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Steering Box Weld in Frame repair Kit

1-ton

1-ton

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I bought a Smitty Built weld in frame repair kit of off Ebay for $65 (shipping included). The question I have is about welding it in. I have a Lincoln 140 AMP Mig welder. Should I weld the frame repair kit using my welder in Flux Core mode, or should I Mig weld it with Argon gas?


SMT-CC100.jpg
 
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I always just use gas as I have it .

I have done a few of them before both 140 amp or BIG boy welders .

the 140 just needs to be turned up near the top and few test runs and good to burn in .

also drill out the ends of any cracks to prevent further movment of crack . V them out weld up and grind flat on outside

and also step up to a ord bolt in brace kit to make it 2x better .
 
sweetk30 said:
I always just use gas as I have it .

I have done a few of them before both 140 amp or BIG boy welders .

the 140 just needs to be turned up near the top and few test runs and good to burn in .

also drill out the ends of any cracks to prevent further movment of crack . V them out weld up and grind flat on outside

and also step up to a ord bolt in brace kit to make it 2x better .
Click to expand...
He already has the bolt in brace and I believe the weld in brace is being installed as a preemptive measure. It's a beautiful truck, with a perfect frame.

Oh, and I've welded them both ways. With a low powered machine I would be tempted to use flux core because you will have better penetration. You can also preheat with a torch and use big clamps to get the plate to fit better.
 
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ChrisPerry said:
He already has the bolt in brace and I believe the weld in brace is being installed as a preemptive measure. It's a beautiful truck, with a perfect frame.

Oh, and I've welded them both ways. With a low powered machine I would be tempted to use flux core because you will have better penetration. You can also preheat with a torch and use big clamps to get the plate to fit better.
Click to expand...

My Lincoln Mig welder instructions do say that flux core is what should be used for thicker gauge steel welding, in order to get max penetration out of that little 140 AMP Mig. Because I am not the most experienced welder in the world, I was not sure what method I should use.

Thanks again Chris for that Dana-60 crossover unit you sold me. I wire wheeled, de-greased, and painted all the parts. The whole set-up looks like new again. I also got all new grease zirk fittings and grease boots for it as well. I am lucky to have snagged that cross-over unit from you because several times in the past when an ORD Dana-60 cross-over unit hit the used parts board, it was gone in a few hours. Now I will have a cross-over set up for half the money it would have cost me if I had bought it all brand new from ORD. You are correct about the frame...luckily, it has no cracks in it because my 1991 V3500 crew cab never went off road much in it's life.

P.S Also, I got that engine and transmission you saw in the my truck now.
 
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It's never good to weld across the frame if you can help it.

It sets up dissimilar radial stresses that can cause more cracking and it also generates a weak spot that runs around the frame now and that's never a good thing to do. It's kinda like perforating the frame to tear there again.

Check this very obvious example of stresses from welding across or around a frame:
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/at...se-frame-calculation-longt-weld-shrinkage.jpg

Drill the ends of the cracks if you like but I always weld just in parallel to the frame run.... IOW: from front-to-back along the length of the frame.

This is some very pretty and functional welding NOT crossing over the smaller diameter of the frame: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_fjNDCoCmnIk/TQMd56ICjYI/AAAAAAAAAe8/O_ls8436_UE/s1600/frame-tab.JPG

You're trying to make the potential break point stronger, not set up another potential failure site.
 
Most of the Steering box weld in repair kits come with a stitch weld diagram showing where to weld it. Your reply does bring up one new question I have about welding this frame repair kit. In the picture you posted it looks like where the two frame repair pieces butt-up together, they are welded both together and to the frame...instead of just to the frame like where the two frame repair pieces do not meet. Would this be correct?
 
I weld the side plate on first. Then the bottom one gets welded wherever it fits best. Just be sure it fits tightly to the crossmember.
Bracing in the crossmember does wonders for tightening up the steering feel. I even welded in the crossmember to the other frame rail.(sometimes I just like welding stuff together)
 
1-ton said:
My Lincoln Mig welder instructions do say that flux core is what should be used for thicker gauge steel welding, in order to get max penetration out of that little 140 AMP Mig. Because I am not the most experienced welder in the world, I was not sure what method I should use.

Thanks again Chris for that Dana-60 crossover unit you sold me. I wire wheeled, de-greased, and painted all the parts. The whole set-up looks like new again. I also got all new grease zirk fittings and grease boots for it as well. I am lucky to have snagged that cross-over unit from you because several times in the past when an ORD Dana-60 cross-over unit hit the used parts board, it was gone in a few hours. Now I will have a cross-over set up for half the money it would have cost me if I had bought it all brand new from ORD. You are correct about the frame...luckily, it has no cracks in it because my 1991 V3500 crew cab never went off road much in it's life.

P.S Also, I got that engine and transmission you saw in the my truck now.
Click to expand...

The motor is in?
 
ChrisPerry said:
I weld the side plate on first. Then the bottom one gets welded wherever it fits best. Just be sure it fits tightly to the crossmember.
Bracing in the crossmember does wonders for tightening up the steering feel. I even welded in the crossmember to the other frame rail.(sometimes I just like welding stuff together)
Click to expand...

My plan of attack is going to be:

1. Stitch weld the frame side bracket where it meets the frame only (like you said).
2. Stitch weld the under side bracket where it meets the frame only.
3. Stitch weld the under side and side bracket where they butt-up to each other last.

What do you think?
 
Phil513 said:
The motor is in?
Click to expand...

Yes sir it is. I dropped both the engine and trans in together as a unit. Yesterday I put the transfer case in, drive shafts, connected all shift linkage, and hooked up all transmission sensors to the wiring harness. Next weekend I start on hooking up all the engine sensor wiring harness, and connecting all the fuel lines.
 
1-ton said:
Yes sir it is. I dropped both the engine and trans in together as a unit. Yesterday I put the transfer case in, drive shafts, connected all shift linkage, and hooked up all transmission sensors to the wiring harness. Next weekend I start on hooking up all the engine sensor wiring harness, and connecting all the fuel lines.
Click to expand...


That's great news, congrats! I'll have to swing by one of these days.
 
Phil513 said:
That's great news, congrats! I'll have to swing by one of these days.
Click to expand...

I am shooting for spring to have my truck running with all the bugs worked out, so I can go on one of those jeep club trail rides you go on.
 
1-ton said:
I am shooting for spring to have my truck running with all the bugs worked out, so I can go on one of those jeep club trail rides you go on.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome! They are a lot of fun, and don't beat on the rig.
 
first make sure there is no cracks on the frame .

when I do them the side plate gets first and also I bolt it on with the 4 holes nice and tight to simulate the box bolted to it .

then as said I run the stich pattern in the kits directions.

then I last put the bottom repair section on .
 
sweetk30 said:
first make sure there is no cracks on the frame .

when I do them the side plate gets first and also I bolt it on with the 4 holes nice and tight to simulate the box bolted to it .

then as said I run the stich pattern in the kits directions.

then I last put the bottom repair section on .
Click to expand...

This is how mine went also. Although after bolting it to the frame it still needed a little persuasion to lay flat
 
Yours only needed a little persuasion? Mine took a rosebud and a sledge to fit nicely.
 
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