the washers in right) after you lube everything with some PS fluid. You may want to wrap the very bottom of the splines of the sector shaft with masking tape to keep from damaging the new seals if you can't see very well, but make sure you don't go too far up the shaft and don't wrap it more than once or sometimes it will get stuck because the seals fit really tight.

Rebuilding the whole box really isn't even all that difficult.

There is a seal and dust shield on the input shaft, there are 2 seals (single lip AND a double lip) on the sector shaft, then there is also an O-ring on the top cover plate for the sector shaft (some use just an O-ring while others are a steel shim with an O-ring attached, either is correct and work). The sector shaft seals you'll probably need to remove the sector shaft and use some form of driver to remove the sector shaft bearing and both seals and spacers at the same time as the seals together are probably about 3/4"-7/8" thick when stacked and it's doubtful you'll be able to pry the inner most seal out.

You don't need to mess with the bearing to do the seals. Just need to pry it one one side, then the other, go around in a circle, etc like doing hub seals. Might need to tap on the screwdriver lightly with a small hammer. Just be careful and work slowly. I wouldn't try to drive everything out at once because you would be hitting it so hard, I think the very thin bearing race would get destroyed and possibly chew up the housing. Those seals have a lot of friction, as does that bearing that's about an inch long. I haven't heard good things about rebuilt boxes, so I always just rebuild them myself because it only takes a couple hours and is under $50 if you don't need new bearings (haven't had one yet that needed them, and I've heard most of the remans don't have new bearings anyway).

I think Napa may have carried a seperate main seal kit for like $15 that had the shaft seals...that may have had a cap seal too, but I'm thinking back to something the parts guy showed me a long time ago when I was trying to get the master seal kit. Pretty sure there are main seal kits available, which should have the three seals we're all talking about and probably a new o-ring for the piston cap.

Two very helpful writeups:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0801_saginaw_steering_box_rebuild/index.html
 
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has anyone done the sector shaft seal while in the truck?

its cake, ill explain later when im not holding a crying baby
 
You don't need to mess with the bearing to do the seals. Just need to pry it one one side, then the other, go around in a circle, etc like doing hub seals. Might need to tap on the screwdriver lightly with a small hammer. Just be careful and work slowly. I wouldn't try to drive everything out at once because you would be hitting it so hard, I think the very thin bearing race would get destroyed and possibly chew up the housing. Those seals have a lot of friction, as does that bearing that's about an inch long. I haven't heard good things about rebuilt boxes, so I always just rebuild them myself because it only takes a couple hours and is under $50 if you don't need new bearings (haven't had one yet that needed them, and I've heard most of the remans don't have new bearings anyway).

I think Napa may have carried a seperate main seal kit for like $15 that had the shaft seals...that may have had a cap seal too, but I'm thinking back to something the parts guy showed me a long time ago when I was trying to get the master seal kit. Pretty sure there are main seal kits available, which should have the three seals we're all talking about and probably a new o-ring for the piston cap.

Two very helpful writeups:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0801_saginaw_steering_box_rebuild/index.html

I've rebuilt a couple dozen of these boxes now and you will have a hard time removing the inner sector shaft seal. Also if you have the proper sized driver you will not damage the bearing at all. When I rebuild these boxes I remove the bearing, both seals and the seal spacers all in one shot with a bearing driver and have yet to damage a bearing. I do however replace both bearings in every box I rebuild but i've taken the bearing after i've removed it and checked the fit with the sector shaft and there isn't any issues.
 
Sounds like it would be easier to remove the box from the truck....how big a deal is that? Can you do that without removing inner fender and stuff?
 
I've rebuilt a couple dozen of these boxes now and you will have a hard time removing the inner sector shaft seal. Also if you have the proper sized driver you will not damage the bearing at all. When I rebuild these boxes I remove the bearing, both seals and the seal spacers all in one shot with a bearing driver and have yet to damage a bearing. I do however replace both bearings in every box I rebuild but i've taken the bearing after i've removed it and checked the fit with the sector shaft and there isn't any issues.

Regardless, he doesn't need to mess with that bearing if the bearing is OK. I have never had difficulty removing either of those seals, nor has anyone I know. That bearing is difficult to source in my region, and it's not like the bearings in a steering box see wear like the other bearings on a truck. The article I posted from 4wheeler did it my way, and the pirate writeup did it your way, either works obviously, but the guy's on a budget and doesn't sound that confident about it. If the bearing is fine, I think it's better advice to avoid that route.

Sounds like it would be easier to remove the box from the truck....how big a deal is that? Can you do that without removing inner fender and stuff?

Four bolts, 2 fittings, two bolts on the rag joint, and the pitman arm. Although, if removing the box is concerning you, you might just want to consider a new box. No, you don't have to remove the inner fender, it just gives you more room and it's only held on by 5 (maybe it's 6) easily-accessible bolts.
 
sorry if this has been covered but, to remove the sector shaft seals while box still on truck

Remove Pitman arm
remove Snap ring under arm,

place nut back on sector shaft with out pitman arm.

place drain pan under steering box

Start truck and turn steering wheel until seals blow out and then turn truck off. the nut will keep everything from blowing everwhere

Whola, the seals just came out.

i use a pipe to re-install the new ones.


Hope this helps
 
sorry if this has been covered but, to remove the sector shaft seals while box still on truck

Remove Pitman arm
remove Snap ring under arm,

place nut back on sector shaft with out pitman arm.

place drain pan under steering box

Start truck and turn steering wheel until seals blow out and then turn truck off. the nut will keep everything from blowing everwhere

Whola, the seals just came out.

i use a pipe to re-install the new ones.


Hope this helps

Had trouble hearing this over the sound of the awesomeness. Never would have thought of that.

It's like all the years when I would struggle to tighten the cam-lock tie downs on an atv or sled. You're always kneeling in the mud or snow to get a good angle, or getting you're buddy to jump on the suspension. One day, I saw a guy run the strap upside down, stand on the rack, and pull up on the slack.
 
Yep, doesn't matter which way he removes the seals as long as he can get them out without doing any damage to the box itself where the seals go.

You should have no trouble buying a full rebuild kit for these boxes (in your neck of the woods) if you ever need one. AC Delco 36-350340 (GM 19146539) covers 1969-1978 and AC Delco 36-350440 (GM 19146549) covers 1979-1989. These kits have EVERYTHING in them. Not sure on cost though were you live but here I can get either kit for $35.00-$38.00.
 
Yep, doesn't matter which way he removes the seals as long as he can get them out without doing any damage to the box itself where the seals go.

You should have no trouble buying a full rebuild kit for these boxes (in your neck of the woods) if you ever need one. AC Delco 36-350340 (GM 19146539) covers 1969-1978 and AC Delco 36-350440 (GM 19146549) covers 1979-1989. These kits have EVERYTHING in them. Not sure on cost though were you live but here I can get either kit for $35.00-$38.00.

My Napa here in Reno is terrible, and the GM dealership isn't very helpful either. Those Delco part numbers are awesome though, wish I'd had those a long time ago, cuz I've bought several Napa seal kits for $50-$55.

The Napa here isn't that bad for stock, and Sac has everything else 1-2 days away, but the employees there are just useless. Without a part number, I'm better off grabbing the book and finding things myself, cuz they just say "can't find it on the computer".

Other day I left without a power steering belt because the guy couldn't find me a new one, despite having the belt I just pulled from the truck, and another brand new Goodyear belt with the cardboard still. Kept bringing me ones that were too long (he even justified it by saying maybe my belts were stretched out...in which case he should bring me one that's shorter), finally I just went to Kragen because they let me go in the back and find it myself.
 
I have my own catalogs for suspension, brakes, bearings, seals, u-joints, P/S hoses and seal kits, full rebuild kits so i'm pretty prepared. IIRC my brake books have me covered from 1925-2008
 
sorry if this has been covered but, to remove the sector shaft seals while box still on truck

Remove Pitman arm
remove Snap ring under arm,

place nut back on sector shaft with out pitman arm.

place drain pan under steering box

Start truck and turn steering wheel until seals blow out and then turn truck off. the nut will keep everything from blowing everwhere

Whola, the seals just came out.

i use a pipe to re-install the new ones.


Hope this helps

That's how I did mine. Worked great.
 
sorry if this has been covered but, to remove the sector shaft seals while box still on truck

Remove Pitman arm
remove Snap ring under arm,

place nut back on sector shaft with out pitman arm.

place drain pan under steering box

Start truck and turn steering wheel until seals blow out and then turn truck off. the nut will keep everything from blowing everwhere

Whola, the seals just came out.

i use a pipe to re-install the new ones.


Hope this helps


How big is the shower spray from this? Do I need to setup a "kill site" like Dexter...or is it minimal?
 
oh, its not bad at all. It will leak out the bottom, but its not like a giagantic spray or anything, it will just go down on the springs and into the bucket.

Now if you forget to put the nut back on.....your on your own. i could see a mess in your future

happy seal changing
 
I ordered the rebuild kit....one more big adventure for me.

Two big things I want to get accomplished asap are the leaks....leaking steering box and the leaking transmission....I'm tired of all the leaking :eek1:
I'm ready to drive this thing to work and I won't do it with it leaving a pool of fluid in the parking lot....
 
Got the rebuild kit today...odd that the picture on the website showed a bearing in there...but this one doesn't have it.

DSC_00020001.JPG
 
What brand is the kit and the part number?

I got the Gates 351120

I am debating on whether to just replace that seal that is on top near where the steering column is if that is the only place it is leaking from. Then I wouldn't have to remove the steering box.

Somebody said earlier that the bearing is rarely worn anyway and that I probably wouldn't need to worry about it.
 

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