MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Lol I hate removing the tires, I never knew how heavy 37's were until I tried to lift one to put it on the truck. I guess I need to remove them anyways and make sure nothing is lose.
CK5
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Steering problem
- Thread starter MetalMulishaMarcus
- Start date
Lol I hate removing the tires, I never knew how heavy 37's were until I tried to lift one to put it on the truck. I guess I need to remove them anyways and make sure nothing is lose.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Just do what I do and smack the tierod on the rocks till it bends in, giving you more toe.
Ive actually been flowing you're build thread, I've been getting a lot of ideas from you and a few others on here. I don't think my tie rod will bend any (not saying I'm going to bend it lol) because of the metal L stock the guy welded to the front of the tie rod..so it wouldn't bend.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
So I'm gonna start with the steering box and see if I can't get that to where it's suppose to be and then try and look at the alignment and deal with that. I'm having a couple of my wisdom teeth out on Thursday soo my truck will have to wait till the weekend after.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
I hope I can get this thing back on the road soon. I miss driving it :'(
Go buy two 4' levels from Home Depot (or where ever)
Have tires pointed straight. They can be on the ground.
Have buddy A place level against tire A, halfway up and parallel to the ground.
You hold second level against tire B, same position.
Measure from the end of one level to the end of the other level. Note the amount, should be 80something.
Measure from the other end of the level to the second level. Note the amount, again should be very close to the first amount.
These two measurements are taken about 48" from each other. (the length of the level, which I like to use all of it)
The measurement taken in front of the tires should be 1/8-1/4" smaller than the measurement taken from rear of the tire. (leading side VS. trailing side of rotation) I tend to run about 3/16" Toe In, tires pointing inward while looking AT the truck.
You don't have to pull the tires, just try to measure on a flat part of the tire, like between shoulder lugs if you have them. When you are done, either keep the levels or return them
To check camber and caster, you will need an angle finder. I like the small cube digital ones. But for now, toe is the easiest to check.
Have tires pointed straight. They can be on the ground.
Have buddy A place level against tire A, halfway up and parallel to the ground.
You hold second level against tire B, same position.
Measure from the end of one level to the end of the other level. Note the amount, should be 80something.
Measure from the other end of the level to the second level. Note the amount, again should be very close to the first amount.
These two measurements are taken about 48" from each other. (the length of the level, which I like to use all of it)
The measurement taken in front of the tires should be 1/8-1/4" smaller than the measurement taken from rear of the tire. (leading side VS. trailing side of rotation) I tend to run about 3/16" Toe In, tires pointing inward while looking AT the truck.
You don't have to pull the tires, just try to measure on a flat part of the tire, like between shoulder lugs if you have them. When you are done, either keep the levels or return them
To check camber and caster, you will need an angle finder. I like the small cube digital ones. But for now, toe is the easiest to check.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Go buy two 4' levels from Home Depot (or where ever)
Have tires pointed straight. They can be on the ground.
Have buddy A place level against tire A, halfway up and parallel to the ground.
You hold second level against tire B, same position.
Measure from the end of one level to the end of the other level. Note the amount, should be 80something.
Measure from the other end of the level to the second level. Note the amount, again should be very close to the first amount.
These two measurements are taken about 48" from each other. (the length of the level, which I like to use all of it)
The measurement taken in front of the tires should be 1/8-1/4" smaller than the measurement taken from rear of the tire. (leading side VS. trailing side of rotation) I tend to run about 3/16" Toe In, tires pointing inward while looking AT the truck.
You don't have to pull the tires, just try to measure on a flat part of the tire, like between shoulder lugs if you have them. When you are done, either keep the levels or return them
To check camber and caster, you will need an angle finder. I like the small cube digital ones. But for now, toe is the easiest to check.
Good info. I will have to try that.
I don't think I'll be able to adjust the toe in since I'm maxed out on that. I guess I'll be looking at a new tie rod sooner then later.
If you want it somewhat accurate take your wheels off, the lettering on the sidewall is enough to throw off your measurement. Also, with the wheels off you can use lugnuts to hold the straight edges, no need for a friend.
why 48" apart when he has a 37" tire?
Go buy two 4' levels from Home Depot (or where ever)
Have tires pointed straight. They can be on the ground.
Have buddy A place level against tire A, halfway up and parallel to the ground.
You hold second level against tire B, same position.
Measure from the end of one level to the end of the other level. Note the amount, should be 80something.
Measure from the other end of the level to the second level. Note the amount, again should be very close to the first amount.
These two measurements are taken about 48" from each other. (the length of the level, which I like to use all of it)
The measurement taken in front of the tires should be 1/8-1/4" smaller than the measurement taken from rear of the tire. (leading side VS. trailing side of rotation) I tend to run about 3/16" Toe In, tires pointing inward while looking AT the truck.
You don't have to pull the tires, just try to measure on a flat part of the tire, like between shoulder lugs if you have them. When you are done, either keep the levels or return them
To check camber and caster, you will need an angle finder. I like the small cube digital ones. But for now, toe is the easiest to check.
why 48" apart when he has a 37" tire?
That would align it to 48" tires. That would be toe in like a mfer.
Look
I just offer what I know
I've aligned the truck like this twice and it works. Like telling someone to use 20g airsoft BBs, pound in each tire, instead of weights. Just trust me
If you give someone a number, does that number work for all size tires? I dunno
, but if you say 48" apart on the level, well that works for all tires.
I just offer what I know
I've aligned the truck like this twice and it works. Like telling someone to use 20g airsoft BBs, pound in each tire, instead of weights. Just trust me
If you give someone a number, does that number work for all size tires? I dunno
, but if you say 48" apart on the level, well that works for all tires.
Just giving you shit @K85 Octane 
but you want to measure 18.5" in front and behind the center of the axle in his case (based on 37" tire).
but you want to measure 18.5" in front and behind the center of the axle in his case (based on 37" tire).
Correct, from the lug nuts out to the line of sight measurement it should be 15.25" on both front and behind. hahahahaha
or just 48 G dammit
or just 48 G dammit
My tires ARE 37" and I've used 3/16" for my 38s as well.
That 3/16 will go untouched after I put my 40s on too
That 3/16 will go untouched after I put my 40s on too
My tires ARE 37" and I've used 3/16" for my 38s as well.
That 3/16 will go untouched after I put my 40s on too
your rubber, not mine
I do not know if that funky looking steering link with the heim joints came with the hydro assist deal, but it looks like to me that steering link, and the steering box is all "Jacked-up" to me. You will never get that set up to work without it being a rattle trap. You need to go to a place like Off Road Design, and get a good steering link and steering box, in order for it to ever work right. You get what you pay for.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Lol you guys got me all confused. What numbers should I be looking for when I measure? And I'm measuring in front of the tire and behind the tire correct (with the tire off though)?
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Its a regular tie rod with heims on it. He just welded a "brace" to it just to give it protection from rocks. It also gave him a some what of a flat surface to weld on for the hydro assist. Everything went together like it should.
Half of my steering came from off road design.
You're essentially correct, I got what I paid for I guess..at least I though it was a good deal.
Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear already set up for disk brakes. 4.10 gears in both front and rear. The 14 bolt has a Detroit Locker and the front is welded. He gave me complete crossover steering (I'm only using part of what he gave me) and hydro assist..all for 1800 bucks...I feel I did good...I'm also in CA btw were just The front is going for $2000.
Yes front and back of the axle, most will say 1/8” of toe in.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
Ok cool. Thank you.
