Steering Column Short?

[crdpoker]

Hi Guys,

85 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic w/ 6.2 Diesel. I've got the classic sloppy tilt wheel problem, which never really bothered me until last week, when the truck started randomly stalling on me. I finally discovered that whenever the sloppy wheel was pushed into the 6-9 oclock range, it kills the engine, complete with lights and warning buzzer.

Is this most likely a short in the ignition cylinder, or some wires inside the column. Assuming it is the cylinder, is it worth the work to tear the entire thing apart, replace the cylinder, and try to tighten 2 of the bolts to eliminate the slop? I also have problems with the turn signal switch (high beams are hard to turn on unless wheel is all the way up, and signal lever is slightly bent)

I might have found an identical complete column locally. Do you guys think it's worth it for me just to spend the 80 bucks and buy the used column, and change it all out in one shot?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[mudboggink5]

I think its worth it to swap it out, by the time you tare into yours and find the problem, you could have a fresh one installed.

 

[Currank5]

Save yourself the trouble and swap the whole column. I tried the tighten the two bolts method and the improvement was minimal and i ended up swapping the column later. Swapping the whole column was easier than tearing one apart.

 

[lister]

the 73-87 tilt columns are notorious for working themselves loose, you can tighten it up but there is probably a wire pinched somewhere in there. If you don't have much experience tearing apart a column i would say the best way is to swap it out but you will probably have the problem again in time, I have heard of guys using locktight on the bolts that work loose in a tilt.

 

[OregonSlimMF]

Wow old thread. Well I'm new and literally waited on approval just because I needed to figure this out. I have an 85 k10 Suburban suffering the same annoying issue. I can tear into the column and basically restore it if I must and if I do that I'm gonna use the strongest lock tight I can so it'll never loosen again. However I wouldn't mind an updated steering column and wheel but I don't really know which years are compatible and can be swapped with little extra thought with it. The brights and everything including the cruise control are on the column so rewiring shouldn't be to necessary or so I hope. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks a lot and thanks for having me here.

 

[imiceman44]

Wow old thread. Well I'm new and literally waited on approval just because I needed to figure this out. I have an 85 k10 Suburban suffering the same annoying issue. I can tear into the column and basically restore it if I must and if I do that I'm gonna use the strongest lock tight I can so it'll never loosen again. However I wouldn't mind an updated steering column and wheel but I don't really know which years are compatible and can be swapped with little extra thought with it. The brights and everything including the cruise control are on the column so rewiring shouldn't be to necessary or so I hope. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks a lot and thanks for having me here.

First, you have an 85 so 85 to 91 should be the same I believe 84 was the last year of the wiper switch on the dash.
And if the play is minimal a rebuild is great, if it's excessive and has been for a long time, there might be some parts damaged and worn and might cost too much to fix properly so a replacement in that case is better

 

[OregonSlimMF]

I suppose its excessive to a degree. I bought it from a guy in 2012 who had got it at an auction the year before intending to make it his camouflaged hunting rig. He hit hard times and let it sit. I had just moved back to the west coast from Florida and got it for 500. Aside from changing the fluids and fixing the taillights and new tires I did nothing else. Drove her for a year with it dying when turning but only if I hit a decent bump while doing it. It wasn't constantly happening but often enough to still suck. I parked it after blowing a tire when i ran over a broken sprinkler pipe in a field on a friend's farm in 2013. I had 2 other vehicles by then so I let it sit and of course life happens and after some moves and kids the fam and I move back and I go get my Burb from my friends farm. While battling bees about who owns it I noticed the wires and all that essential stuff looks really good after sitting in the field for 7yrs and didnt appear to have a chew mark anywhere from mice or rats. The interior is another story though. After the battle is won with the bees I run home and get a battery and 5gallons of gas. Hook it up and poured the fuel in gave the carb a spritz of go juice and She turned over and started up the first try. Well I got the field dwelling rust bucket home but the column is the only issue that keeps popping up besides weak wiper motor but the steering its a problem. I like driving off the beaten path. I will be headed to get a column next week. I appreciate the feedback. Have a good day. Sorry to ramble. Hope the story wasn't to bad.

 

[ZooMad75]

The stalling issue isn't from a short in the ignition switch normally. It's usually because the column is so sloppy the wobble is moving the rod that runs down to the ignition switch at the base of the column. Sometimes if they are loose enough you can't get them to start without holding the upper part in the right place that the rod is pulling on the switch correctly. Get the column shored up and the rod/ignition switch will stop causing the stalling.

 

[diesel4me]

I had 2 trucks with loose tilt colums...not loose enough to stall the engine like the one described,but enough to be annoying and I didn't like the fact they may have come apart while driving.

Since I rarely ever used the tilt feature,and there were few tilt colums in salvage yards locally,but plenty of tight "regular" ones,I opted to swap the tilt out for a non-tilt version ,and sold the tilt ones at swap meets for $50 as cores..

One friends truck with a tilt colum loosened up more than once on him and his did start shutting off the ignition switch enough to kill it during turns --he just rigged a toggle switch under the dash to give power to the coil so it'd stay running !..

 

[imiceman44]

The stalling issue isn't from a short in the ignition switch normally. It's usually because the column is so sloppy the wobble is moving the rod that runs down to the ignition switch at the base of the column. Sometimes if they are loose enough you can't get them to start without holding the upper part in the right place that the rod is pulling on the switch correctly. Get the column shored up and the rod/ignition switch will stop causing the stalling.

Yep, that was happening to me in the suburban

 

[OregonSlimMF]

Interesting. I have tomorrow off. I will pull the column out and actually see where I stand after I pull what I can apart. I've notice everyone is just tightening the nut and bolts or what not and perhaps use locktight. I'm definitely gonna use some locktight myself but I'm gonna replace what nuts and bolts I can with new ones and if at all possible I can try and use the locking nuts where and if possible i can use them. If not I'll clean what ever and get all methodical with the locktight.
Damnit. I'm just typed all that and was gonna get some sleep since I worked a 12 last night but its only noon and I only work an 8 tonight. Well looks like I'm going outside to fiddle with her. I shall return with updates. Shouldnt take to long. (Famous Last Words)