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steering line routing

anwat

anwat

1/2 ton status
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Went in to get some new hydraulic lines crimped for my steering, and was talking to the guy about the routing of the lines. Got me to thinking about why the lines are all the way down to the middle of the axle then back. Seems unnecessary, but until I get some input I'm going to hold off on making that judgement. Everyone I've seen has it run along the axle like mine is now, I'm thinking there is a reason for this? So I'm going to throw it out: Anyone give me a reason not to route the lines like the yellow marker indicates? There's plenty of slack for suspension travel, and I don't see any interference with any moving parts. I'll just change the fittings to 45* and run the hoses directly up to the steering box.

Only possible issue I could see is some sort of debris getting tangled into the lines when I'm driving, but I don't really see any more of a risk running them straight down as along the axle, then up and back along the axle...something is just as likely to get tangled in there and there's a lot more hose to get damaged the way it is now.

IMG_0759.JPG

IMG_0760.JPG
 
OK, but it seems like if I need 8" of slack to get to full droop, I need 8" . Is it because by going down the track bar it is closer to the center of the axle and it doesn't have as far to drop? If both front tires go to full droop, it doesn't look like I'd have enough slack in the line the way it is to make it...although I can't see any way I'd have both sides in full droop...not like I'm going to be jumping an 8000lb k5. I looked at the build thread for Animal, but can't see how you routed the lines since the photos are dead.
 
anwat said:
OK, but it seems like if I need 8" of slack to get to full droop, I need 8" . Is it because by going down the track bar it is closer to the center of the axle and it doesn't have as far to drop? If both front tires go to full droop, it doesn't look like I'd have enough slack in the line the way it is to make it...although I can't see any way I'd have both sides in full droop...not like I'm going to be jumping an 8000lb k5. I looked at the build thread for Animal, but can't see how you routed the lines since the photos are dead.
Click to expand...

It is because of articulation. If they ran down the drivers side with enough length for full droop on that side, they would possibly kink at full stuff. And with them clamped to the panhard bar, it droops with the axle. Whoever did it was correct in installing like that.

And I jump a 7000lb k5. And I am a picture whore.

Photo Jul 06, 7 43 12 AM.jpg
 
You, sir, are a badass. That's not a little jump, either. With a winch, no less! I have to ask, did you break anything on landing?
Point taken on the hose routing, I'll replace it the way it was, but with crimped ends. Save the old ones for spares.

Is that jump in New Mexico? Looks a little green, but other than that it looks like where I grew up.
 
RAM Off Road park in Colorado Springs. Slight bend in the stock non trussed 10 bolt. Replaced it with a truss added and bent that one 8 years ago. Still in the truck.
 
Close, couple hundred miles...so, what kind of coilovers were you running at that point? I've got issues with mine: The springs rub all over the shock body, which I'm told is from low quality springs. Tons of noise when I turn, springs popping and groaning. Both front shocks are now leaking a little, one of the rears is leaking a lot. Don't know what kind of springs are on there, but since the shocks are FOA, I'm sure they aren't the best. Just ordered two Fox 7/8" shaft coilovers with Eibach springs. Hoping I didn't waste my money.
 
I am running 2.5"x18" Sway-A-Way coileovers, Eibach and Fox coils and 3"x18" Sway-A-Way triple bypass at all 4 corners. $" air bumps also.

FOA are gunk. Leaks are normal. Fox are top of the line but they could not help me when I built mine 14 years ago. They did not have valving for over axle locations on heavy trucks.
 
ktmoutfront said:
I am running 2.5"x18" Sway-A-Way coileovers, Eibach and Fox coils and 3"x18" Sway-A-Way triple bypass at all 4 corners. $" air bumps also.

FOA are gunk. Leaks are normal. Fox are top of the line but they could not help me when I built mine 14 years ago. They did not have valving for over axle locations on heavy trucks.
Click to expand...

The place I bought them from are revalving them for free, and they are pretty well respected in the racing world, so hopefully I'll be OK. I've got mine strapped at 16". You're running the coilovers and the triple bypasses together? I'd like to see how you have that setup..are there photos on here somewhere? I'm also directly above the axle, but in my case its a 60.
 
thanks...That's quite a rig. I'll have to read through that thread tonight...I'll bet it answers a lot of questions I've got. Never even considered putting a shock and a coilover on the same corner, but it makes sense. My rig started it's life in the so cal (Inyo county) desert as a rescue truck also, but it was a suburban at that time.
 
My coil covers do not have valving in them. The bypasses do all of the dampening. The coilovers are just expensive coil carriers.
 
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