Steering gear box install

[Mastiff]

I'm getting ready to install my new gear box. I want to make sure I don't do anything stupid. First off, I remember a recent thread about ruining things during the first startup due to fluid starvation, but I can't remember the details. Is this mostly related to pumps, not gears? I assume it's safe to operate the gear box itself without fluid in it (like for finding the middle).

The next thing is how to make sure everything is lined up right. I plan to try to center the gear box with it on the bench, then I can center the steering wheel and attach the steering shaft without rotating anything.

I'm doing crossover now too, so the trick is to get the draglink right. I can start with the wheels straight, and hopefully keep them that way if I attach and torque the new steering arm with the old draglink still connected. The column lock should keep it all in place.

Does this make sense? Any other tips for getting this right the first time?

By the way, anyone successfully found a pitman arm nut at the hardware store? The gear box didn't come with one. ORD instructions say it's a 7/8-14 thin nut.

 

[45acpJr]

The only help I can offer is the nut, Ballistic Fab stocks them, just run down and pick one up.

 

[diesel4me]

I doubt I'd find one in any of the hardware stores here..even if they did have a 7/8" nut,it would be normal height and probably not the right pitch thread..
Steering parts are often "weird" sizes and threads--like tie rod ends often using 11/16" threads of uncommon pitch..
I'd head to the salvage yard if I needed a pitman shaft nut..if you want new,it will probably have to come from a dealer,unless a company like Dorman is making them now..maybe McMaster-Carr or some other place might have one,but its likely a "special" nut..

 

[sweetk30]

search hydroboost and my screen name .

I have covered the best blead out steps . if you don't have hydroboost ignore that info .

turn box all you want no fluid if just lineing up stuff is fine.

 

[The Pumpkinator]

I've recently installed crossover steering on my D44 3/4 ton setup, I pretty much just labeled the pump hoses and threw everything together.

As for bleeding I followed the included PSC instructions. Pretty straight forward.

For lining everything up I installed the box, hooked up the steering shaft (its keyed btw) and loosely installed the Pittman arm, the sector shaft is keyed as well but you can clock the Pittman arm in 90 degree increments on a 2wd box. the trick was to have the steering wheel centered and have the Pittman arm pointing towards the rear of the vehicle/ parallel with the frame, that gives you your alignment between the wheel and the box.

The drag link was simple, have the front tires pointing straight and equally adjust the TREs one each end to where they line up with the hole on the Pittman arm and the hole on the steering arm, bolt it up, tighten up the jam nuts and drive it around the block to see if any more adjustment is needed.

You may be able to get away with loosening up the jam nuts and rotating the entire drag link for easy adjustment, but you may find out that the bent part of the drag link will hit the engine cross member when rotating it. I just lifted up the front of my truck with a jack so that the suspension would droop in the front end enough for the drag link to clear the cross member when rotating it.

Also last but not least, don't do any hardcore wheeling without a steering box brace kit!!!

This is the result from a new PSC steering box, crossover steering, and 37s coming down the back side of Hells Gate on Hells Revenge in Moab....