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the parts store here had it but it was a lil pricey and would take 2 weeks to get, someone in the classifieds here had em for a good price also.....i ended up buying the ord kit, it fit and worked great..
I am working on a fix kit of my own that acually removes the cracked section and makes the frame thicker where the box bolts on and I am just looking what else is out on the market. any info would be helpful
There are a bunch of places that sell the weld-on brace (autofab etc.). I'm not sure who makes them, but they may all be made by the same place and distributed by others. Of course, they may be different too, mine fit like crap and it was not from ORD.
ya I have seen the stamped one I am working on one that would remove the cracked metal and replace it with a machined piece making the bolts go through a thicker piece would any one be interested ? I'm doing some market research
just going through a thicker piece is not going to save you from cracking, the problem is a few factors not just one. The frame shape, flex, material, maintenance and force applied on it is.
x2, you would have to be very careful not to just move the cracking to some other part of the frame. Also be careful of production variances from truck to truck with the "same" frame. Cutting out the cracked part of the frame and replacing that it would be a much bigger project than fixing the cracks and welding a plate over the top. Having said all that, a better solution to the problem is always welcome.
FWIW, mine cracked at the upper front and lower rear mounting hole - almost identical to the cracks in the write-up here.
With the stamped weld-on brace, I had to trim both pieces to clear the stock bumper bracket and front spring hanger, I had to oval three of the four mounting holes slightly because the pattern was too small in both directions (the holes were closer together than the frame and steering box holes), the bend on the lower piece was in the wrong spot so I had to bend the poo out of it, and I still had big gaps to try and fill with the welder, and the lower plate ended up very close to my 4WD pitman arm so I had to clearance it a bit to get full steering travel, and I had to relocate two clamps for the brakelines. Not an install friendly solution IMHO.
timewise it 's not that bad when we did mine from the time I pulled into my buddies shop till i pulled out was about 5 hours to do it and that was building the plate as we went